Vevor clone: The Improvening

Simple pot still distillation and construction with or without a thumper.

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Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

I have an 8 gallon Vevor clone which I’ve modified a bit and am generally not unhappy with. In my opinion, there are two areas where it has room for improvement: the silicone gasket, and more or less the entire vapor path, especially the brass fittings and the cheap condenser. The metal is thin too, but there’s not a lot you can do about that.

My modifications were simple enough. I replaced the silicone gasket with PTFE, soldered 3/4” copper pipe to the lid, and made a small shotgun condenser. The condenser is connected via a copper union. Since I moved the thermometer into the vapor path, I soldered a piece of copper over the second hole in the lid. This worked well for me for quite a while.
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However, there were a couple issues which I wasn’t happy with. For one, the general quality of the work isn’t my best. It’s not straight, and the patch was very poorly done. It’s functional, but I’m not proud of it. Then there’s the issue of the elbow on the condenser making it impossible to get in there for cleaning. I also don’t like needing a wrench to put everything together.

And then last time I ran the still, I noticed that the solder joint between the lid and the copper pipe had cracked, presumably due to the weight of the condenser on it. Easily repaired, but that was the last little bit of motivation I needed to make some changes. I’ve been wanting to move up to a more modular design, using tri-clamps. So, the time has come.

Since it seems that anything 1.5” or less uses the same size flange, it seems logical to me to go with 1.5” tri-clamps. To that end, I will be soldering two ferrules to the lid of my boiler. One will go where my 3/4” pipe was, the other where the plugged hole was. While I don’t absolutely need two, it’s a nice clean way of hiding an ugly patch, plus it gives me access if I want to refill the boiler, add a thermometer, a stirrer, or whatever else I chose to do in the future.

I started by heating the pieces I’d soldered to the lid, and pulling them off.
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Told you it was ugly.
Last edited by Steve Broady on Thu Nov 03, 2022 3:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

I then started hammering out the lid, since the flat area where I’m working is just a little smaller than the 1.5” ferrule. A little careful work with a block of wood and a ball peen hammer, and I’ve got space to solder the ferrule to a nice flat surface.
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Then I decided that I needed a way to hold the ferrule in place while soldering. Digging through my box of plumbing parts, I found a black iron reducer that happens to be almost exactly the same size as the ferrule. Perfect! A few licks with the angle grinder and then a file cleaned up and flattened the end so that it would hold the ferrule tight against the lid.
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I just grabbed the first bolt and scrap of metal that were big enough to do the job.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

With the preparation work done on the lid, I turned my attention to the condenser. Here’s where I started.
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The first thing I had to do was to remove the elbow and 1” coupling. I wasn’t sure how that was going to go, and how much damage I was about to do. Only one way to find out..
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Turns out that I didn’t do a great job wetting that coupling. Oh well, it worked I guess. Thankfully, having flared the ends of the 1/4” tubes into the tube plate seems to have done a good job holding everything together. I did get a small gap around the water fitting, but I can address that easily enough. Could have gone a lot worse.

In case you were wondering, a 1.25” ferrule fits over 1” copper pipe beautifully.
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That’s as far as I can go tonight. I’m expecting some solder and flux tomorrow, so hopefully I’ll be able to get everything soldered and cleaned by tomorrow evening. With any luck, I’ve done enough prep work to make the soldering a quick and painless job.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

Just a brief update, in case anyone is wondering. My flux did not get delivered when I hoped, and some other fluxes I’ve tried have yielded absolutely giddier results. So I’m still waiting on the right supplies.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by ThomasBrewer »

Steve - Certainty applaud your efforts! Since you seem to have a pretty good handle on jigs and bending metal, I would strongly suggest making a pull-through tool for the ferrule in the lid to give a little more support at the soldering joint. If you're unfamiliar, here's a link to that process -

Tool - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ ... ol15tc.htm

Great flux - Stay Brite Harris https://a.co/d/9tFDxtj
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Demy »

Keep it up
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Yummyrum »

Steve , that pic of the solder on the lid looks like a symptom way too much heat.
While copper is a good conductor of heat and it sucks it out and dissipates it as quick as you can feed it in , Staino is a poor conductor and readily over heats very quickly , overheating the stainless ( obvious by the discolouration ) , cooks the flux rendering it pretty much useless and burning the solder .

I suggest you use significantly less heat and you will achieve way better results . :thumbup:
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

Yummyrum wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 12:40 am Steve , that pic of the solder on the lid looks like a symptom way too much heat.
Thank you for the advice. I’m still very much trying to learn to solder stainless. That said, that’s just a picture of the recently disassembled joint. I just heated it up until it would come apart. When I finally get my flux in and have a chance to work again, I’ll definitely be a lot more careful.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

Just a thought here. A lot of people are hard on these cheap Vevor clones, and I totally understand why. However, in my case being cheap is a big advantage. Not only does it stretch my hobby budget, it gives me a fairly low risk way to practice skills that will be useful whenever I move up to something bigger and better. I’d hate to hack up and potentially ruin a $500-$1000 still, but a $100 boiler is a lot less scary.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Saltbush Bill »

Steve Broady wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 3:13 am Just a thought here. A lot of people are hard on these cheap Vevor clones, and I totally understand why. However, in my case being cheap is a big advantage. Not only does it stretch my hobby budget, it gives me a fairly low risk way to practice skills that will be useful whenever I move up to something bigger and better. I’d hate to hack up and potentially ruin a $500-$1000 still, but a $100 boiler is a lot less scary.
You can buy a beer keg here for $50 or cheaper, if you dont rush into buying the first thing you see......much like buying a still .....why would you not start that way then spend another $100 on copper .....before you know it you have a $150 pot still without buying a piece of shit that you had to buy then modify?
Sorry the whole concept of buying cheap shit then modifying so that it actually works , doesn't make sense to me.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

The problem with buying a keg is that you have to start somewhere. That keg needs modification before it’s a still. It also needs some kind of condenser. And a heat source. All of that is simple for anyone with a little practice under their belt, but to someone looking at the hobby for the first time it’s a bit of a hurdle. I’ve said several times that if I were starting over now, I would do it very differently, but I tried a couple times in the last and failed, so this gave me the confidence I needed to actually have something functional. I can now make incremental improvements in both my still and my skill.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Saltbush Bill »

Steve Broady wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 3:37 am All of that is simple for anyone with a little practice under their belt, but to someone looking at the hobby for the first time it’s a bit of a hurdle.
Maybe give some thought to how all of us folk who started out in this hobby before you could buy a cheap shit still to modify managed to climb over that hurdle.............it really ain't that hard..
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

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Steve Broady wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 3:37 am The problem with buying a keg is that you have to start somewhere. That keg needs modification before it’s a still. It also needs some kind of condenser. And a heat source. All of that is simple for anyone with a little practice under their belt, but to someone looking at the hobby for the first time it’s a bit of a hurdle. I’ve said several times that if I were starting over now, I would do it very differently, but I tried a couple times in the last and failed, so this gave me the confidence I needed to actually have something functional. I can now make incremental improvements in both my still and my skill.
I think you're doing fine. a keg still is not for everyone, and whatever gets you into the craft and keeping at it is good.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

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Saltbush Bill wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 4:36 am Maybe give some thought to how all of us folk who started out in this hobby before you could buy a cheap shit still to modify managed to climb over that hurdle.............it really ain't that hard..
I completely agree. I’ve been involved in other hobbies with similar barriers to entry, and seen people look down their noses at newcomers who find what they consider to be an easier way in. I think there’s a lot to be said for having learned the hard way and earned your stripes. You don’t get to walk in the door and then claim to be a pro.

My point was simply that sometimes lowering the bar a little bit can help welcome new people. As long as we don’t confuse easy with good, then making it easier to get in might not be such a terrible thing. Basically, lower the bar to entry, but not your standards. My attitude, when I see one of those stills, is that it’s not great, especially right out of the box, but we all had to start somewhere. As long as you are willing to acknowledge the limitations and look at it as just one step on the path, then I don’t think they always deserve the disdain they sometimes get.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by ThomasBrewer »

Steve Broady wrote: Thu Nov 03, 2022 3:15 pm
Image

I just grabbed the first bolt and scrap of metal that were big enough to do the job.
This joint is almost guaranteed to fail.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

ThomasBrewer wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 8:41 am This joint is almost guaranteed to fail.
I agree! In fact, it already failed as soon as I took the bolt off. Probably because it was just a dry mockup for the purpose of showing how I was going to hold the parts together. :moresarcasm:
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

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ThomasBrewer wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 8:41 am
Steve Broady wrote: Thu Nov 03, 2022 3:15 pm
Image

I just grabbed the first bolt and scrap of metal that were big enough to do the job.
This joint is almost guaranteed to fail.
I agree . But I think its just a mock up to show the method that will be used once the flux arrives .
But it will need dismantling and total cleaning of that discoloured stainless back to shining metal again or there won’t be a snowflake's chance in hell of the solder bonding regardless of how good the flux is .

Edit . LOL posted with steve
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

Yummyrum wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 12:00 pm But it will need dismantling and total cleaning of that discoloured stainless back to shining metal again or there won’t be a snowflake's chance in hell of the solder bonding regardless of how good the flux is .
Yessir! It will be scrupulously scrubbed and cleaned and fluxed and given all the love I can give to anything with sandpaper and a torch.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by ThomasBrewer »

I understand that the photo was just showing the fixturing. A butt joint like that will fail. If you tig welded it, that would be a different story. You can't just rely on the solder to keep the fitting in place.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

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Steve Broady wrote: Thu Nov 03, 2022 3:15 pm I found a black iron reducer that happens to be almost exactly the same size as the ferrule. Perfect!
Perfect... No... real bad combination of metals and setup.. the black iron reducer will draw all the heat and the thin lid will be over heated and the soldering will not work..

Also the ss ferrule on the shotgun end will leak vapors as the solder has not contacted properly with the copper..

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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

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StillerBoy wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 3:46 pm Perfect... No... real bad combination of metals and setup.. the black iron reducer will draw all the heat and the thin lid will be over heated and the soldering will not work..
My thought was that I could heat the black iron, which would in turn *prevent* overheating the thin metal, as well as holding the joint hot long enough for the solder to flow well and not freeze early.
StillerBoy wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 3:46 pm Also the ss ferrule on the shotgun end will leak vapors as the solder has not contacted properly with the copper.
I’m afraid I don’t understand this at all. There is a beautifully even ring of solder everywhere that the ferrule will go. The poor joint I showed earlier was discovered upon disassembly, and was on a part which I will not be reusing. And even then, there was a complete circle of solder, just not as even as it should have been. It was about 3mm wide at the narrowest section.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Chauncey »

I just grab one of those weldless bulkheads for pot lids. Made a few stock pot stills for friends before and back in my early days for myself. Hate soldering thin stainless.

Good on ya for improving it. Next upgrade is a keg, man. :P :P

Neat lil condenser, like that!
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by ThomasBrewer »

Chauncey wrote: Tue Nov 08, 2022 7:01 pm I just grab one of those weldless bulkheads for pot lids. Made a few stock pot stills for friends before and back in my early days for myself. Hate soldering thin stainless.

Good on ya for improving it. Next upgrade is a keg, man. :P :P

Neat lil condenser, like that!
This is a great idea. A butt joint with solder is asking for trouble.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Yummyrum »

If you can manage to get a bit of a fillet happening , a butt soldered joint can be very strong .

This is a 1”BSP bush I soldered to my stainless boiler .It is super strong . I pick up the boiler full of liquid by using it as a handle at the bottom .It has never cracked or failed in many years .

Admittedly there was a flat section pressed into the boiler at that place that had a screw in element , so I guess that helped form the fillet .
My 30Litre SS boiler upside down
My 30Litre SS boiler upside down

Which kinda has me wondering .

Why not remove the pointless handle in the middle of your boiler lid and cut a hole and stick the ferrule there . Being slightly concave in the middle , will make a fine solder fillet .

You could use the existing hole as a thermometer port :esurprised:…….. Wait …. it could eventually be a thumper feed pipe
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

Yummyrum wrote: Wed Nov 09, 2022 1:22 am Why not remove the pointless handle in the middle of your boiler lid and cut a hole and stick the ferrule there .
I seriously considered that, Yummyrum. Actually, there’s a section in there that looks like it would be the perfect size to fit a stainless sink drain. Almost like it’s made to fit…

There are two reasons I didn’t go that way. One, I’m trying to keep this thing as low as practical. The boiler is already pretty tall, and since I run it in the kitchen for the manner, I’m trying to keep it from blocking access to things above it. These ferrules are shorter than the combination of a sink drain and adapter.

Two, I already had two holes in the lid, and both of them need patching somehow. Might as well do the job with a ferrule, right? As you said, they could always be used for a thermometer, a thumper, maybe even an agitator.. I have plenty of funny ideas.

And I did make sure that I’m not eliminating that possibility for the future. But for now, it made the most sense to my mind to just go with what was already there. I would like to get rid of that silly handle, though…
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

What a difference the right flux makes!!

Just because I had nothing better to do, I tried making my own flux out of what I had on hand. Just…. Don’t.

Because I was in a hurry and neater to get some work done while I had a little down time, I tried using the only flux that I could get delivered quickly. US Forge liquid flux. Nope!

I finally got what I was waiting on. Harris Stay-Clean. That worked a great!! Gentle (as gentle as something that will sear flesh can be) heat from a MAPP torch, and pretty soon I had solder flowing like it’s supposed to. I’m afraid I’ve forgotten who recommended it (still-stirrin?), but thank you!
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I still need to clean up and test the joints, but that’s a nice step forward.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by bcook608 »

Yummyrum wrote: Wed Nov 09, 2022 1:22 am Why not remove the pointless handle in the middle of your boiler lid and cut a hole and stick the ferrule there . Being slightly concave in the middle , will make a fine solder fillet.
That's exactly what I did with mine, Yummy. The only downfall that I have is that the head on my still is super heavy so it wobbles a little bit on the thin lid and I have to use spring clamps in addition to the 4 locking clamps the pot came with.

I did manage to get a free 5 gallon keg so that will be converted into my new small boiler and I'll be working on a half barrel for my medium boiler.

Steve, your setup is looking mighty fine!
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

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I got a little time to play this morning, before work called and I had to drop everything and go. Just enough time to get the soldering done and clean everything up.
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I’m pretty happy with how these turned out. After soldering, I used a 1 3/8” hole saw to cut away the excess pot lid and open the hole. A little sanding, scrubbing, and debuting, and I’ve got something I’m not ashamed to show off.
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To answer a couple concerns..

The hole saw is just barely able to fit inside the ferrule. I found that if I wasn’t careful to line it up perfectly, it dug into the metal, and could even bind and stall the drill. DeWalt 1/2” corded drill.. not the most powerful in the world but no wimp either. I was holding the lid in my hand, and with the hole saw binding in the ferrule, nothing broke. That doesn’t address stress fractures over time, of course, but I’d say that the solder joint seems pretty darn strong to me.

I was careful not to directly heat the thin sheet metal, though of course I made no effort to protect it from the flame. I heated both the ferrule and the iron reducer just until the solder melted, doing my best not to point the flame at the flux or the joint itself. It worked beautifully, easily wicking the solder into the joint and making a nice bead on both sides of the joint.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

The shotgun also soldered beautifully. Just to be sure, influxes and soldered both of the seams, from inside and outside. I don’t think I needed to, because the 1” copper pipe was already well tinned and solder wicked in easily. I’m content that this thing isn’t going anywhere unless I want it to!
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And just to show that it works, I took the spout off the end while running a steam test.
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Re: Vevor clone: The Improvening

Post by Steve Broady »

Speaking of a steam test, I had just set up for that when work called.
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This makes me happy. It looks so much better than it did before I started this process.
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The steam test was a success. I got clear water out by just barely cracking the tap on the condenser. If there are any leaks, I can’t find them. Considering all the changes, and the horror stories I’ve heard about PTFE gaskets, I was expecting some minor leaks, but there were none. It seems more sturdy that it was before, as well.

And as a nice bonus, everything now fits inside the boiler for storage.
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