Home Distiller

I'm sad to admit that electrical just blows my mind. I've been reading this section for days on how to build a 240v controller and just can't wrap my head around it entirety. I really need some clarification please my brain has turned to mush on this.

I know I want a gfci. I have a general contractor friend who will help me wire a spa panel. So far I believe it needs to be:
-4 prong plug to my electric clothes dryer 30 Amp outlet (I rent, so I don't want to hardwire)
-spa panel with gfci
-receptacle for controller box

But I'm having a hard time with this controller box. I really don't want to die or fry something important. I am just having a hard time understanding all of these internal parts and not sure what does what. I'm ordering a 16 gallon milk can, how do I ground the electronics to element and can? I see lots of people grounding their keg and I don't want to screw to milk can. If I bought the controller, this one with 4 prong plug and low density 5500 element would run about $300. Could I build this substantially cheaper?
https://moonshinedistiller.com/5500w-he ... -kit-240v/

So, I think know some parts I need, and some I'm not sure about. Does this look accurate? Let me know what I am missing or if I got any of the science wrong please. Tried to list in order.

4 prong plug (plug into spa panel receptacle)
10 gauge cord @ 4'

Controller enclosure

On/off rocker switch @ 240v
Solid state relay @ 240v 30 amps
Potentiometer @ 240v 30 amps <-- this is essentially the dial to control? What's the difference between this and SSVR?
30 Amp analog ammeter
Heatsink, thermal paste, 240v fan
Proper gauge wiring for internals

10 gauge cord @ 4'
Element guard kit to protect wiring
5500 watt low density squiggly element 2" triclamp

Sounds like you have most everything you'll need.

A couple of points:

Your GFCI will suffice for an on/off switch.
For the SSR, consider going with a 40a model. 30a while sufficient is close to operating at the 80% continuous operation suggested limit.
For the potentiometer, these are usually rated in K ohms. 550k being regular for an SSR in this process.
Last, if you're pulling 4 wire (hot1, hot2, neutral, ground) you can just use a 120v fan (hot1, neutral) no problem.

Expat wrote:Sounds like you have most everything you'll need.

A couple of points:

Your GFCI will suffice for an on/off switch.
For the SSR, consider going with a 40a model. 30a while sufficient is close to operating at the 80% continuous operation suggested limit.
For the potentiometer, these are usually rated in K ohms. 550k being regular for an SSR in this process.
Last, if you're pulling 4 wire (hot1, hot2, neutral, ground) you can just use a 120v fan (hot1, neutral) no problem.

Awesome thank you for the reply. All of that makes some sense to me and with what I know now plus that I can get something together soon I hope! How about the grounding of the boiler, are these elements grounded or do I need to screw a ground to the boiler? (I'd rather not)

konatown wrote:How about the grounding of the boiler, are these elements grounded or do I need to screw a ground to the boiler? (I'd rather not)

It is adviseable to bond the boiler. If your element is attached using T/C ferrules and clamp, the element housing will bond to the boiler through the T/C joint. So, you simply need to ground to the element housing.

Better be safe...we don’t want you get electrocuted.
ss

still_stirrin wrote:

konatown wrote:How about the grounding of the boiler, are these elements grounded or do I need to screw a ground to the boiler? (I'd rather not)

It is adviseable to bond the boiler. If your element is attached using T/C ferrules and clamp, the element housing will bond to the boiler through the T/C joint. So, you simply need to ground to the element housing.

Better be safe...we don’t want you get electrocuted.
ss

Thanks, I want to live to enjoy my booze.
I was thinking the clamp housing might be the connection I need, so I will make sure the element is grounded. I want to have it all connected by means of plugs, so it is simple to disassemble and clean etc.

It might be cheaper to replace your dryer breaker with a GFCI breaker instead of the spa panel, those can be pricey!

Windswept wrote:It might be cheaper to replace your dryer breaker with a GFCI breaker instead of the spa panel, those can be pricey!

Only thing is I rent, so I don't want to change the panel, and also would like to bring it along with me when I move.
I still need to research but will probably just build a 60 amp gfci breaker in a separate box and mount it on the wall in the laundry room, and run the controller from it a few feet around the corner.

Something is a little off. I think you want a SSVR (solid state voltage regulator) not a SSR (solid state relay). They get confused easily, SSVR controls voltage based on the potentiometer input (resistance). The SSR just turns things on and off, like a light switch. The potentiometer does not need to handle 240v @ 30amps, it only needs to provide a resistance to the SSVR which correlates to how much voltage gets through to the element. On ebay and Amazon you can pick up the two combined together (SSVR and potentiometer--sometime even a cooling fan), but it sounds like you are getting them separately. Also the resistance of the potentiometer matters, so make sure you get one with a range of resistance that matches the needs of the SSVR.

If you are doing a simple boil control via SSVR, you do not need a SSR.

Stay Thirsty, JW

konatown wrote:Controller enclosure

On/off rocker switch @ 240v
Solid state relay @ 240v 30 amps
Potentiometer @ 240v 30 amps <-- this is essentially the dial to control? What's the difference between this and SSVR?
30 Amp analog ammeter
Heatsink, thermal paste, 240v fan
Proper gauge wiring for internals

10 gauge cord @ 4'
Element guard kit to protect wiring
5500 watt low density squiggly element 2" triclamp

Windswept wrote:It might be cheaper to replace your dryer breaker with a GFCI breaker instead of the spa panel, those can be pricey!

Not necessarily. A 30 amp GFCI breaker for my panel was $350. A 50 amp spa panel with GFCI breaker was $60. Spa panels have gone up but can still be gotten under $100 at most any home store. Plus as mentioned they can serve as the power switch saving a few bucks there.

Konatown, why not just buy the kit from stilldragon? They have all the parts, and instructions to build. Might be a few dollars more than ebay, but the parts will match the pictures in the instructions.
https://stilldragon.com/index.php/large ... r-kit.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

That Still Dragon kit is excellent, but doesn't come with a volt/amp meter. Those can be had for cheap on Amazon or eBay. That's what I did and it all works great.

If I'm not mistaken, isn't generally recommended to NOT flip a breaker on & off often? I have been told that switching it on & off reduces its life. I sure wouldn't want to reduce the life of the expensive GFIC box. I want it to last as long as possible before having to replace anything.

For an on & off switch, I used a 40A rotary switch similar to what is shown on this pagae. It is my understanding that it is ideal to turn your potentiometer down to 0 prior to switching the controller off or unplugging it. Doing so reduces the load on the switch or the plug.

The mechanical action of the switch will have a finite life, yes, but I think that relative to usage at the hobby level it would be decades before it failed.

More common source of failure is environmental, particularly cleaning chemicals (e.g. pools/hot tub). If that's applicable to a still room, something is already very wrong.

Expat wrote:The mechanical action of the switch will have a finite life, yes, but I think that relative to usage at the hobby level it would be decades before it failed.

More common source of failure is environmental, particularly cleaning chemicals (e.g. pools/hot tub). If that's applicable to a still room, something is already very wrong.

Well that's good to know. I love shedding misinformation that has been stuck in my head for no good reason.

A guy I know, who does a lot of electrical work in privately owned properties that are rented out to restaurants, shops, etc... told me that. He said it drives him crazy when someone fiddles with and flips breaker on & off repeatedly (not even wired up or installed). He told me that reduces its life. I never knew it BS. I Googled a bit just now and everything I read says it is true. Most everything says that breakers can be flipped 10s of thousands of times before it fails where a breaker can only be tripped 1,000s of times before it fails.

Moving the potentiometer link to the other side of the middle pin will change clock or anti clockwise rotation for power up or down.
Placing the amp meter before the SSR will give total power SSR+element, placing the amp meter after the SSR and before element will only show element power.
Ensure you have a "Solid State Regulator" not a "Solid State Relay" the relay has a 3-30v power input where the regulator shows a resistor over pins 3 and 4.
The Earth is connected to any metallic object including case, element and Pot
The SSR is mounted on an aluminium heatsink that dissipates the heat.
An AC AMP meter has no input polarity.
you can use the digital Watt Power meter in place or alongside an amp meter

decoy wrote:Moving the potentiometer link to the other side of the middle pin will change clock or anti clockwise rotation for power up or down.
Placing the amp meter before the SSR will give total power SSR+element, placing the amp meter after the SSR and before element will only show element power.
Ensure you have a "Solid State Regulator" not a "Solid State Relay" the relay has a 3-30v power input where the regulator shows a resistor over pins 3 and 4.
The Earth is connected to any metallic object including case, element and Pot
The SSR is mounted on an aluminium heatsink that dissipates the heat.
An AC AMP meter has no input polarity.
you can use the digital Watt Power meter in place or alongside an amp meter

SSVR3.jpg

Thanks!

I have a 4 prong dryer cord, and 10/3 cord to hook up to my element.
Main question being, I'll have two wires going to element plus a ground, but I'll have 4 wires coming from dryer cord to ssvr. Where does the 4th wire go, that's the line 2 hot, correct? Do they both attach to the single ssvr input?

This is the kit I got. It says ssr but hopefully they mean ssvr to control the heat up and down.
http://moonshinedistiller.com/distillat ... oller-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

konatown wrote: I have a 4 prong dryer cord, and 10/3 cord to hook up to my element.
Main question being, I'll have two wires going to element plus a ground, but I'll have 4 wires coming from dryer cord to ssvr. Where does the 4th wire go, that's the line 2 hot, correct? Do they both attach to the single ssvr input?

This is the kit I got. It says ssr but hopefully they mean ssvr to control the heat up and down.
http://moonshinedistiller.com/distillat ... oller-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

If you're in the US, 4-prong dryer cords will probably have green, white, red, black. Green is ground. White is neutral. Red and Black are both opposite phases of hot that combine to give you 240V.

For that kit you probably won't use the neutral one. You'll use red, black, green coming from the dryer cord and ignore the white one, I think.

Be careful.

konatown wrote:

decoy wrote:Moving the potentiometer link to the other side of the middle pin will change clock or anti clockwise rotation for power up or down.
Placing the amp meter before the SSR will give total power SSR+element, placing the amp meter after the SSR and before element will only show element power.
Ensure you have a "Solid State Regulator" not a "Solid State Relay" the relay has a 3-30v power input where the regulator shows a resistor over pins 3 and 4.
The Earth is connected to any metallic object including case, element and Pot
The SSR is mounted on an aluminium heatsink that dissipates the heat.
An AC AMP meter has no input polarity.
you can use the digital Watt Power meter in place or alongside an amp meter

The attachment SSVR3.jpg is no longer available

Thanks!

I have a 4 prong dryer cord, and 10/3 cord to hook up to my element.
Main question being, I'll have two wires going to element plus a ground, but I'll have 4 wires coming from dryer cord to ssvr. Where does the 4th wire go, that's the line 2 hot, correct? Do they both attach to the single ssvr input?

This is the kit I got. It says ssr but hopefully they mean ssvr to control the heat up and down.
http://moonshinedistiller.com/distillat ... oller-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

They sold you that kit, but didn't include a wiring diagram? I would contact them ASAP and ask them simply email you a wiring diagram. It's really simple to wire up. It is not complicated at all.

The attached diagram doesn't include how to wire your amp meter though.

I would shop around for an element guard kit. It appears that kit you purchased is pretty bare bones and doesn't account for covering the bare 220V connections. Either of these will attach directly to a 2" TriClamp you should have installed/welded/soldered to your keg/boiler. Some links below:
Still Dragon Element Guard Kit $59
Brewers Hardware Element Guard $59
Brew Hardware Element Guard Kit $36