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I'm making plans for new all copper pot still. Currently I use worm in a 5 gal bucket on a 7 gal copper still and propane turkey fryer burner. Not sure of btu but wouldn't think it is a lot. It's cooled by a mountain spring running 50' x 3/4" pex pipe uphill roughly 15' of fall from end to end. Water is continuously flowing and 3/4" pipe is completely full.

With same spring - New build is 30 gal copper pot still, 10 gal thumper, 10 gal flake stand. I will be using wood barrels for thumper and flake stand, not sure if thermal value is important.

Now the piping is 1 inch pipe from lyne arm through the thumper and transition to 3/4" at worm. Using 3/4" soft copper for worm as well.

Now the idea is my new burner https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/king-k ... jet-burner. Will produce more heat and quadrupling my boiler capacity while only doubling my flake stand may be a problem but I may have a solution.

The 3/4" copper worm will have three 1/2" copper pipes soldered each a third away around the worm for support and spacing. The plan is use a soldered T fitting 1" from the capped off bottom on all vertical support and point the T's the same direction. At the top, connect all three 1/2" pipes together and connect my mountain spring water. It would create a whirlpool effect in the flake stand. And assure the cold water is introduced in the bottom. I haven't seen this particular design in my research. What do you think?

Psi per foot of rise is .433 x 15= 6.5 psi That isn't a lot of pressure but quite a bit of volume. May not have a whirlpool effect or benefit? Too much pressure would create a void of water in the center.

My experience with a flake stand is you want a temperature gradient.
Pump cold water in the bottom, let hot water overflow at the top. Adjust flow speed so the you have a nice gradient.
I guess a whirlpool may be counter productive and may cause huffing.
Since you have a continuous supply of cold water you shouldn't have issues with upscaling that boiler

I've never used a worm and flake stand so I tend to agree with what Corsaire is saying . From my own experience with different sorts of condensers and from what Ive read of others experiences a temperature gradient in the barrel will be of much more use. For one thing it will stop or at very worst minimise 'Huffing". Huffing is when your condenser sounds like a dog that's been chasing balls in the hot sun for to long, or a steam loco coming toward you .
If you put your ear close to the business end of a happy condenser it sounds like a gentle breeze in the trees shhhhhhhhhhhhwhooooooooooo!

When looking at burners, bear in mind a 20lb bottle can only give off around 70,000 btu and will freeze up (and reduce flow) if asked to do so when it is less than a 1/3 full

One of my winter issues lols

I may have to reduce flow to allow for the gradient. I have only seen steam once, it was when I had to carry water by the bucket. I have a liebeg and well water. But scared of burning my well pump up. I have been stilling in the woods and ferment at the house outside.

Good to know on the 20lb bottles. Size of flake stand and propane is to be mobile. Everything has to fit and be able to lift in a UTV. I never leave anything behind at still site. Choice of wood barrel is purely for aesthetics. I might pick another vessel for flake stand. Thanks for the input.