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Even though it requires higher wattage, boiler capacity & packing, I would prefer the speed from a larger column as it’s rare to find an 8-12 hour window during my time off. Over the years I’ve collected 2” and 4” materials intending to build a modular still. My intent was a keg boiler with a 4" opening going to a 4” column & tee and then reduce down to 2” for the elbow & shotgun condenser.

I would prefer the 4” x 48" column for reflux runs but has anyone successfully run a pot still with a 4” column?

Although I can get a more efficient height ratio from a 3" column, I'd rather use the 4" material I've already collected. Not trying to reinvent the wheel, just trying to save some $$ on the build. That said, I'd rather spend the cash than be totally frustrated with my equipment. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

A 4" pot still will only run as fast as the product condenser will handle. A 2" pot still will run just as fast/slow with same condenser.

acfixer69 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 14, 2021 2:42 pm A 4" pot still will only run as fast as the product condenser will handle. A 2" pot still will run just as fast/slow with same condenser.

+1
Just run a 2" pot still with your shotgun. last weekend, I stripped 18 gallons in two 9 gallon runs in 6.5 hours from the time I turned on the flame for the first run, to the time I drained the still of the 2nd run. Anything more that 3 inches in a pot still is pretty overkill on a keg boiler, and your limiting factor is still the ability to cool the vapor.

Edited to add that you should use a capped T off the riser, not a 90. In the event you decide later that you decide you want to make neutrals, it's an easy upgrade to a CCVM reflux column with the addition of a couple of spools and a reflux coil above the T.