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Posted: **Wed Feb 12, 2020 7:37 pm**

Hey guys. I’m not much of a handyman so was looking for pretty much a plug and go type of electric element and controller. Trying to make a decent all grain whiskey, my first few attempts haven’t been great. Not that heating was the issue but just due to convenience if I could go electric I could practice more.

I have a 15 gallon brewhaus kettle. It has two one inch NPI fittings (in addition to the one I’m using for a drain). I have an easily accessible dryer plug in, in the breaker box the switch says it’s 30 amps.

Problem is everything I find is for a different type of fitting, or if it is for NPI it’s for 120 volts (isn’t the dryer 240?)

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Posted: **Wed Feb 12, 2020 10:33 pm**

There are some excellent and easy to follow threads here covering just what you need. Many include diagrams on how to put together a simple ssr box that will happily do what you want to accomplish. Stick with a simple design with an analog ammeter, not digital and you won’t go wrong.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 4:54 am**

Electric wiring is beyond my capabilities but I guess I might have to make myself learn if that’s the only option. Thanks.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:28 am**

I have the same kettle set up with two 1500 W bayonet elements. While it is slower to heat up it is adequate for most of the runs I make. It is typically set up with one element on a controller and the other directly plugged in to the wall.

If you are uncomfortable building your own controller, you can buy them ready-made from places like MileHi Distilling for under $150. I built mine for probably $50 and it works well, but it sure ain’t pretty.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:55 am**

So I thought I would want the 220V dual controller, but that one is $900. The one for $145 is 120V and single element. Am I missing something? Told you I’m no handyman. Thanks so much.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:56 am**

I may not have been clear enough. The Brewhaus kettles are set up with the 1 inch nipples to receive their 120 V, 1500 W elements. So mine is running two 120 V, 1500 W elements. I only control one of the elements. The other is running the full 1500Watts. Wow this is not optimum, it suits my purposes until I can get around to building a duel element controller.

For a 15 gallon kettle 3000 W at 120 V is adequate. However it would certainly be nicer to have 5500 W at 240 V. Unfortunately, reconfiguring Brewhaus kettle will require some surgery. You need to decide what will work for you.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:07 am**

Try Barley and Hops YouTube videos he explains how to build a controller and builds them for individuals for a price; I think but not sure. He’s a very nice individual and very helpful. His email address and phone number is in the videos.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:25 am**

What’s your budget? A welder might be able to bore out that fitting and weld on a 2” tc fitting but it will cost you. With a 2” tc (or 1.5” tc depending on the element housing you find), you have more flexibility and the room for a 5500w lwd element. Building a box will still cost some money and the first one will be frustrating at times but it is extremely rewarding. If you promise to read through a few build threads first I have no doubt we will be happy to help you through some hang ups if you decide to post your build progress here (or better, on a new thread in the proper corner of the forum).

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:54 am**

Thanks so much, guys; this is extremely helpful. Sorry this was the wrong spot to post, it was the only electric forum I saw but maybe I missed one since I’m looking on my phone. Appreciate all the input.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 9:38 am**

My bad, I don't know why I thought this was in the welcome center, this is in fact in the right place

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 9:46 am**

rbsc wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:55 am So I thought I would want the 220V dual controller, but that one is $900. The one for $145 is 120V and single element. Am I missing something? Told you I’m no handyman. Thanks so much.

Those prices are pretty high, but I admit that there is a fair amount of labor with constructing a controller from scratch. Each part of the construction is very easy, but a relatively large amount of easy work. Drilling, cutting holes, cutting wires, stripping wires and making connections. $500 for a simple 220V controller is pretty high when the parts cost approx $80.

I didn't really understand basic electrical work, but had a need for some controllers. Prices for fully assembled controllers were crazy so I just learned some basic concepts and now I've built 4 different types of controllers. If you are interested in building your own, it helps to choose a controller, there's wiring diagrams here too and then sit down with someone who is knowledgeable and they can explain how it works. Once you have an understanding of how basic wiring works, you'll be able to build most any kind of controller you want. It really isn't that complicated.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 10:25 am**

Slow42 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:07 am Try Barley and Hops YouTube videos he explains how to build a controller and builds them for individuals for a price; I think but not sure. He’s a very nice individual and very helpful. His email address and phone number is in the videos.

Yep, try George. He can build you one if you don't want to tackle it yourself. I have built a pid controller and a pulse wave modulator both from his videos. They both work great.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:20 pm**

Thanks, guys. Watching his videos now, went back a step and started with his intro to electric heating one. Also started reading the parent site again since I wasn’t focused on electric the first time through. Glad I did as I never would have thought of setting up a GFCI on the dryer circuit.

Posted: **Mon Apr 20, 2020 7:30 am**

Sorry to resurrect this post but I got a follow up. I had put this on my Amazon wish list to look at later, but my wife ordered it as a surprise. It would require a plug conversion but other than that does it look like it would work for my purposes? Hope it’s allowed to post an Amazon link. Thanks, guys.

240v Electric Brew Pot/Electric Still Boil Controller (4 Prong L14-30 Power Plug)

Posted: **Mon Apr 20, 2020 7:43 am**

Wow....$255 USD for a controller...seems expensive. But, you’ve got a great wife! Maybe you should have put a new truck on the “wish list”....?

Posted: **Mon Apr 20, 2020 11:32 am**

Oh, she can spend money. But she’s definitely not selfish!

Posted: **Wed Apr 22, 2020 11:14 am**

All right, I’m giving up on the 240. The GFCI cord was too expensive and I’m renting so can’t have one installed. I also got lazy and ordered everything. Bought a 120V controller from MileHi and two 120V 1500W elements from Brewhaus. My kitchen has two separate GFCI protected 15amp circuits. I ha e read on here that lots of people use two elements to get to boil then switch one off and control the remaining one for the run. So that’s what I settled on. I’m extremely safety conscious so I kept reading more and came across the comment posted below. Someone else was planning on the same thing, only difference is he was going to unplug a 240V after he was up to boil. Can someone explain to me what this means? The element I ordered doesn’t have an on/off switch, it’s just plug legs in or not and that’s it. Just don’t want to do something stupid here. Thanks again,

Oh, I definitely would not "unplug" this connection when you're ready to reduce heat. Have you ever seen an arc welder pushing 25A? That would scare the crap outa' me. Always use the breaker to power up and down. You should never plug a plug like this under load.

Please don't do that.

Posted: **Wed Apr 22, 2020 11:15 am**

Also, if I put my stainless kettle on a pizza stone and then some towels does that seem sufficient to protect a hardwood floor?

Posted: **Wed Apr 22, 2020 2:45 pm**

Wow.. at that price, I can build you one that would have an amp/volt meter plus temp probe meters, and still put still put 100 bucks in my pockets..

The one from Amazon at most 50$ for parts.. those controllers are really easy to build.. there mostly just time building..

Mars

Posted: **Wed Apr 22, 2020 7:25 pm**

rbsc wrote: ↑Wed Apr 22, 2020 11:15 am Also, if I put my stainless kettle on a pizza stone and then some towels does that seem sufficient to protect a hardwood floor?

Pizza stone is designed to hold heat, so probably the opposite of what you want. 6" of air would do better I think. Honestly I wouldn't still anywhere near my floors; high potential for water leaking, not to mention drips of high proof lol

Posted: **Wed Apr 22, 2020 7:37 pm**

rbsc wrote: ↑Wed Apr 22, 2020 11:14 am All right, I’m giving up on the 240. The GFCI cord was too expensive and I’m renting so can’t have one installed. I also got lazy and ordered everything. Bought a 120V controller from MileHi and two 120V 1500W elements from Brewhaus. My kitchen has two separate GFCI protected 15amp circuits. I ha e read on here that lots of people use two elements to get to boil then switch one off and control the remaining one for the run. So that’s what I settled on. I’m extremely safety conscious so I kept reading more and came across the comment posted below. Someone else was planning on the same thing, only difference is he was going to unplug a 240V after he was up to boil. Can someone explain to me what this means? The element I ordered doesn’t have an on/off switch, it’s just plug legs in or not and that’s it. Just don’t want to do something stupid here. Thanks again,

Oh, I definitely would not "unplug" this connection when you're ready to reduce heat. Have you ever seen an arc welder pushing 25A? That would scare the crap outa' me. Always use the breaker to power up and down. You should never plug a plug like this under load.

Please don't do that.

If the circuit you're using doesn't have a switch near your working area, then using the breaker is your best option.

Also remember what GCB3 said above. 3kw in 15g us slow so temper your expectations accordingly.

BTW, wouldn't bother listening to George. He might be popular but he's full of bad information and habits.

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