Home Distiller

Please excuse my writing style. This review is incomplete but can still help some people.

The trader is Dibosh. They trade only in homebrew products. My order came under a week to Australia. Trader declared it as STEEL PIPES. I chose the option with copper mesh but I don’t recommend buying copper mesh from this trader. There are ZERO instructions included with the product.

Semi assembled still looks like this

Copper mesh is thin and does not fill the pipe completely. They are also covered in some oily substance. These two complaints are common as can be seen from most other buyers. Other traders give you more copper for this much price.

I dipped all the parts in hot water + dishwashing liquid. Oil came out and floated on top after few hours. You can see this in the photos. There is substantial oil so don’t skip this step. I rinsed the parts and then soaked the in hot water dish washing liquid again.


You can see oil on the tissues here.



I used my beer bottle brush to clean all the parts from inside.


I made a big mistake here. I dropped the pipe with digital thermometer in hot water. I was able to take it out, open up the PCB etc, wash in fresh water and then dried it using a hair dryer. It was working OK. I may buy a spare soon.
Later, I rolled up a small piece of scotch brite, dipped it in dishwashing liquid and forced it through all the holes of the condenser and dephelgmator using a copper tube.


This seller normally ships the largest pipe with 1.5” on one side and 2” on another. I requested them to send the pipe with both ends as 2”.

As the copper rolls were very thin, I added my own copper mesh and made one roll out of three strips sent by Dibosh. It is that thin. I was able to breathe through tube without any problem.
I assembled the still and then poured boiling water down it few times to clean it up. I got burnt by hot water in this process slightly. As I still don’t have the pipes, pump, 2.5” to 2” reducer, I can only run it in few weeks.

Steel parts look good. Thermometer is accurate. Still is very hideable.

If someone wants to order this then they should look for dibosh store
35L/60L Home brewed distiller New Tubular Exchanger Distiller Moonlight Alcohol machine with copper net distillation tower
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/EaPSUoDw
There are few more stores there. Distillarus (now shutdown it seems). Distillex is another specialised one.
In case posting links is not allowed then please let me know

On my insistence, Dibosh has supplied some instructions. They are very incomplete and don't explain how to use the two different pipes.

Hi charcoal

I have a similar set up. I have found that running with just one cooling line is easier.

I run through the product condenser first (long one) bottom as inlet output from the top then to the bottom of the reflux condenser and out the top back to the reservoir.

I personally find this the easiest way and pre warmed water in the reflux condenser makes running a CM still more manageable. Your mileage may vary hope this helps in someway.

Lee

Why would you want to run warmer water into the Dephlegmator?
How do you adjust the rate of water separately to the Dephlegmator that way?

Without separate control you're missing out on a lot of functionality. Such as starting under reflux to pull foreshots and heads then killing reflux to run in pot still mode to collect hearts for flavored spirits or to run a bit of reflux for lighter spirits that are a bit more pure.

How would you use it in that configuration to do fast strip runs with no reflux?

Hi Cayars

Why would you want to run warmer water into the Dephlegmator?

I use warm water as the adjustments on the needle valve are easier (larger)

How do you adjust the rate of water separately to the Dephlegmator that way?

I don't again it's easier it's like running one larger condenser rather than 2 shorter ones.


Without separate control you're missing out on a lot of functionality. Such as starting under reflux to pull foreshots and heads then killing reflux to run in pot still mode to collect hearts for flavored spirits or to run a bit of reflux for lighter spirits that are a bit more pure.

You can just adjust the water flow the same way to achieve all of the above.

How would you use it in that configuration to do fast strip runs with no reflux?

It's a modular system to do strip runs I remove the coloum and RC.


None of the above answers are meant to be smart ass it's just the easiest way to answer and apologies if comes across that way. It's not the only way but the way I find easiest.

Lee

Interesting.
Can you elaborate what you mean by "You can just adjust the water flow the same way to achieve all of the above"

What I mean by that is how would you start out under reflux to compress heads, then remove reflux for a more typical pot still run or less reflux? Basically less to no water to the dephlegmator but normal flow to the condenser. Do you have a Y adapter with a needle valve between the condensers and dephlegmator to direct flow?

Manc wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2019 11:41 am Hi charcoal

I have a similar set up. I have found that running with just one cooling line is easier.

I run through the product condenser first (long one) bottom as inlet output from the top then to the bottom of the reflux condenser and out the top back to the reservoir.

I personally find this the easiest way and pre warmed water in the reflux condenser makes running a CM still more manageable. Your mileage may vary hope this helps in someway.

Lee

Good to know that you have a similar setup. I am still waiting for the other parts to come.
What is the ABV you are getting from yours?

Hi charcoal

The abv will depend on your packing and height of coloum. I personally run with spp it's been a while since I run 2 inch coloum but I got 95% + if ran slowly.
The best addition to a CM still in my opinion is power management makes balancing your still so much easier.

Hope that's some help

Lee

cayars wrote:Interesting.
Can you elaborate what you mean by "You can just adjust the water flow the same way to achieve all of the above"

What I mean by that is how would you start out under reflux to compress heads, then remove reflux for a more typical pot still run or less reflux? Basically less to no water to the dephlegmator but normal flow to the condenser. Do you have a Y adapter with a needle valve between the condensers and dephlegmator to direct flow?

Hi

If your water flow is slow enough just to knock down the vapour the water should be hot enough in the RC to create none or little reflux. I don't personally run that way but see no reason why I couldn't.

Lee

You're missing out on control doing that. How would you pull out heads using reflux but then drop reflux or only use a little bit for something like a pot still run? How would you do a fast strip run?

You're going to want to control the water used for reflux separately.

Hi Cayars

I believe I just answered that question

I don't run that way through choice. Personally I feel that running a strip run or pot still mode through packing is counter productive and cause unnecessary cleaning.

I can't see how control is lost can I suggest you try it. What kind of still do you use?

Lee

Lee

It's all good Lee. I probably don't understand your setup or how you run it.

To answer your question, I've got pot with 1 or 2 thumpers/retorts, reflux (CM and VM) and a flutes (4 plates per size). I've got 3" and 4" flutes each with 4 plates (8 plates total if combined which I've never ran this way). Boilers currently from 5 to 15.5 gallons, now looking at 26 gallon in the next month. 2, 3 & 4" columns for reflux. Got a bit of variety to try stuff and experiment. Part of the hobby I really like.

I'm just one guy with an opinion. Many a people I hold in high regards do things very differently from me and make fine spirits I'm sure. Many ways to accomplish similar goals.

Generally when I'm 2" reflux I can do one and done, but on 3" or 4" plates or pot stilling I like to strip first to get more ABV into the boiler which makes cuts easier as I get more jars out and more jars means it's easier to cut/blend (for me)

Maybe I'm not understanding your setup. Do you have a valve of any type between your PC and RC?
In my typical setups I run a steady flow through the PC but will adjust the RC (reflux) based on what I'm trying to do or accomplish.

Unless I have a puke (rare these days) I don't clean my still. When I'm done for the day I'll distill some water to clean things out and call it a day. On my next run (strip or spirit) I'll throw away a healthy amount of "foreshots" which also clean out the still. I do however "hand wash" my boiler between runs on the 5 gallons since I can but not on my kegs since I can't hand clean them inside.

Hi Cayars

Sounds like you have a nice setup with plenty of options.

No valve between the PC and RC. The RC is a 200 mm shotgun condenser so maybe that's why warmer water helps it's very efficient. I find now that most of my adjustments now are done by the power controller rather than the needle valve it's just easier. Give it a try you might like it

Regarding makinq neutral I find that strip runs first and then load the boiler with 30%/40% low wines is not only easier but also saves time.


Lee

Hi Lee,

All I am interested in Neutral/Vodka. So, would you still suggest me do a stripping and then a final spirit run?

Also, what is the power controller you use. I have a 1400 watt hot plate as a heater.

charcoal wrote:Hi Lee,

All I am interested in Neutral/Vodka. So, would you still suggest me do a stripping and then a final spirit run?

Also, what is the power controller you use. I have a 1400 watt hot plate as a heater.

Hi charcoal

I do strip runs first as it takes 3 1/2 hours to strip about 7 hours for a full reflux so I save 1 run every 4 and a strip run is less hands on.

I feel 1400w maybe a little under powered depending on your boiler size. And you may wish to add an extra pipe and packing below your RC do help get more reflux. Also check your hotplate doesn't cycle on and off.

Here's the power regulator I have

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 0707182420

But one of these are easier

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3388875665

Hope that is useful and your part arrives soon look forward to hearing about your successes.

Lee

Hi
My boiler is 20 l. I guess my hot plate is a thermostat linked in and is on off type. I was able to boil some wash in last time. Will check more tonight and let you know.

Hi

1400w should be ok on 20l the on/off cycling will be a problem when you come to refluxing. I've heard of people bypassing the switch there should be some info on here or perhaps someone can help.

A power controller will help and worth the small investment.

Lee

Dibosh sells a set with the controller + Sensor here. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32944669781.html

Inkbord sells this controller which looks like your setup but with a temp sensor. https://www.amazon.com.au/Inkbird-Pre-w ... 078H2738K/

I am not sure where to put the sensor for this inkbird product. I can tape it to the boiler body or maybe hang it in boiler vapour. The boiler has two holes. I can insert this probe and seal it using flour paste for now.

Keep in mind it's upper maximum rated use is 2400W(240V).

My hot plate is 900 + 1400. I will run only one heater so 2400w is more than enough.

Hi charcoal

That's not what you want. You can't control a still by temperature as it will rise as the alcohol is depleted. All you can control is the power input difference between a hard boil and slow boil. That's over simplifying there's loads of threads on here about controling a wash by temperature. Here's one from Google search.

viewtopic.php?t=16635

Don't know if you have read crankys spoonfeeding but it's worth a read.

What you want is a voltage regulator.

Hope that helps

Lee

So what am I checking when changing the voltage? Nominal voltage here is 240v.

I have a analog thermometer that will fit in the boiler vapour area and few meat digital thermometers that I need to somehow seal before I can send the probe in the vapour area.

BTW, reading Cranky's post now.

Hi

Controlling the voltage input is to help control the reflux.

On a CM still it can be fiddly to adjust the needle valve on full power (depends on your boiler size and heating supply) by also adjusting the power input to a slower boil ( for want of a better description) it can make balancing the reflux easier.

After you have run your still a few times you will be able to dial in easily it's just a matter of trial and error.

The way I run mine is it's a 3kw internal heating element in a 55 litre boiler and a pond pump from a 400 litre reservoir.

I heat up on full power when mine heats up it over powers the RC I then turn down the power to get full reflux and after 10 minutes then turn up the power to get my draw off speed. I'm not saying it's the only way or the best way but it works for me.

If you want to know how much voltage your drawing the only way I know of is an Amp meter.

Hope that makes sense and crankys spoon feeding going well.

Lee

Hi again

You don't really need thermometers but they can be of help once you get use to using your still. I personally have one in the boiler mash so I know where I am in the heat up and one in the vapour path after RC it gives me an idea of where I am but they are there to just help as every thermometer I've had reads differently.

Lee

My 2" to 2.5" tri clamp reducer came. It was covered in grease as expected. You can see that in the tissue.

Finish is quite good and the seller is Homebrewing---Distillation Store
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/3085032

It came with two end caps. One is shown in the image above. They are quite useful.

I am waiting for my PTFE gaskets to come. I have silicon gaskets for the time being.

A very similar reflux still is being sold by another trader (Distillex) on Aliexpress. Distillex's condensers look cleaner than what I have.



Anyway, I did my strip run yesterday and my spirit run today. It was very slow and tiring. I was suprised to see so much blackish water in the pot after spirit run.

Initially, I ran both condensers in series but later moved them on different valves

Congrats on your first run it gets quicker and easier with experience.

Lee

charcoal wrote: ↑Thu Dec 26, 2019 11:04 pm A very similar reflux still is being sold by another trader (Distillex) on Aliexpress. Distillex's condensers look cleaner than what I have.

Congrats on your run.

What do you mean "look cleaner"? You referring to the liquor out port or something else?

cayars wrote: ↑Fri Dec 27, 2019 2:27 pm

charcoal wrote: ↑Thu Dec 26, 2019 11:04 pm A very similar reflux still is being sold by another trader (Distillex) on Aliexpress. Distillex's condensers look cleaner than what I have.

Congrats on your run.

What do you mean "look cleaner"? You referring to the liquor out port or something else?

In Dibosh, the welding is fairly smooth. In Distillex, it is made by some other process and maybe easier to clean.