Thoughts ?

[Old Dog New Tricks]

Been looking and Learning, Wife offered to buy me one off Mile High,
Thinking about the New 3 inch copper Colum, and their 8 Gal. milk can to learn on, Looking to distill Bourbon, Rum, Whiskey, Vodka...
Looking for input.

[BlueSasquatch]

8 Gallons is a good starting capacity, and 3" column is a good size as well, you could probably get by with a 2" on the 8 gal, but if you got the money, the size up wouldn't hurt.

Can't tell from that description, there are alot of options on Mile High, so IDK exactly what you're getting, most of their condensers look like bottle-necks.

If you don't want to make one, maybe get the 8-gal milk can, a 3" copper tower and then try to grab a different condenser, shotgun if they offer one.

[Old Dog New Tricks]

Looking at this, And seeing if they are willing to up grade, For the Price difference to the #" coloum, then next year buying a larger kettle...
https://milehidistilling.com/product/8- ... rpose-kit/

[Old Dog New Tricks]

8 Gallons is a good starting capacity, and 3" column is a good size as well, you could probably get by with a 2" on the 8 gal, but if you got the money, the size up wouldn't hurt.

Can't tell from that description, there are alot of options on Mile High, so IDK exactly what you're getting, most of their condensers look like bottle-necks.

If you don't want to make one, maybe get the 8-gal milk can, a 3" copper tower and then try to grab a different condenser, shotgun if they offer one.

The new 3 " copper Colum has a 6" 8 hole condenser, Part of the Package

[BlueSasquatch]

Its your money.

Pros
Good Capacity for starting out
Good "kit" with everything you "need" to hit the ground running
No home manufacturing needed

Cons
Stainless Condenser; Stainless is terrible at exchanging heat
Condenser rather small; runs will be limited by your condenser power
110v Element and controller; Well perhaps this will be your limiting factor and not your condenser. Someone here can do the math on a 6-gallon batch, how long at 110v would a 100% power stripping run take. (1st pass is stripping, you run as hard as your still can handle, 2nd is Spirit, much slower, making cuts)
Forget the term but they have a Delphamgator or Vertical Condenser in the riser portion, to cause reflux when you're operating in a tower/reflux mode, its the more common tower you see people sell, but it's the least used by experienced home distillers, there are issues with it.


I reckon your upgrades within a year would be 220v Controller + Shotgun Copper Condenser.



Edit: Sounds like you're gonna ask for a 6" 8-hole condenser, so that should help. 110v will be the limiting factor then.

[Old Dog New Tricks]

Its your money.

Pros
Good Capacity for starting out
Good "kit" with everything you "need" to hit the ground running
No home manufacturing needed

Cons
Stainless Condenser; Stainless is terrible at exchanging heat
Condenser rather small; runs will be limited by your condenser power
110v Element and controller; Well perhaps this will be your limiting factor and not your condenser. Someone here can do the math on a 6-gallon batch, how long at 110v would a 100% power stripping run take. (1st pass is stripping, you run as hard as your still can handle, 2nd is Spirit, much slower, making cuts)
Forget the term but they have a Delphamgator or Vertical Condenser in the riser portion, to cause reflux when you're operating in a tower/reflux mode, its the more common tower you see people sell, but it's the least used by experienced home distillers, there are issues with it.


I reckon your upgrades within a year would be 220v Controller + Shotgun Copper Condenser.



Edit: Sounds like you're gonna ask for a 6" 8-hole condenser, so that should help. 110v will be the limiting factor then.

https://milehidistilling.com/product/3- ... pro-tower/
This has the 6" Delphamgator included, Power is a initial issue, but next year new " brew Shed" with power is planned as well,.. Then upgrading power and building a scr controller to use for heating...

[Old Dog New Tricks]

Its your money.

Pros
Good Capacity for starting out
Good "kit" with everything you "need" to hit the ground running
No home manufacturing needed

Cons
Stainless Condenser; Stainless is terrible at exchanging heat
Condenser rather small; runs will be limited by your condenser power
110v Element and controller; Well perhaps this will be your limiting factor and not your condenser. Someone here can do the math on a 6-gallon batch, how long at 110v would a 100% power stripping run take. (1st pass is stripping, you run as hard as your still can handle, 2nd is Spirit, much slower, making cuts)
Forget the term but they have a Delphamgator or Vertical Condenser in the riser portion, to cause reflux when you're operating in a tower/reflux mode, its the more common tower you see people sell, but it's the least used by experienced home distillers, there are issues with it.


I reckon your upgrades within a year would be 220v Controller + Shotgun Copper Condenser.



Edit: Sounds like you're gonna ask for a 6" 8-hole condenser, so that should help. 110v will be the limiting factor then.

https://milehidistilling.com/product/3- ... pro-tower/
This has the 6" Delphamgator included, Power is a initial issue, but next year new " brew Shed" with power is planned as well,.. Then upgrading power and building a scr controller to use for heating...

Thanks for the Input Blue, I like input over Impulse...

[subbrew]

It is a pretty kit. Yes, 110 v is a bit slow but will work. My biggest gripe would be the entire column is one piece. Not very modular to let you easily change out a condenser or add more column to be able to get a cleaner product. If you have skills, cutting just below and above the reflux condenser and then soldering in triclamp ferrules to all the cut ends will allow the reflux condenser to be removed and other parts easily added.

[BlueSasquatch]

Oh Im big on impulse as well, have a few friends who sit and research and never do anything.

A brew shed would be great, not sure on your skills, but could consider putting off distilling for half a year while you order and make your own parts. A keg still is about as easy as one can get, the longer process of making it also ensures you've read things over and over, and you understand everything a touch better as well.

But acquiring soldering and mfg skills are a different approach that not everyone wants to dicker with when they approach home distilling as a hobby.

If I had money to spend, I'd look for a pre-doctored keg, some companies online sell them, with a large top, and heating element ports on the side. Buy a 220v controller (not terribly hard to make tho) then buy a 2" pot still riser, and a good condenser. Likely every single item would come from a different Mfg, can't seem to find one that carries it all. And then put the kit together, but probably $1,500 by the end, if not more.

[BlueSasquatch]

8 Gallon Milk Kettle with connections out the ying yang - $250
https://www.olympicdistillers.com/shop- ... ium-kettle

2" Copper Shotgun Condenser - $225
https://www.olympicdistillers.com/shop- ... ser-2-inch

Heating Element needs more research, but here is a 240v - $500
https://www.olympicdistillers.com/shop- ... lon-boiler

Missing the Tower, but I think if you're looking mostly at Browns, the Pot-Still route is the way to go, in which case you really just need a empty vertical pipe with a 90 on the top to tie into your condenser. more or less.

[Old Dog New Tricks]

It is a pretty kit. Yes, 110 v is a bit slow but will work. My biggest gripe would be the entire column is one piece. Not very modular to let you easily change out a condenser or add more column to be able to get a cleaner product. If you have skills, cutting just below and above the reflux condenser and then soldering in triclamp ferrules to all the cut ends will allow the reflux condenser to be removed and other parts easily added.

This is a pic of the upgrade column I'm looking at

very modular system

[Old Dog New Tricks]

8 Gallon Milk Kettle with connections out the ying yang - $250
https://www.olympicdistillers.com/shop- ... ium-kettle

2" Copper Shotgun Condenser - $225
https://www.olympicdistillers.com/shop- ... ser-2-inch

Heating Element needs more research, but here is a 240v - $500
https://www.olympicdistillers.com/shop- ... lon-boiler

Missing the Tower, but I think if you're looking mostly at Browns, the Pot-Still route is the way to go, in which case you really just need a empty vertical pipe with a 90 on the top to tie into your condenser. more or less.

Blue, thanks for that, good solid options, Not buying anything just yet, But leaning towards the aforementioned set up, then upgrades to follow, Initial cost will be lower, Modular, to Improve upon..

[Salt Must Flow]

That 3" column looks too short to me. I wouldn't go less than 5'. It would be ideal if there were a double wound copper coil reflux condenser on top, ditch the dephlegmator and simply add a 1" gate valve on the vapor takeoff.

Anyone with basic hand tools and a torch can make a top notch 4'-5' Liebig condenser for the cost of materials. The rest is just parts, Tri-Clamp spools, clamps, gaskets, a sight glass and anyone can wide a copper reflux condenser. The column doesn't have to be copper, but you can buy copper pipe and solder either copper or stainless Tri-Clamp ferrules to it. I really think you can make a significantly better still all by yourself. If you need to customize parts, do all the drilling, grinding yourself and have a local TIG weld the parts for you. Find a local TIG welder because the cost for welding is less than the cost for special parts. I went to a local welding supply company and asked if they know of a local guy. They hooked me up with a wonderful contact.

I would recommend instead of looking at still designs that are sold, look more at the very best still designs that exist and assemble your own. I'd start with a 15.5 gal keg. A 240V ULWD element is ideal. 120V is approx 1/4 the power if I recall correctly so it is very very slow.

[Old Dog New Tricks]

That 3" column looks too short to me. I wouldn't go less than 5'. It would be ideal if there were a double wound copper coil reflux condenser on top, ditch the dephlegmator and simply added a 1" gate valve on the vapor takeoff.

Anyone with basic hand tools and a torch can make a top notch 4'-5' Liebig condenser for the cost of materials. The rest is just parts, Tri-Clamp spools, clamps, gaskets, a sight glass and anyone can wide a copper reflux condenser. The column doesn't have to be copper, but you can buy copper pipe and solder either copper or stainless Tri-Clamp ferrules to it. I really think you can make a significantly better still all by yourself. If you need to customize parts, do all the drilling, grinding yourself and have a local TIG weld the parts for you. Find a local TIG welder because the cost for welding is less than the cost for special parts. I went to a local welding supply company and asked if they know of a local guy. They hooked me up with a wonderful contact.

I would recommend instead of looking at still designs that are sold, look more at the very best still designs that exist and assemble your own. I'd start with a 15.5 gal keg. A 240V ULWD element is ideal. 120V is approx 1/4 the power if I recall correctly so it is very very slow.

Saltt, THank You, Solid advice, My Metal skills are Terrible.. Will look into a few Metal and Fab shops for welding, Soldering components...

[Salt Must Flow]

That 3" column looks too short to me. I wouldn't go less than 5'. It would be ideal if there were a double wound copper coil reflux condenser on top, ditch the dephlegmator and simply added a 1" gate valve on the vapor takeoff.

Anyone with basic hand tools and a torch can make a top notch 4'-5' Liebig condenser for the cost of materials. The rest is just parts, Tri-Clamp spools, clamps, gaskets, a sight glass and anyone can wide a copper reflux condenser. The column doesn't have to be copper, but you can buy copper pipe and solder either copper or stainless Tri-Clamp ferrules to it. I really think you can make a significantly better still all by yourself. If you need to customize parts, do all the drilling, grinding yourself and have a local TIG weld the parts for you. Find a local TIG welder because the cost for welding is less than the cost for special parts. I went to a local welding supply company and asked if they know of a local guy. They hooked me up with a wonderful contact.

I would recommend instead of looking at still designs that are sold, look more at the very best still designs that exist and assemble your own. I'd start with a 15.5 gal keg. A 240V ULWD element is ideal. 120V is approx 1/4 the power if I recall correctly so it is very very slow.

Saltt, THank You, Solid advice, My Metal skills are Terrible.. Will look into a few Metal and Fab shops for welding, Soldering components...

I try to stay away from fabrication shops because they tend to charge by the hour with one hour minimum. If I brought a single part in to get a 10 min weld job, they often charge for an entire hour. The guy my local welding supply store directed me to welds race car frames in his own shop. Anything I ever need welded is nothing compared to what he does on a daily basis. Your local shop will likely know of someone who does side job welding.

[Old Dog New Tricks]

That 3" column looks too short to me. I wouldn't go less than 5'. It would be ideal if there were a double wound copper coil reflux condenser on top, ditch the dephlegmator and simply added a 1" gate valve on the vapor takeoff.

Anyone with basic hand tools and a torch can make a top notch 4'-5' Liebig condenser for the cost of materials. The rest is just parts, Tri-Clamp spools, clamps, gaskets, a sight glass and anyone can wide a copper reflux condenser. The column doesn't have to be copper, but you can buy copper pipe and solder either copper or stainless Tri-Clamp ferrules to it. I really think you can make a significantly better still all by yourself. If you need to customize parts, do all the drilling, grinding yourself and have a local TIG weld the parts for you. Find a local TIG welder because the cost for welding is less than the cost for special parts. I went to a local welding supply company and asked if they know of a local guy. They hooked me up with a wonderful contact.

I would recommend instead of looking at still designs that are sold, look more at the very best still designs that exist and assemble your own. I'd start with a 15.5 gal keg. A 240V ULWD element is ideal. 120V is approx 1/4 the power if I recall correctly so it is very very slow.

Saltt, THank You, Solid advice, My Metal skills are Terrible.. Will look into a few Metal and Fab shops for welding, Soldering components...

I try to stay away from fabrication shops because they tend to charge by the hour with one hour minimum. If I brought a single part in to get a 10 min weld job, they often charge for an entire hour. The guy my local welding supply store directed me to welds race car frames in his own shop. Anything I ever need welded is nothing compared to what he does on a daily basis. Your local shop will likely know of someone who does side job welding.

Salt, Thanks again, I Know a few "Racers" never thought about their welding skills needed.... Good input

[JLP IV]

Since your already thinking about a bigger boiler for next year, why not spend the money for the larger one now and save a few bucks.

[BlueSasquatch]

Since your already thinking about a bigger boiler for next year, why not spend the money for the larger one now and save a few bucks.

Don't disagree, but smaller makes for more manageable mash/ferments. A newbie doesn't need to mash 30 gallons right off the bat. It's a catch 22, cuz cuts are easier with more volume.

[Salt Must Flow]

I would recommend thinking about where you want to be in the future, the cost to do so and whether or not you want to spend the money on buying/building potentially twice. You know what they say, buy once cry once and I've never regretted it. I priced out a significantly smaller build and to me the cost just didn't warrant it when I could just go with the scale for the production I really wanted anyway. For me the choice was very easy because I mostly store gallons of azeo in glass jars, dilute with water upon demand and I have my vodka. I don't want to have to ferment small amounts, strip and do spirit runs every couple months or so. I do 45 gal ferments, big stripping runs and use my keg boiler for spirit runs. My story may have little to no relevance to your desires. Hell if money no object then have at it and upgrade later too.

It's all about what you want, what you want to be able to do and how.

[IMALOSERSCUMBAG]

Been looking and Learning, Wife offered to buy me one off Mile High,
Thinking about the New 3 inch copper Colum, and their 8 Gal. milk can to learn on, Looking to distill Bourbon, Rum, Whiskey, Vodka...
Looking for input.

For the cost difference go with 4" column and a 16 gal boiler. My guess is you may "outgrow" a 3" with a 8gal. Keep in mind you do not need to fill the 16 gal to the top, just make sure the heating element never gets exposed.

[Old Dog New Tricks]

Since your already thinking about a bigger boiler for next year, why not spend the money for the larger one now and save a few bucks.

My house only has 2 220v outlets, hence waiting till Brew shed is built..

[Old Dog New Tricks]

Been looking and Learning, Wife offered to buy me one off Mile High,
Thinking about the New 3 inch copper Colum, and their 8 Gal. milk can to learn on, Looking to distill Bourbon, Rum, Whiskey, Vodka...
Looking for input.

For the cost difference go with 4" column and a 16 gal boiler. My guess is you may "outgrow" a 3" with a 8gal. Keep in mind you do not need to fill the 16 gal to the top, just make sure the heating element never gets exposed.

My plan was to get started on the 8 gal pot, then when I upgrade, the * will become my thumper/Spirit run system.

[Stonecutter]

I’d just buy the 8 gallon boiler with lid attachment and element if they’re still selling them individually.
Go grab some 2” copper pipe and get to work.
You’ll thank yourself later.

[Stonecutter]

The Condenser is undersized for stripping runs and the CM jacket is just a kiddie pool for the plated columns.

[Old Dog New Tricks]

I would recommend thinking about where you want to be in the future, the cost to do so and whether or not you want to spend the money on buying/building potentially twice. You know what they say, buy once cry once and I've never regretted it. I priced out a significantly smaller build and to me the cost just didn't warrant it when I could just go with the scale for the production I really wanted anyway. For me the choice was very easy because I mostly store gallons of azeo in glass jars, dilute with water upon demand and I have my vodka. I don't want to have to ferment small amounts, strip and do spirit runs every couple months or so. I do 45 gal ferments, big stripping runs and use my keg boiler for spirit runs. My story may have little to no relevance to your desires. Hell if money no object then have at it and upgrade later too.

It's all about what you want, what you want to be able to do and how.

Salt , Solid Advice...Started to price out Copper pipe / Tubing...

[Old Dog New Tricks]

I’d just buy the 8 gallon boiler with lid attachment and element if they’re still selling them individually.
Go grab some 2” copper pipe and get to work.
You’ll thank yourself later.

Stonecutter, Good input

[bcook608]

I agree with salt and stone. If you don't want to weld, TwistedBrick offers to make shotgun condensers, you may want to send him a message.
The rest of your still head could be made by purchasing spools and other readymade parts and it wouldn't be too hard to piece together a really good pot still head.

Grab the boiler you want, then assemble your head to match what you want to make. I would recommend starting with a pot still if you're going to be shooting for whiskeys and aged spirits. Then it's just a matter of swapping out a few pieces and adding some height to turn it into a reflux column of your choosing.

Just some things to think about.

[Old Dog New Tricks]

I agree with salt and stone. If you don't want to weld, TwistedBrick offers to make shotgun condensers, you may want to send him a message.
The rest of your still head could be made by purchasing spools and other readymade parts and it wouldn't be too hard to piece together a really good pot still head.

Grab the boiler you want, then assemble your head to match what you want to make. I would recommend starting with a pot still if you're going to be shooting for whiskeys and aged spirits. Then it's just a matter of swapping out a few pieces and adding some height to turn it into a reflux column of your choosing.

Just some things to think about.

bccok, Thanks for the advice, I just sent a IM to TwistedBrick...

[EricTheRed]

Most important, to me anyway, is to fit everything with tri clamps. Makes everything modular
Then you can change your mind whenever you like.

[bcook608]

I agree with salt and stone. If you don't want to weld, TwistedBrick offers to make shotgun condensers, you may want to send him a message.
The rest of your still head could be made by purchasing spools and other readymade parts and it wouldn't be too hard to piece together a really good pot still head.

Grab the boiler you want, then assemble your head to match what you want to make. I would recommend starting with a pot still if you're going to be shooting for whiskeys and aged spirits. Then it's just a matter of swapping out a few pieces and adding some height to turn it into a reflux column of your choosing.

Just some things to think about.

bccok, Thanks for the advice, I just sent a IM to TwistedBrick...

Great! He made a number for members here. My pot still uses the one he made for me.
As you can see, and as EricTheRed has mentioned, I made mine with everything connecting via tri-clamp for flexibility. This will allow me to be able to reconfigure in a number of ways if I decide to change the design of my stillhead.