Littlestan's 220V Auber Instruments Controller Box Build

[Littlestan]

Heyhey y'all,

This is my controller! There are many like it, but this one is mine.

Will post just the completed pics as the wiring is simple and I pretty much followed the diagram Auber provides, with
the addition of a 30A switch inline with the mains power. Unless someone asks for pics of the guts for some reason.
I'll do my best to provide a complete build list as well with a short explanation of why I chose each item, if warranted.

I kept this build as basic as possible as I'm only using one SSR relay, one RTD thermo sensor, controller, power switch and 240V sockets.

PARTS LIST:

Thermoplastic Enclosure (8x8x4)

There's a lot of project boxes to choose from out there, in varying sizes and shapes. I knew I wanted to go plastic instead of metal
even though it meant I'd have to make sure to ground any applicable individual components to stay safe. I liked this box due to the
generous size without being *oversized*, ease of workability, liquid/weatherproof and the ability to position the feet in several different
orientations for stability where needed.

Nonmetallic Threaded Strain Relief Fitting 3/4 Inch

Auber Instruments DSPR400 Still Heat Controller

If you're not already aware, Auber makes some damn fine distilling hardware. I waffled a bit between the DSPR220 and the DSPR400 but decided to
get the DSPR400 with all the bells and whistles for the few extra bucks to future proof myself in the event I change things up. I'll be running in
*direct, manual mode only*, not using the complicated PID scheduling system at all. The manual states how to do this but it is a tad complicated,
so I may just make a short video to demonstrate how to do it later, possibly in a separate post.

40A AC SSR Relay (SRDA40)

External-Mount Heat Sink for 40A SSR

This heatsink was just perfect as I wanted to mount it externally to put the majority of heat outside the box. It is definitely overkill
for the 40A SSR relay, but that's not at all a bad thing. Holes are predrilled in the heatsink making the installation as easy as cutting out a relay sized hole
in the lid and the included screws, applying heatsink paste to the relay (I used my own; Grizzly Kryonaut), bolting the relay on and screwing the entire heatsink assembly to
the lid. Some people apply some sort of silicone around the relay hole before bolting the heatsink down to totally seal and weatherproof it; I didn't.

Waterproof Double Pole Single Throw Rocker Switch 250V 30A

This is the only change I made to the 220V wiring diagram Auber includes in their manual for the DSPR400 controller. I ran both hots straight to the OFF
blades on the switch, then (using the appropriate length and color 10 gauge wire cutoff from one of the wiring coils I bought) crimped on a smaller 16 gauge wire
to the two 10 gauge wires I then connected to the ON blades on the switch. The smaller wires are then connected to the DSPR400 so it only comes on
when the switch is toggled ON. There are several ways to do this, including not even having an ON/OFF switch, but that's how I did it. You may note that
there is no fuse or breaker installed: since I know that everything is well grounded, I trust the breaker at the mains breaker box to pop before anything
else does in the event of some catastrophic failure. I figure it's one step above what Auber feels is a safe recommended setup, so feeling good about it.

240V 30A NEMA L6-30R Socket

There are many ways to skin a cat here in terms of power hookup, but I went with the three prong, locking socket system. Mainly because
the wiring loops (see below) I wanted had these sockets on them... very happy with the quality, fit and satisfying positive lock.

Cable, 10/3 Extension Cord TEN FEET (10') Nema L6-30 Male and Female
Cable, 15ft 10/3 Cord with NEMA L6-30P Locking Plug

You'll note the 10' cable product has one side with no plug; I cut approximately 2' off that end to wire the whole project up with, leaving me with 8' of cable
to the box, then the 15' cable to go to the element. Worked out very nicely!

Tri-Clamp Liquid tight RTD Sensor, for 2" pipe

Lots of options for RTD thermo sensors; I chose 2" triclover, 6" long with the '12 ft Braided Cable with XLRCON-M connector/cable' option. Random color: I got yellow.
Very happy with it... connecting the cable to the sensor is heaven and having the option of disconnecting it from the box is so worth the extra effort and dollars.

Heating Element, 5500 watt (240 Volts) 1.5" TC INTEGRATED Ripple V2

I cannot recommend going triclover enough for an element. Makes cleaning the keg and overall handling much easier, as well as having the ground integrated
into the triclover metal, so just attaching it to your pot/keggle automatically grounds it. So long as you have your ground wire hooked up to a proper ground...
you *did* ground everything correctly, right?

Anyways, that's pretty much it. Let me know if you have any questions or concerns. Pretty straightforward and plain Jane but drives an element with
the best of 'em! I had fun building it the way I wanted it and highly recommend it over a prebuilt for those who feel they have a strong enough handle
on working with their hands/tools/electricity.

Cheers!

[Yummyrum]

Great post
Nice build .

[BoilerMaker]

I like that the heatsink is on the outside with passive cooling. I did the same, with a DSPR400 and 5500w element, and it's worked well. Hardly gets warm.

A few suggestions to consider...

1. That specific heating element with a L6-30P doesn't appear to be waterproof. Do you have a GFCI breaker at the panel? If not, perhaps use a spa panel with a GFCI breaker between the mains and the controller. As long as the controller is pure 240v (i.e. 240v powering everything including element and DSPR400) then you can wire the spa panel to a 3 or 4 wire 240v outlet and make it work.

2. In my experience it's very useful to power the DSPR400 and make adjustments, config settings, etc without the element being on. I used a 22mm selector switch to control a 240v/30A contactor, but a switch that can handle 240 30A will probably work too as you've done already. If you add a GFCI spa panel, then the GFCI breaker can be used as the main on/off switch for the controller; then use the existing red panel mount 30A switch for the element. Or whatever, you get the idea.

If you don't use GFCI, then maybe invest in a pair of rubber boots....

[Salt Must Flow]

I like that the heatsink is on the outside with passive cooling. I did the same, with a DSPR400 and 5500w element, and it's worked well. Hardly gets warm.

A few suggestions to consider...

1. That specific heating element with a L6-30P doesn't appear to be waterproof. Do you have a GFCI breaker at the panel? If not, perhaps use a spa panel with a GFCI breaker between the mains and the controller. As long as the controller is pure 240v (i.e. 240v powering everything including element and DSPR400) then you can wire the spa panel to a 3 or 4 wire 240v outlet and make it work.

2. In my experience it's very useful to power the DSPR400 and make adjustments, config settings, etc without the element being on. I used a 22mm selector switch to control a 240v/30A contactor, but a switch that can handle 240 30A will probably work too as you've done already. If you add a GFCI spa panel, then the GFCI breaker can be used as the main on/off switch for the controller; then use the existing red panel mount 30A switch for the element. Or whatever, you get the idea.

If you don't use GFCI, then maybe invest in a pair of rubber boots....

I'm no expert, but I've been told by many that you shouldn't switch breakers on and off often like a switch, but rely on them to switch off only when triggered as a safety feature.

If you want to be able to disable the heating element (without unplugging the element) while allowing the controller to function, you can simply run the low voltage signal wires that go to the SSR through a little switch.

[Salt Must Flow]

Littlestan you're going to absolutely LOVE that Auber DSPR 400. I've tried a couple of other Auber units thinking I could settle on less expensive model, but had to return them. I'll only use the DSPR 400. It's worth every penny. There are a few settings that I thought was worth changing based on how I use mine.

I think you did the right thing by using that large heatsink when mounting it externally. I used a smaller heatsink externally on one unit and it gets pretty warm. That bothered me so I ended up Jerry rigging an external fan using standoffs. That keeps it really cool.

[Skipper1953]

If you want to be able to disable the heating element (without unplugging the element) while allowing the controller to function, you can simply run the low voltage signal wires that go to the SSR through a little switch.

I would not rely on the low voltage control wires as a means of disabling the heating element. SSR's have a nasty habit of failing in the closed or ON state. Even with the control wires removed, the SSR could still energize the element. Place an appropriate sized double pole switch, or better yet, a double pole contactor between the SSR and the AC power source to completely disconnect the element from the power source.

[TwoSheds]

Nice build Littlestan!

My controller is very similar. I added a second switch to switch off the output but keep the controller powered on and I like that configuration.

I did have a switch melt down on me! Admittedly, I used cheaper, Amazon sourced switches, but it was (theoretically) rated for 30a, 240v. This caused me to add the contactor below to handle the load, the switches now just control the contactor. This also meant a lot of my internal wiring could be finer gauge making much of the wiring easier.



That controller will serve you well!

TwoSheds

[Salt Must Flow]

If you want to be able to disable the heating element (without unplugging the element) while allowing the controller to function, you can simply run the low voltage signal wires that go to the SSR through a little switch.

I would not rely on the low voltage control wires as a means of disabling the heating element. SSR's have a nasty habit of failing in the closed or ON state. Even with the control wires removed, the SSR could still energize the element. Place an appropriate sized double pole switch, or better yet, a double pole contactor between the SSR and the AC power source to completely disconnect the element from the power source.

I hear ya and I've heard that before too. It's never happened to me once, but I don't trigger my elements unless their unplugged or submerged. If you think about it, the vast majority of people who build PID controllers as well as power regulators for all of the many uses for them do not use a switch to disable their elements. That means IF the SSR glitches out then what you've described can happen regardless whether the controller is switched on or off too.

I agree though that a switch to disable the element is handy. I was just offering an alternative option that is very simple and less bulky.

[Skipper1953]

I hear ya and I've heard that before too. It's never happened to me once, but I don't trigger my elements unless their unplugged or submerged. If you think about it, the vast majority of people who build PID controllers as well as power regulators for all of the many uses for them do not use a switch to disable their elements. That means IF the SSR glitches out then what you've described can happen regardless whether the controller is switched on or off too.

I agree though that a switch to disable the element is handy. I was just offering an alternative option that is very simple and less bulky.

SSR's have a nasty habit of failing in the closed or ON state. I've not just heard of that, I've had it happen. It did not create a safety problem for me, but it did scorch the hell out of a still charge before I realized what had happened. Furthermore, it is not just a matter of firing an element at an inopportune time. It is about having a portion of a circuit energized when a do-it-yourselfer, or anybody else, is not expecting it to be energized.

Regardless of what the vast majority of people may or may not do, simpler and less bulky should be considered AFTER safety and not instead of safety. I am not an expert in this field, either. I would be happy to hear from someone who is an expert. In the mean time, I believe the information I have provided about SSRs will help people make a better informed decision about how they proceed with their DIY adventure.

Nice write up Littlestan.

Be safe.

[BoilerMaker]

I'm no expert, but I've been told by many that you shouldn't switch breakers on and off often like a switch, but rely on them to switch off only when triggered as a safety feature.

That's a good point. I'll plug/unplug the spa panel at the wall and leave the GFCI breaker ON. Thanks.

If you want to be able to disable the heating element (without unplugging the element) while allowing the controller to function, you can simply run the low voltage signal wires that go to the SSR through a little switch.

Keep in mind for 240v that will only cut power to one 120v leg and the other leg at element is still hot...

SSR's have a nasty habit of failing in the closed or ON state. I've not just heard of that, I've had it happen.

Was that SSR coupled to an Auber controller? Just curious. I believe Auber DSPR firmware uses zero-crossing detection to determine the relay switch points. Don't know for sure or how well it's calibrated - would be interesting to put a scope on it to verify. There are certainly poor quality relays, but even good quality relays will die much sooner with poorly designed controllers.

[Skipper1953]

SSR's have a nasty habit of failing in the closed or ON state. I've not just heard of that, I've had it happen.

Was that SSR coupled to an Auber controller? Just curious. I believe Auber DSPR firmware uses zero-crossing detection to determine the relay switch points. Don't know for sure or how well it's calibrated - would be interesting to put a scope on it to verify. There are certainly poor quality relays, but even good quality relays will die much sooner with poorly designed controllers.

The Crydom CSD2450 SSR that failed closed was being controlled by an Auber Instruments SYL-2352 PID. I'm still using that same SYL-2352 PID today, several years later. I don't remember if the SSR is of the zero crossing or burst firing variety. For the purpose of this discussion, I really can not see why it would matter. Nor do I understand how a scope or component quality has anything to do with how one would safely wire a SSR controlled heating element.

Again,
I would not rely on the low voltage control wires as a means of disabling the heating element. SSR's have a nasty habit of failing in the closed or ON state. Even with the control wires removed, the SSR could still energize the element. Place an appropriate sized double pole switch, or better yet, a double pole contactor between the SSR and the AC power source on one side of the element and between the element and the AC power source on the other side to completely disconnect the element from the AC power source. This assumes you are running a 240 volt system. On a 120 volt system, use the contactor to open the hot side/SSR side and the neutral side of the power supply to the element.

Be safe.

[Yummyrum]

. I believe Auber DSPR firmware uses zero-crossing detection to determine the relay switch points. Don't know for sure or how well it's calibrated - would be interesting to put a scope on it to verify. There are certainly poor quality relays, but even good quality relays will die much sooner with poorly designed controllers.

As far as I’m aware , all SSR__DA solid state relays have Zero crossing built into them . Regardless of when in a cycle it is triggered , it will wait until the end of the half cycle before triggering the Triac .
Those Auber controllers will drive a three phase SSR with just one output . So there is no zero crossing built into the Controller , it’s done in the SSR’s.


I agree that a SSR should never be trusted to be off . Thirty years spent replacing mostly short circuited semiconductor devices reaffirms that .

Regardless, this build has quick release plug and sockets so surely one could easily just unplug the element if having no power to it was required

[Littlestan]

Thanks so much for the feedback and constructive criticism/warnings everyone! Can't wait to finish and
write up my other build threads now.

Regardless, this build has quick release plug and sockets so surely one could easily just unplug the element if having no power to it was required

To sum up the SSR/component failure concerns; this was my simplistic intention with the build in regards to 1 hot always being live with the controller active.
I concede it's probably the bare minimum to rely on a switch and the mains breaker, but with everything solidly grounded I hopefully won't have to worry
about getting those gumboots.

Again, really appreciate all the advice!

[Littlestan]

Just a quick follow up since I've successfully used it for multiple runs now...

Littlestan you're going to absolutely LOVE that Auber DSPR 400. I've tried a couple of other Auber units thinking I could settle on less expensive model, but had to return them. I'll only use the DSPR 400. It's worth every penny. There are a few settings that I thought was worth changing based on how I use mine.

I think you did the right thing by using that large heatsink when mounting it externally. I used a smaller heatsink externally on one unit and it gets pretty warm. That bothered me so I ended up Jerry rigging an external fan using standoffs. That keeps it really cool.

You were absolutely right Salt; the Auber is slick AF and a dream to use. Rotary adjustments are very easy and enjoyable to do with the positive feel of the indents as you turn it.
Display for % of power as well as the temperature from the RTD sensor is very nice as well. These units speak for themselves!

And you nailed it right on the head with the heatsink not being too big when I initially thought it may be overkill. I can *just* barely rest my hand on it when at full blast. (5500w/100%)
I will edit my original post to reflect this discovery. [Edit: seems my original post is no longer editable so hopefully future builders can see it here.]

I used a multimeter while it was running to check for errant wiring or ground fluctuations and found none, so was very pleased about that. Cables stay cool to the touch even at
maximum power and running for hours. All in all, great success!

I will post my keggle/still build and my Booner's Casual All Corn + Taters Blueberrie Liqueur experiences soon.

[Salt Must Flow]

Just a quick follow up since I've successfully used it for multiple runs now...

Littlestan you're going to absolutely LOVE that Auber DSPR 400. I've tried a couple of other Auber units thinking I could settle on less expensive model, but had to return them. I'll only use the DSPR 400. It's worth every penny. There are a few settings that I thought was worth changing based on how I use mine.

I think you did the right thing by using that large heatsink when mounting it externally. I used a smaller heatsink externally on one unit and it gets pretty warm. That bothered me so I ended up Jerry rigging an external fan using standoffs. That keeps it really cool.

You were absolutely right Salt; the Auber is slick AF and a dream to use. Rotary adjustments are very easy and enjoyable to do with the positive feel of the indents as you turn it.
Display for % of power as well as the temperature from the RTD sensor is very nice as well. These units speak for themselves!

And you nailed it right on the head with the heatsink not being too big when I initially thought it may be overkill. I can *just* barely rest my hand on it when at full blast. (5500w/100%)
I will edit my original post to reflect this discovery. [Edit: seems my original post is no longer editable so hopefully future builders can see it here.]

I used a multimeter while it was running to check for errant wiring or ground fluctuations and found none, so was very pleased about that. Cables stay cool to the touch even at
maximum power and running for hours. All in all, great success!

I will post my keggle/still build and my Booner's Casual All Corn + Taters Blueberrie Liqueur experiences soon.

Just a side note, for future projects, you can save quite a bit of money by using one of these Panel Mount Connectors and these RTD Sensors.

I also make my own thermowells similar to what's shown on this page only I use this copper tube. This makes your RTD sensor not dedicated to a single location. I put these thermowells in my boilers, in the vapor path and in the outgoing water lines on all of my condensers. Not only do these RTD sensors fit perfectly, it also fits most thermometer & temp probes too. It's a cost saving and makes everything compatible too.

A flashing buzzer is a nice little addition that I use on all of my controllers along with an alarm kill switch. I always add a 12V green LED indicator light, wire it to the signal wires of the SSR so it lights up when the element is on. These may seem like silly extras, but I really enjoy these indicators. When I build a controller without these extras, it annoys me and I always end up installing them later.