Adding an element to copper pot still - unwelded or welded port?

[firsttimer]

Hi all. I’m running a 30L copper alembic pot still on a bayou LPG burner at the moment, works well but i’m always nervous about potential of vapour reaching naked flame.. Still is sealed w tape but as it’s hand beaten everything is always a bit wonky and i’m constantly checking seams with a mirror for leaks.

I’ve read that hotplates don’t stand up to the weight of a full still that well and am considering fitting an element to it instead.

We have a 2200w 240v element run with a PID in a RIMS setup (for brewing) and I’m thinking about drilling a hole in the still to install a 1.5inch stainless weldless TC port in order to use this element, does anyone know if this would be okay, or whether it would have to be a copper TC port welded in?

[Salt Must Flow]

I'd go with a 2" Tri-Clamp ferrule over a 1-1/2". They're easier to slide ULWD elements through. You can solder a ferrule and it will be extremely solid. The only kind of ferrule I would be a bit nervous is if it were to support a tall column. For that, I would prefer it be welded.

[Dancing4dan]

We have a 2200w 240v element run with a PID in a RIMS setup (for brewing) and I’m thinking about drilling a hole in the still to install a 1.5inch stainless weldless TC port in order to use this element, does anyone know if this would be okay, or whether it would have to be a copper TC port welded in?

2” Tri clamp SS ferrule. Use silver solder. Clean the SS with an abrasive scotch Britt pad. Liquid stay bright flux and it will be good to go. You will be able to upgrade your element if needed later.

Ask for some pointers on soldering SS when you are ready to go.

[Demy]

If you have the chance it's better soldered otherwise it will work the same.Stainless steel is fine.I use electric plates for small batches, they have limited heating power for larger batches, but they have the advantage of indirect heating, something I love.

[EricTheRed]

For a heater port i would suggest a 2" Copper TriClamp Ferrel - easy to solder in, no SS hassles - only has to support a heating element.

Get a 2" Triclamp SS heater port adaptor to attach the heating element

[Ftero]

I distilled for years with my 30 liter still on an electric stove. No issues at all. I've been using a Bayou Classic KAB4 for years. I think you would be making a mistake by installing the heating element inside the still. The still would only be viable for clear runs. Anything with fruit or grain could possibly cause scorching. My 2c anyway.

[Salt Must Flow]

I distilled for years with my 30 liter still on an electric stove. No issues at all. I've been using a Bayou Classic KAB4 for years. I think you would be making a mistake by installing the heating element inside the still. The still would only be viable for clear runs. Anything with fruit or grain could possibly cause scorching. My 2c anyway.

If someone uses two elements, each running at lower power, it greatly reduces the potential for scorching in comparison to using one element at a relatively higher power.

[Skipper1953]

I think you would be making a mistake by installing the heating element inside the still. The still would only be viable for clear runs. Anything with fruit or grain could possibly cause scorching.

firsttimer,
I have used the same 11 gallon Bayou Classic pot for boiling wort and as a boiler for a still, for years. I have a 5500 watt ultra low watt density (ULWD) element installed in a welded 2" sanitary ferrule. Scorching is not a problem if you use some sort of power controller.

[Ben]

I also use a ULWD element, just slow down the heat up a bit and solids are fine.

[Salt Must Flow]

firsttimer you can use a weldless Tri-Clamp bulkhead fitting if you want. I have one of those installed at the bottom side of a keg that I use as a kettle that I often use over propane. It came with a silicone gasket, but I took a 2" PTFE gasket and sanded it down smooth on both sides and used that. PTFE has a bit higher temp resistance. It has no signs of degradation and has been in use for years. 2" ferrules are just cheaper so a lot of people prefer to TIG weld or solder them into place.

[cob]

I have not seen an alembic with straight sides making a horizontal element installation extremely difficult.

[Salt Must Flow]

I have not seen an alembic with straight sides making a horizontal element installation extremely difficult.

Yeah that would really play hell with a bulkhead type Tri-Clamp fitting that's for sure.

For soldering, as long as the hole is cut out so that the Ferrule could slide horizontally inside the hole (tight tolerance), it can be achieved. Ferrules can be purchased in different lengths if a relatively longer one needs to be used. UWLD elements slide easily through 2" Ferrules that are 1-5/8" overall length. I don't know exactly what length would begin to interfere with inserting the element, but I imagine it would have to be significantly longer than 1-5/8" long.