Potentiometer For 120V Controller

[NineInchNails]

I'm about to start putting together a 120V controller for a mini still using most of these Still Dragon parts, but something makes me second guess the potentiometer. Do I need to source a different potentiometer or will this one work?

[NineInchNails]

I found some topics that say 250K 1W for 120V and 500K 2W for 240V. I'm still searching for confirmation.

[pope]

What’s your budget? Consider an ssr and an auber instruments dspr unit. It’s a little more but you’ll spend less on the ssr than a psr also. It’s worth a look:

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=559

You get a ton of great features should you choose to use them. The latching relay (if you get the 400 model) can help you program in some safety override controls which are nice peace of mind.

I do tend to complicate things so that’s a grain of salt to my advice.

[Yummyrum]

While I agree with Pope ,

I think this proves the point that you need a lower value Pot on lower voltage :

SSR_VR pot value = Input Voltage

[StillerBoy]

I found some topics that say 250K 1W for 120V and 500K 2W for 240V. I'm still searching for confirmation.

I've used a 470K 2v pot in the past on a 120v setup, and it worked fine.. maybe just a little less adjustment vera a 250K but not enough to make a big difference.. the reason for the use of a 470K for 120v was that I wanted to upgrade to 240v in the future, and didn't want to purchase a 250K while getting the other parts to upgrade.. I ended up building a new controller from the ground up for 240v, and never changed anything on the 120v setup and it's still being used on a small 14L pot still..

Mars

[NineInchNails]

What’s your budget? Consider an ssr and an auber instruments dspr unit. It’s a little more but you’ll spend less on the ssr than a psr also. It’s worth a look:

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=559

You get a ton of great features should you choose to use them. The latching relay (if you get the 400 model) can help you program in some safety override controls which are nice peace of mind.

I do tend to complicate things so that’s a grain of salt to my advice.

Yes I do know of those. I considered it and I have built a few Auber PIDs before. I was thinking about going with just a simple and inexpensive variable controller, but since you brought it up ... I'll put together a total price list and compare the cost. I do like the idea of the option for RTD sensor and/or thermocouple option. It is handy to have like a 'PID' function as well as variable control in one small package. I might very well go with this setup now after you tempted me into it I have RTD sensors and Thermocouples so I'll probably install and wire up panel connectors for both.

[arentwejusthere]

I just finished up a controller build with 2 120v elements. One is controlled by this:

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=353

It was the most reasonably priced 40A SSVR I could find, and they had an option for the correct pot. Yummy is the one that turned me on to needing the correct one for running on 120v.

[NineInchNails]

I just finished up a controller build with 2 120v elements. One is controlled by this:

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=353

It was the most reasonably priced 40A SSVR I could find, and they had an option for the correct pot. Yummy is the one that turned me on to needing the correct one for running on 120v.

Yeah I really like Auber Instruments. They've really helped me out in the past. I needed something that they didn't have. They reached out to their manufacturer, found a solution, had it refined and began stocking what I needed. It worked flawlessly and they go out of their way to help you. I'll keep buying from them just so they can be a 'one stop shop'.

[arentwejusthere]

Couldn't agree more. They've been GREAT to me, as well.

[NineInchNails]

Pope ... darn it, now I had to tripple my budget Looks like I'm going to have to do an Auber Ezboil DSPR220 Controller build. Parts alone will put me just over $100, but it should be worth it.

I already have a perfect project box for it too. A simple SSRV with Pot would run me about $40 or so.

Auber Ezboil DSPR220 Controller $67.95
Auber 25A AC SSR $9.95
Auber External-Mount Heat Sink for 25A SSR (4"x3.5"x1.2") $11.99
Auber Thermal Pad For SSR $1.00
Auber Female Panel mount mini connector for K thermocouple $3.80
Auber K type thermocouple wire/extension wire with Teflon insulation $1.00
Auber Panel-mount connector for RTD Sensor $5.00
Auber High Temperature RTD Extension Cable $1.12
Auber Green 120V Indicator Light $3.45
Lowes Barrier Strip 8 Circuit 30A $7.28

Total $112.54

[Jack C]

Nineinchnail I also use and have used for the last 12 years parts supplied by Auberins. One thing I did learn is that the cost of the 40A ssr is only pennies more than the 25A. I swap between 4500 and 6500 watt elements and have never had any heat issues or failures with the 40A ssr. It is so cheap for that one little upgrade. Just my 2 cents.

[NineInchNails]

Nineinchnail I also use and have used for the last 12 years parts supplied by Auberins. One thing I did learn is that the cost of the 40A ssr is only pennies more than the 25A. I swap between 4500 and 6500 watt elements and have never had any heat issues or failures with the 40A ssr. It is so cheap for that one little upgrade. Just my 2 cents.

Good idea, I didn't even compare the cost. Thanks for noticing that! I'll do that for sure.

[NineInchNails]

I put in my Auber order so it shouldn't be long. I ended up choosing the [urlhttps://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=53]Auber DSPR300[/url], but selected the option for the relay so I could add an illuminated buzzer. I chose that one because I didn't want or need the options for 0.1F resolution, step mashing or advanced programming. I just wanted variable control, PID-like function and alarm outputs. I upgraded to the 40A SSR too.

[Jack C]

You will not regret the repeatability of that boil controller. If you keep notes on percent of power out put.

[NineInchNails]

You will not regret the repeatability of that boil controller. If you keep notes on percent of power out put.

Yes, I look forward to using this. I'm sure I'll get used to using a digital readout of %. I imagine it wouldn't be too difficult to determine the approx power input based on the readout if needed.

I just hope it's easy to control and switch back & forth from variable to PID-like function without a bunch of button pushing nonsense. I saw some videos on YouTube, but most of them were showing how to set up the other automated functions that I have no intentions of ever using.

[Jack C]

I have the one that is only a proportional controller, so cant comment on swapping between that and pid function. I can tell you that the percent power is a direct correlation to the input power at the element. I check between the percent out put and the reading on my ammeter and it is very close. Enjoy.

[NineInchNails]

Finished the controller.

I ended up not using the 22mm 120V indicator light. I thought I could connect it to the SSR's output, but I forgot that you can't do that. SSRs bleed a little bit of current through and causes the light to pulse. I had to replace it with a 22mm 12V LED indicator light and connect it to the low voltage side of the SSR. Now it works perfectly.

Turns out the EZboil isn't compatible with K-type Thermocouples, only RTD Sensors. I didn't find that out until after I purchased and installed the panel mount & thermocouple extension wire.

[NineInchNails]

This Auber EZboil is AMAZING. It impresses me way more than their PIDs Initially navigating the menu with the knob was confusing, but after fiddling with it along with following the instructions, it makes perfect sense.

There are sooooo many 'smart features' that I never would have thought of, but Auber certainly did. These smart features can be turned of or modified too.

The only thing I'm struggling with is the external buzzer alarm. I've gone through the instructions over & over, but cannot get my Relay 1 alarm to trigger the buzzer.

I am having a problem with the internal Relay 1 activating the buzzer. I triple checked the wiring and it appears to be fine. I tested all connections using a test light and it all checks out. It appears as though Relay 1 just isn’t functioning. I have attached the wiring diagram.

Relay 2 however functions perfectly and is activating the buzzer as it should. When I tested Relay 1, I had Alarm 2 off. When I tested Relay 2, I had Alarm 1 off.

Below is how I set Relay 1:
I put it in 'Mash Mode'.
I set the temp for 100F.
I set the 'Alarm High' for 2 degrees (when temp exceeds set temp by 2 degrees the alarm should activate).
I set Relay 1 for ‘Process Mode’
'Relay Logic to ‘RL_C’ normally open.
Relay 1 is set for 'Pulse’.
‘Alarm 1 High’ is turned on (alarm 2 off).
Pulse Length is set to sound off for 100 seconds.

Temp is set for 100F. Temp reaches 100F and it holds it perfectly! I poured in some hot water, the temp spikes to 105F. I hear a ‘click’ sound, the AL1 light on the front of the EZboil lights up, but external buzzer doesn't sound off.

It has to be the internal Relay 1 not making a proper contact.

[NineInchNails]

I set parameters for Relay 2 and it functions flawlessly with the buzzer. Relay 1 is still not functioning.

I checked the wiring and it is exactly as the Auber instructions.

I tested the buzzer by plugging it in directly. It sounded off.

I tested my wiring with a test light and I have power to the buzzer.

It appears that it must be the relay within the EZboil. I don't know what else it could be.

[pope]

I think the AL1 light and actually triggering an externally wired output are slightly different. I've encountered a few eccentricities that I pretty much blame on wrapping my own head around all the programming options. I'll have to pull up the programming packet and look through to think it over... other than Relay 1 giving you grief I'm glad you're really happy with the unit! As mentioned earlier, I think the repeatability and functionality of the EZboil is unparalleled for the cost. Plus the scalability is great, you can rewire into a 240v circuit, or keep the EZboil on 120 and have it control a 240v SSR on a separate breaker, or control two, or three, etc., or presumably control a 480v element in a commercial environment.

The relays are great too, I rigged a separate PID as a safety stop with a probe in my parrot, if the parrot goes past a certain temp that means something malfunctioned in the cooling line (either flow, kinked hose, etc), and it does a system override. You could also wire out of the box with a 12-4 wire to go out and back with the main power to the DSPR and put a remote emergency stop button somewhere just in case you had to shut down. There's really a ton of mods possible with the two relays and the controller working the way it does.

[NineInchNails]

Yeah Pope, I do believe this thing was a great investment.

I set both relays with the exact same settings. I have been playing with relay 2 and it works flawlessly with the buzzer. Relay 1 only lights up, clicks and the buzzer doesn't do squat. This may be a good thing actually. After playing with it ... I realize I probably should have bought the DSPR400 with relays that measures temp to 0.1 with more resolution to serve as a more accurate thermometer. If I have to send this back, I'll probably get that one to replace it. I don't think I'll be needing the 'step mashing' settings.

When I built this thing, I installed a thermocouple panel mount, but didn't realize it isn't compatible with K-Type Thermocouples. Well this panel mount could be utilized for exactly what you're talking about! The panel mount could be used to connect this box to another box with a 240V SSR with panel mount and 240V wires & plugs going through it. With the right size box, external heatsink, that would make a super compact unit! You totally have me thinking.

[OklahomaShiner]

Finished the controller.

I ended up not using the 22mm 120V indicator light. I thought I could connect it to the SSR's output, but I forgot that you can't do that. SSRs bleed a little bit of current through and causes the light to pulse. I had to replace it with a 22mm 12V LED indicator light and connect it to the low voltage side of the SSR. Now it works perfectly.

Turns out the EZboil isn't compatible with K-type Thermocouples, only RTD Sensors. I didn't find that out until after I purchased and installed the panel mount & thermocouple extension wire.01 EZboil.jpg02 EZboil.jpg03EZboil.jpg

Are you selling these?!? Cause I’d definitely buy one!