Home Distiller

Hi there,

So far, I've been using a 15 gallon keg on propane.

I am considering going electric as its more practical and private, I am looking at the pro and con's of electric and what would be the necessary hardware require to properly fired up that volume of liquid.

Thanks

Look into the Related Electrical Accessories forum. There are many discussions (and recommendations) there.

When you do go to electric heated boiler, you’ll like it. Quieter, cleaner, and with better heat control. Consider the power availability you have too. Choices depend on whatcha’ got.
ss

From your profile, looks like you're from Canada. I'll assume that your electrical system is the same as in the US, idk. If so, I would recommend 2 phase 240V 30A electrical service - I use my dryer receptacle.

For hardware, you will need:
- Water heater element - up to 5500W, wavy ULWD.
- Hardware and tools for installing the element in your keg boiler.
- A power (voltage) controller and cables, ready made or build your own.

From Brewhardware.com, this a good kit for intalling the element into your boiler - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/2etc4s.htm. They also have a good selection of heating elements. This solution will allow you to easily remove the element for cleaning. The one in the link has a radiused surface designed for soldering it to the keg.

For any wiring you may need to do, use at least 10AWG stranded wire. Cables will need the same requirement and should be at least 3 wire (2 hots and a ground).

An alternative to 1 240V element would be to install 2 120V elements. Run one on a power controller and the other direct to a 120V receptacle. The two receptacles will need to be on seperate breakers. You may also need a different potentiometer (pot) in the controller to give a full range of control.

Most important - look for information on the forum. You should find lots of controller builds and other installation info.

Good luck with it and stay safe.

Posted with still_stirrin.

I started with electric but all those passed to electric have positive reports. The essential thing in any case is the heat source (for example electric element) and a potentiometer to adjust the heat source.

For example, my keg boiler is powered by two 4.5kW / 240 VAC elements that I run on 115 VAC circuits (separate circuits). I do it this way so I don’t need to rewire my still shed for 220 VAC power. And when running 2 circuits, the 4.5kW elements draw about 1125 watts each at full power.

The 4.5kW / 240 VAC element is an ultra low watt density (ULWD) element that has the most surface area, meaning the heat power is distributed over a larger element surface. The reduces the chances of a scorch due to local hot spots on the element. Running this element at half its rated voltage reduces the power to 1/4 of the rated power.

So, my boiler has 2 elements … more surface area to heat the wash, ie - ultra, ultra low watt density. Sure, it is a little slower getting to a rolling boil when compared to a 4.5kW or a 5.5kW element running on 220/240 VAC. But it does get to boil and when it does, my potstill will produce at about 3-1/2 to 4 liters per hour, which is fine for a strip run.

For a reflux run, I have a 1m tall 2” diameter glass marble packed column that feeds a LM reflux head. The two elements work just fine producing a high purity product at roughly 1-1/2 liters per hour.

Again, I suggest going to the Electrical forum and reading there a while. It should help you better understand 1) your requirements and 2) possible solutions for the requirements.
ss

Still_stirrin.. a curiosity ... Do you think a (normal, not low density) 380V element used with 220V voltage would give a secondary "low density" effect? It should have more length so I think it would be possible (I never used one at 380V) ....

I converted to electric this past year. My electric service is 240V 3 wire with a main 60A breaker. My line to my controller box is 4mm on a 50A breaker. My box is wired with a 10Kw SCR for stilling and a PID for brewing on 4mm wire through a 50A double pole earthlekage (our equivalent to a spa panel, i think) and 32A breaker to individual 32A outlet sockets that is further switched on and of individualy through 32A double pole isolators. I have an amp meter on the SCR and can use the thermocouple from the PID to monitor boiler temps, but my ears tell me as much i need to know.

I run a 50lt keg with 3.5Kw element and a 80lt boiler with a 4.5Kw element. The elements are installed with rigged triclamp fittings to enable easy disasembly when needed but it is just a nice to have. If you can get a 5.5Kw heater... some from USA brew shops aleady have triclamp fittings and ultra low density with wire isolation.

Cons:
Make sure your outlet and wirering can handle the amps drawn. Remember it is sustained draw over longer periods.

Put a fan in your controller box.

If you use standard water heating elemenst, heat up slower to avoid scorching and rig something to isolate your wirering to the element.

Ground everything proper!

If you live in South Africa you need to plan your runs around loadshedding (power interuptions to ease loads on the national power grid).

Pros:
More energy efficient. You can insulate your boiler more efficiently.
Less risk... even if you are used to brew and cook food on propane.
Better control... need a power controller and an amp meter helps a lot.
No watching the flame, you can concentrate on take off speed and collection.
You will not have to drive to collect gas on a Sunday.

Another data point for you. I run a 240v, 5500w element on a 30 amp circuit and it typically takes about 30-40 minutes to heat 10-12 gallons of wash in my insulated 16 gallon kettle. I run it at 100% for warm up, but mostly working with pretty clear sugar washes so far.

I have the Auber still controller with SSR (really fast on/off) and like it. Voltage controllers are cheaper but I like gadgets.

Amps=Watts/Volts so I'm pulling about 23 amps on that 30 amp circuit, which is a good place to be. Electric code in the US requires the circuit be rated for 125% of the heater's capacity and I think that's a good guideline, so while I could run a 6500w element, I wouldn't without upgrading the circuit.

I found the physical connection of the element to be the hardest part (mostly trying to find someone who would weld stainless ferrules on my smaller kettle.)

Good luck!

Depends a lot on cost.
I have some solar panels which help with the electricity cost.
I also have reticulated natural gas for the little still that I am not using at the moment...
A lot cheaper and handier than gas bottles.

In some places gas is cheaper, sometimes electricity.

Geoff

Place the elements as low as possible in the boiler so that you don't get caught out when you want to run a small charge.

NZChris wrote: ↑Wed Sep 08, 2021 11:19 pm Place the elements as low as possible in the boiler so that you don't get caught out when you want to run a small charge.

Good point! And, also be sure that you have charged your boiler before firing up the element. A dry element will burn out quickly.

Here’s a glimpse at a few different elements.
Lower watt density provides greater heat transfer area for a given input power. So, it will minimize concentrated “hot spots”.
ss

Thats a great post Still_stirrin