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just finished an 8 kg sugar neutral with Still spirits classic 8 yeast

Have done a few batches with this , but in mid summer

This time I did it in May , and the temperature was a bit low , so I used a heat belt , 26 degrees C

I normally use a 1/2 bag of yeast ( as cost saving )and all is fine

it took ages to finish , or maybe nearly , yield is good @ 3.9 litres @ 80% of good clean spirit

If I do another batch of spirit in Autumn , and use a full bag of yeast will I get a better and higher yield in a quicker time

or do as I normally and do the run in November/December , I as it is to hot to make beer

The brew started as normal and because I think yeast multiplies quickly the half yeast should have been OK

I’m not familiar with the Still Spirits yeast so I can’t comment on its viability. But, I use baker’s yeast for my sugar washes. The key point is that sugar alone doesn’t have nutrients for the yeast which is especially necessary during the budding (reproduction) phase. Of course, oxygen is needed during budding too, so if you’re relying on multiplication of the cells at the start, you’ll need a healthy dose of O2 to start. And this is critical if you’re under-pitching the yeast.

The temperature of the ferment can affect the rate of attenuation, that is...how fast the ferment drives to completion. But ferment temperature can also produce off flavors if the yeast is driven too hard. Therefore, “low & slow” may be beneficial for a clean product.

Now, under-pitching yeast can be beneficial as the yeast will reproduce up to cell count necessary to ferment your wash...provided the conditions are met for the budding process, that is (as I’ve already stated)...adequate aeration and sufficient nutrients. The budding will generate fresh, healthy yeast cells which will give you a vigorous ferment with a strong drive to full attenuation. And healthy yeast will also produce a good tasting ferment for a fine finished spirit.

I prefer to under-pitch instead of over pitching for this reason. It helps negate dry yeast which may be older and less viable (shelf life aged).

Also, be sure to properly rehydrate dry yeast if you’re using dry yeast. Pitching the fragile dry yeast into a high sucrose sugar solution will cause excessive osmotic pressures on the cell walls and that can cause them to implode. Rehydrating the dry yeast in plain warm water (body temperature) will minimize destruction of cells vulnerable to the pressure on cell walls.

In summary, I don’t know if I’ve helped with your questions, but I’ve tried to relate some experience. Good luck in the future with your endeavors.
ss

Good advice on rehydrating the dry yeast

the internet site is

https://stillspirits.com/collections/co ... urbo-yeast" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I just have to wonder why after 12 years on this forum and over 300 posts you still choose to use turbo yeasts?
Each to thier own I guess.

Saltbush Bill wrote:I just have to wonder why after 12 years on this forum and over 300 posts you still choose to use turbo yeasts?
Each to thier own I guess.

I must not have read the alternatives

still ( to speak of ) I am willing to change

can you give me the right direction or best posts to go to

WE make bread at home in a bread machine , and I have a box of yeast and some nutrients

I have made a lot of bread from sour dough that I made myself

The more I type the worse it gets

most of my time was brewing Beer

There are a number of recipes suitable for neutral in the tried and proven section of the forum.
None of them use turbo yeast as its known to make for an inferior spirit. All of those recipes suggest suitable yeasts to use.

The thing that makes our tried and true recipes work so well is that they use about half the sugar that your Turbo does . This makes a much cleaner fermentation that finishes in a reasonable time .

But with half the sugar per wash this will get you scratching your head ? ... you’ll be wondering why all these fellas are only getting half the alcohol per fermenter .

It actually causes a mind shift in the way you ferment and the way you distill . But the results will blow your mind compared to what you have been making with Turbo’s

So one thing I found was that I needed to make a double fermentation . So instead of one with 8kg of sugar in it , I now whack down two with 4kg sugar in each .... so for not much extra effort, I’m still fermenting to get the same amount of Alcohol.

Now another mind shift is from doing one and done reflux runs on a turbo , I strip the two fermenters and then run them through the reflux still . OK , the stripping takes a bit more time but running the reflux still with a higher charge gives yet another level of quality product .

More bother , maybe , but no way I’d go back to drinking Turbo

I assume this would be the sugar wash to try

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=6782

That is one.....there are more to choose from if you look, Goos Kale Wash and Birdwatchers are two more that spring to mind.

There is and evolution of sugar washes and all try to eliminate the addition of process additives and do a basic wash that anyone can do from the grocers stock.

Rod wrote:
most of my time was brewing Beer

It sounds from your early post that you do "distil ferments at a different temperature from your "Beer one"

If you use the same yeasts and temperatures you use for beer making - that'll do you well.

If you just "Make beer" without ANY hops in there, you'll be making a "White Whiskey" when you distil it - but you need to add nutrients when you're using less "ingredient heavy sugar washes" to make "neutral"

Saltbush Bill wrote:I just have to wonder why after 12 years on this forum and over 300 posts you still choose to use turbo yeasts?
Each to thier own I guess.

+1

Saltbush Bill wrote:That is one.....there are more to choose from if you look, Goos Kale Wash and Birdwatchers are two more that spring to mind.

You should also google Teddy's Fast Fermenting Vodka for an alternative