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I read the 10000 scr post here. It seems like most use a "4 wire" plug, which leads me to my question. Can I use a "3 wire" plug for a scr build? I know that I cant have a 120v circuit using the 3 wire configuration.

The 4 wire configuration is common for 240v with a GFCI. You should be running some sort GFI, since 220v @30a in a puddle is plenty enough to kill you completely. If your talking 120 you run a 3 wire plug on a GFI outlet, again the GFI is mandatory. 240v runs 2 hots, so will require a 4th wire to run GFI.

Ben wrote: ↑Tue Oct 26, 2021 7:10 am The 4 wire configuration is common for 240v with a GFCI. You should be running some sort GFI, since 220v @30a in a puddle is plenty enough to kill you completely. If your talking 120 you run a 3 wire plug on a GFI outlet, again the GFI is mandatory. 240v runs 2 hots, so will require a 4th wire to run GFI.

I dont have access to a 4 wire plug

I had the same problem, I ended up running a 30a GFCI breaker in a breakout box and a 4 pin from it. There are flying lead (inline) GFI interfaces, they are expensive, but likely a lot cheaper than hiring an electrician if you are not inclined. I ended up finding the breaker inexpensively and it allowed me to put the whole shop on a GFCI circuit so it worked out better for me.

All mine were 3 wire. Two hots and a ground. Probably safer with 4 wire, but all my plugs were 3 wire.

What element do you want to run?

You only need three wires if everything is running on 240.
One of my controllers runs fans, pump, mixer and 120 volt solenoids. This controller needs four wires because I need the neutral to run 120 volts. Another one of my controllers only control’s two elements and is only wired with three wires. If everything in your box is 240 volts all you need is three wires (2 hots and a ground)

Ben wrote: ↑Tue Oct 26, 2021 6:10 pm What element do you want to run?

5500w

Thank you for all your responses

I think something like this would be your best bet: https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/ ... BEEALw_wcB

You could also run a 240v 30A spa panel. Sometimes you can get them inexpensively on ebay, I don't see any listed now.

If you are electrically inclined you can make a portable breakout box with a GFCI breaker, a 3 prong inlet and a 4 prong outlet. The wiring of this is fairly straightforward. It won't be much less expensive than that pre-built inline thing after you figure in the cost of the breaker, box, plugs and a length of wire.

The 4th wire (neutral) in a 240v circuit is used to signal the GFI. If you run an inline GFI you can omit it and run a seperate 120v for your system

Will this be acceptable in a scr controller build with a 3 prong dryer plug?

Please anyone?

Yes, should be fine.

Ben wrote: ↑Thu Nov 18, 2021 1:34 pm Yes, should be fine.

This will add a gfci feature to a 3 wire 220 controller?

Yes, just grab a wiring diagram for a spa panel and use it to create your power circuit. There is a pretty comprehensive description on what is required here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum ... hp?t=28864

Ok I'm getting everything pieced together if I'm going to run let's say 30ft total (15ft from plug to controller + 15ft from controller to l6-30 element) will 10ga wire work? I will be using 1 5500w element.

bez wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:52 pm Ok I'm getting everything pieced together if I'm going to run let's say 30ft total (15ft from plug to controller + 15ft from controller to l6-30 element) will 10ga wire work? I will be using 1 5500w element.

I think 10ga is going to be to small. It will no doubt work for a short cycle. The 30 ft is short, but how far the plug from the breaker needs to be added plus the plug resistance can factor in and this will be a live wire all though the run.

You can use this chart based on length and amperage

10 awg should be fine. 5500w / 240v = 22.91A / 0.8 margin of safety = 28.64 A. As long as your total run is less than 50' you should have acceptable drop.

Ben wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 7:30 pm You can use this chart based on length and amperage


image.png

10 awg should be fine. 5500w / 240v = 22.91A / 0.8 margin of safety = 28.64 A

I guess it will only be 25ft (can't find a 30ft). My plan was to take 1 of these and cut it in half. Use the receptacle half to run from controller to element and use the other half and replace the plug with a dryer plug

If you are in the states you can go down to your local home depot or lowes, go to the big rack of wire in electrical. Get them to cut however many feet you need of 10/3 and/or 10/4 SJOOW. That cord looks like a good deal just because it has the two ends on it, the plugs themselves are a bit spendy.

Ben wrote: ↑Wed Dec 01, 2021 7:57 am If you are in the states you can go down to your local home depot or lowes, go to the big rack of wire in electrical. Get them to cut however many feet you need of 10/3 and/or 10/4 SJOOW. That cord looks like a good deal just because it has the two ends on it, the plugs themselves are a bit spendy.

Yes it's 2.30/ft at lowes figured this was a better cost option

Ben wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 7:30 pm You can use this chart based on length and amperage


image.png

10 awg should be fine. 5500w / 240v = 22.91A / 0.8 margin of safety = 28.64 A. As long as your total run is less than 50' you should have acceptable drop.

I agree with you about 10awg being sufficient. I would suggest the wire needs to be rated to carry the rating of the breaker which needs to be sized for the load. The breaker should trip before the wire melts down in case of a short to ground or other overload beyond what is planned.

All those weird letters on the cable mean things.

The Amazon stuff is sjtw:
S=service cord
J=junior (thinner jacket than S)
T= thermoplastic (will melt)
W=wet location

The by the foot mentioned is sjoow
Sj=same as above
No T= thermoset (won't melt)
O=oil resistant
Second O=higher temp oil resistant (60c?)
W=wet location.

Comparing sjtw to sjoow is like comparing a Volkswagen to a Mercedes. Sjtw by the foot will be a lot cheaper than sjoow by the foot.

All this really doesn't mean much unless you need the ratings. I like thermoset because a temporary overload won't melt the insulation and/or jacket even though it will affect ultimate life. The oil resistant comes with unspecified general chemical resistance, might hold up to ethanol better but not necessarily.

SOOWW is some tough stuff if you want cord you can beat with a hammer while you shoot a heat gun at it under water that's it.

Except for thermoplastic vs thermoset most people want normal flex cord. Sjt should be fine but don't compare the price to higher rated cord

Well this is my layout, the green light will let me know there is power to the box and the red light will turn on when I turn on the breaker on.

Started building it today, I still have the led indicator lights, cable glands and rubber feet ordered and will be here Monday then onto wiring it up. This is the 10/3 wire I ended up going with also, it worked out to be not so bad because they only had 2 rolls of it and I bought both but 1 if the rolls was oen and looked to be short (as if someone bought it cut a couple foot off and took it back) so they marked it down to $20.00 for that roll, when I got home I measured it and wasn't short at all actually just looked that way....

I have a couple of those same power controllers and they do work well but ensure to provide airflow. They seem to run warm. I use a small fan on my units and that works well.

I use the exact same SCR and have had great luck with it. I did notice when I first ran mine, my box got a little warm when running, so I did end up putting a 240>12VDC power supply in the box and mounting an inlet and outlet fan on my box. That has helped tremendously on inside temp.

Thank you I'll look at the converter now

Ok so I just made it simple and bought a 220v fan

Well that’s easier! Good find!