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Has anyone purchased the weld on top from mile hi to use their lids on a keg? I have been looking around at my different options and have came up with a couple of options. I have narrowed it down to 2 ways of doing this. I'm looking for the ease of doing the project (example if the "weld on top" is thinner material making it harder to weld etc). I was kind of thinking that welding on the ferrule's onto caps (i have a 2" column and about to purchase a 4" mile hi plate (flute) so i need 2 6" caps with 2 different size ferrule's) would be easier due to the caps being "flat" to the 2" and 4" ferrule's would be easier to weld.
1) buy the weld on top https://milehidistilling.com/product/we ... p-for-keg/
2) buy a 6" TC ferrule, 6" TC cap and a 2" TC ferrule to weld on to the 6" cap to attach my column to

I understand that a 6" gives nice access to the boiler to charge and clean. The otherside a 4" flute with a 2" ferule and triclamp fit a standard keg super easy and with no inconvenience.

Setsumi wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 6:29 am I understand that a 6" gives nice access to the boiler to charge and clean. The otherside a 4" flute with a 2" ferule and triclamp fit a standard keg super easy and with no inconvenience.

I have thought about that as well but didn't know if reducing down a 4" column to a 2" with a reducer would "choke" the flow. Also I think it would be nice to have an opening i can use to clean my boiler (both after I weld the drain and heater element ports to the keg and after using), I would also like to make it a "multi purpose" boiler for also making mashes in (not fermenting in, more of a mash tun). Its not that big of a cost to do this for me just the cost of the ferrule's and parts as I have my own tig welder so i don't have to pay for that service.

No flow choke, the outlet size is the outlet size.

When I built mine I did a 6" TC, then used a 6" to 4" reducer to mount the column. No issues welding. I would have done an 8" to 4", but the parts were not available and had no ETA. The 6" has been plenty to make cleaning a snap though; no regrets.

I added an extra 2" port on mine as well at another members behest, it has worked out. Works as a fill port so I can keep the thing assembled, if doing multiple runs, and a vent to accelerate cooling.

Add a drain/ball valve at the bottom if you can swing it and some legs as well, makes the emptying part a lot nicer.

Ben wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 6:46 am No flow choke, the outlet size is the outlet size.

When I built mine I did a 6" TC, then used a 6" to 4" reducer to mount the column. No issues welding. 1016210857.jpg0924210952.jpg

I would have done an 8" to 4", but the parts were not available and had no ETA. The 6" has been plenty to make cleaning a snap though; no regrets.

I added an extra 2" port on mine as well at another members behest, it has worked out. Works as a fill port so I can keep the thing assembled, if doing multiple runs, and a vent to accelerate cooling.

Add a drain/ball valve at the bottom if you can swing it and some legs as well, makes the emptying part a lot nicer.

Looks good! By "choking" I was meaning in the term of using a reducer to go from 4" (the size of the mile hi flute) to the 2" standard ferrule on the keg. As far as using 6" to 4" and 2" (for my 2 different columns) reducers would be more expensive than using the caps and buying a 2" and a 4" ferrule and welding them onto the 6" caps.



Essentially making my own of these reducers at a FRACTION of the price

A 4 inch ferule is plenty.....people ran 2 inch keg openings for years.
You rarely if ever need to get inside a keg to clean it.
People seem to be spending more and more on boiler builds each year.....often for little real benifit.

As SBB said... and Ben. The 2" inlet to a 4" flute/plater or even a 4" packed column works... has been the standard for many years. BUT there is merit in going bigger if you have the cash to spend. Will it make a better drink? I dont think so. But it may make certain things easier.

bez wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 6:14 am Has anyone purchased the weld on top from mile hi to use their lids on a keg? I have been looking around at my different options and have came up with a couple of options. I have narrowed it down to 2 ways of doing this. I'm looking for the ease of doing the project (example if the "weld on top" is thinner material making it harder to weld etc). I was kind of thinking that welding on the ferrule's onto caps (i have a 2" column and about to purchase a 4" mile hi plate (flute) so i need 2 6" caps with 2 different size ferrule's) would be easier due to the caps being "flat" to the 2" and 4" ferrule's would be easier to weld.
1) buy the weld on top https://milehidistilling.com/product/we ... p-for-keg/
2) buy a 6" TC ferrule, 6" TC cap and a 2" TC ferrule to weld on to the 6" cap to attach my column to

Buy a 4” to 2” Tri clamp adapter. You can use both your 2” column and your new 4” column.

For your heating element just use a 2” ferrule. Drill the hole slightly small and sneak up on the fit with a dye grinder / drill and a stone/ carbide bit. Silver solder it in and you are golden.

When you go this way, silver solder is pretty easy. Solder, flux and torch are cheap compared to big SS parts in the long run. and can be used repeatedly. It is less expensive and you will have done it yourself.

I drill and solder in 4” ferrules on top of keg. But I initially opted for “pull through” 2” ferrules for the elements. Needed to get someone’s skinny arm into the keg with a wrench. In hind site I would go as I recommended above.

Solder can be easily removed by you.

For cleaning your boiler. Rinse out spiders and BOIL.

Setsumi wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 12:17 pm As SBB said... and Ben. The 2" inlet to a 4" flute/plater or even a 4" packed column works... has been the standard for many years. BUT there is merit in going bigger if you have the cash to spend. Will it make a better drink? I dont think so. But it may make certain things easier.

The convenience and versatility gained from having a 6" ferrule welded to the top of my keg has been a game-changer. 4", 3" and 2" stills are easily connected along with the ease of cleaning. (Try removing a scorch with a 2" ferrule). I had a 4" ferrule TIG'd to a 6" cap, and purchased 4x3" and 3x2" sanitary reducers.

.

And if you turn the keg over first you can use the two inch thingy to connect a drain.

Geoff

The Baker wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:59 pm And if you turn the keg over first you can use the two inch thingy to connect a drain.

Geoff

I plan on doing that because my keg has a raised "star" stamped around the 2" port on the top. I'm gonna guess it has to do with making the top more rigid. So I'm gonna put a cap over that for now then put the 6" ferrule on the "bottom" of the keg.

bez wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 2021 1:30 pm

The Baker wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:59 pm And if you turn the keg over first you can use the two inch thingy to connect a drain.

Geoff

I plan on doing that because my keg has a raised "star" stamped around the 2" port on the top. I'm gonna guess it has to do with making the top more rigid. So I'm gonna put a cap over that for now then put the 6" ferrule on the "bottom" of the keg.

Flipping the keg is common and highly advantageous, old top becomes the new drain. Link in my sig if you want details on how I did mine.

Building your own cap converter also works well, definitely recommend if you have the tools. 2x3" shown.

I will be adding a drain port to the bottom of my keg because having a drain on the side is tedious.

I would add to the mix of opinions though, the advantage of having a separate filling port (I have a 4" port on the top of my keg, angled away from the original 2" one). Coupled with a bottom drain allowing you to completely empty the keg this means that you can empty and refill without touching your riser / column and condenser.

I know a guy who purchased one of those "KegMenter" arrangements with the 4" triclamp ferrule at the top. If you're a real big fella, the opening might be a bit snug on your forearm if you need to reach inside to scrub. He has no problems. I'd venture that a cheap 4" triclamp ferrule kit from one of the usual suppliers would suit your keg conversion well.

For installing the element, Bobby over at BrewHardware sells a bit of kit that allows you to pull-in a 1.5" or 2" ferrule through an appropriately sized pilot hole for a really nice solder joint. Either size will work for a normal water heater element. There's a thread over on Homebrewtalk.com that details the homemade solutions.

1.5" Triclamp kit: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ ... ol15tc.htm

ThomasBrewer wrote: ↑Tue Nov 16, 2021 12:13 pm I know a guy who purchased one of those "KegMenter" arrangements with the 4" triclamp ferrule at the top. If you're a real big fella, the opening might be a bit snug on your forearm if you need to reach inside to scrub. He has no problems. I'd venture that a cheap 4" triclamp ferrule kit from one of the usual suppliers would suit your keg conversion well.

For installing the element, Bobby over at BrewHardware sells a bit of kit that allows you to pull-in a 1.5" or 2" ferrule through an appropriately sized pilot hole for a really nice solder joint. Either size will work for a normal water heater element. There's a thread over on Homebrewtalk.com that details the homemade solutions.

1.5" Triclamp kit: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ ... ol15tc.htm

I looked at that tool but I'm not soldering my connections due to already having an ac/dc tig and mig welder at home plus I'm a welder at a fab shop so my build will be tig welded. For someone who doesn't have that ability or tools to tig weld that's a GREAT option. Also I do believe it's out of stock right now and they show/talk about a brew kettle or would guess a milk can boiler, I wasn't sure if it was rated for use on a keg. So I went with no weld fittings for my 8 gallon mile hi milk can to quickly and easily convert so I can at least have some fun while I'm building the keg boiler.

I think you will have success welding a ferule on top and making colum adapters from caps like you asked about. I did something similar. I had an 8" ferule welded on top and purchased one of these https://www.brewershardware.com/8-tri-c ... r-lid.html I was making a hybrid kettle/fermenter. That is I mostly boil wort in it and use it as a fermentor for larger batches. I can use the lid attachments I have on a conical on this lid too.

Has anyone tried attaching electric stove elements to the bottom exterior of a half barrel keg? I'm trying to figure out how to electrify my boiler without drilling holes, welding ferrules, worrying about exposed internal elements. I'm running a propane burner now, but between worrying about whether I have enough gas for a long run, and the escalating price of propane, electric is looking more and more attractive. I have 240V available in the barn where I run the still, and have ordered this controller:



This is what I'm looking at strapping on externally, maybe two of them to get me to 4200 watts.

To avoid the inconvenience and expense of LPG tanks, I bought a NG burner and quick-connect it to my outdoor kitchen gas line. Many homes built nowadays provide NG hookups to the backyard and garage for water heater, washer/dryer.

I would be curious to see how efficient a stove-top burner would be to heat a mash kettle/boiler. It would depend on the vessel size I imagine.

Twisted Brick wrote: ↑Wed Feb 16, 2022 10:17 am To avoid the inconvenience and expense of LPG tanks, I bought a NG burner and quick-connect it to my outdoor kitchen gas line. Many homes built nowadays provide NG hookups to the backyard and garage for water heater, washer/dryer.

I would be curious to see how efficient a stove-top burner would be to heat a mash kettle/boiler. It would depend on the vessel size I imagine.

I use the largest burner on our stove to heat up an 18L cookpot, and when I first started (oh so long ago ) I sat the keg on top of the hob... it wasn't very efficient but it did get me through the first few runs.

Doesn’t have to be pretty. Whatever it takes I always say!

FL Brewer wrote: ↑Wed Feb 16, 2022 9:49 am This is what I'm looking at strapping on externally, maybe two of them to get me to 4200 watts.
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Could certainly use stainless zip ties and a little bit of ingenuity.

Drilling one hole and soldering/brazing/welding a water heater element fitting on sounds a lot better than having red hot elements hanging out on the outside of the keg. And you will have quite a bit better heat transfer, those coils are flat... there is no flat surface on a keg.

Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna have to think about the heater element through the bottom/side of the keg solution. That's been discussed here, I'll look around for it starting with the rest of this thread.

Anybody use that controller? Says it's good for 5KW continuous, 10KW short periods. It's cheap enough that if it blows up on me I won't be too upset.

Should also have added that there's no gas utility here, I'm in a relatively sparsely populated area (for Florida), so can't just hook into the house gas.

Electric is a good way to go, don't sweat that part! I think that controller will be fine, and like you said if it blows up you aren't out much. Maybe get set up like that to get started then start working on building yourself a control box with one of the Auber still controls.

A 4 inch ferule is plenty.....people ran 2 inch keg openings for years.
You rarely if ever need to get inside a keg to clean it.
People seem to be spending more and more on boiler builds each year.....often for little real benifit.

Have to agree, I am using an unmodified stainless half barrel keg, and have no problem cleaning. I use a pressure washer and the wand has no problem fitting through the 2" port, and gets the bottom of the keg (the only part that really gets anything cooked on) squeaky clean.

There are some advantages to a larger ferrule. The big one is fabrication, you can't reach your hand and a grinder in a 4" opening. Being able to clean miscellaneous stuff out is also nice, especially if you are going to use your still as one of your vessels for all grain. Or maybe you come across a whole bunch of peaches and want to run on the pit and pulp. If you are going to have the ferrule welded on you may as well pony up for a 6 and a reducer.

To most people I recommend just using their keg boiler and they can always modify it in the future to make it fit their needs.

I found it would drive me nuts to not have a bottom drain. Having a fill port allows you to fill your still without having to break down your reflux column or pot riser/head/condenser. I always install a thermowell in my boilers so I can monitor heat-up. I install swiveling castors on all my keg boilers. Is any of this necessary? No, but it is very convenient for me.

I agree with Ben. I like being able to use a drill & mixing paddle to mix and a 6" ferrule allows for that while a 4" would not. I use my boilers for a lot of different things like proofing, dispensing/bottling, fermenting and collecting low wines from stripping runs. I've even seen people use their boiler as a large pressure cooker.

Found a helpful site on youtube may help others with converting keg





Below video see SHOW MORE has all the parts and links where to get them

Hope it helps converter's