Using stainless steel fermenter as boiler?

[AppleWood50]

Just curious, could the large stainless steel fermenters be used as a pot still boiler?

Particularly the ones by Polsinelli. The 100 litre ones are only €119.

https://www.polsinelli.it/en/refrigerat ... -P2994.htm

They are made from 18/10 stainless steel and are much thicker and stronger than the previous digiboil that I've used in the past as a boiler.

I imagine you could easily remove the 1/2 inch tap and install a weldless heating element into the side via a bulkhead.

2 inch tri clamp compression fitting put in the lid going up to a 2 inch copper riser, bend and shotgun condenser.

What do you all think?

[Demy]

I think that in general it could do (except for the silicone seal in the lid). If I may advise, Polsinelli also sells oil kegs, with screw tops...I'd use those (I've thought about this in the past).

[Salt Must Flow]

The conical bottom would be AWESOME! After fermentation, crack the valve and all the settled solids go away.

[Stonecutter]

The conical bottom would be AWESOME! After fermentation, crack the valve and all the settled solids go away.

Conicals are great for fermenting. Not sure how you would use it as a boiler. Maybe someone will invent an oil jacketed conical or something.

[Salt Must Flow]

The conical bottom would be AWESOME! After fermentation, crack the valve and all the settled solids go away.

Conicals are great for fermenting. Not sure how you would use it as a boiler. Maybe someone will invent an oil jacketed conical or something.

Depending on the diameter, I imagine a ferrule could be welded horizontally at some point within the cone. If an element could fit there, the element would heat it.

[shadylane]

...and install a weldless heating element into the side via a bulkhead

What do you all think?

Use bulkhead fittings for everything.
I recently used a 2" triclamp bulkhead fitting.
It was alot easier than welding.

Plus 1 on what Demy said about a screw top.

[Steve Broady]

I see they also sell chestnut barrels. Has anyone tried that for aging spirits, and if so how does it do long term?

Just out of curiosity, I requested a quote for shipping to the US. I can't imagine it'll be cheap!

[Salt Must Flow]

I see they also sell chestnut barrels. Has anyone tried that for aging spirits, and if so how does it do long term?

Just out of curiosity, I requested a quote for shipping to the US. I can't imagine it'll be cheap!

Click here.

[Stonecutter]

Depending on the diameter, I imagine a ferrule could be welded horizontally at some point within the cone. If an element could fit there, the element would heat it.

Well you can certainly get them with tc fittings. Already attached. This Spike fermenter comes with a 2” dump valve and a 1.5” racking valve above it. There’s 9.5” of clearance at that 1.5” port. So I do believe an element would fit fine in this one. The other side of that coin is that……

The conical bottom would be AWESOME! After fermentation, crack the valve and all the settled solids go away.

Unfortunately it’s not that easy. The all molasses ferment I just striped was by far the easiest to dump the trub with. Shady’s shine sits in there like cement with the valve fully open. Even after rinsing out the conical the trub can easily hold back a half gallon of water. I can only assume AG mash muck would be even worse. With a full ferment it very well might push all that crap out but it does come out like a fire hose…

[Salt Must Flow]

Depending on the diameter, I imagine a ferrule could be welded horizontally at some point within the cone. If an element could fit there, the element would heat it.

6DCE5F27-E4E8-490B-A6F0-30B76704621D.jpeg

Well you can certainly get them with tc fittings. Already attached. This Spike fermenter comes with a 2” dump valve and a 1.5” racking valve above it. There’s 9.5” of clearance at that 1.5” port. So I do believe an element would fit fine in this one. The other side of that coin is that……

The conical bottom would be AWESOME! After fermentation, crack the valve and all the settled solids go away.

Unfortunately it’s not that easy. The all molasses ferment I just striped was by far the easiest to dump the trub with. Shady’s shine sits in there like cement with the valve fully open. Even after rinsing out the conical the trub can easily hold back a half gallon of water. I can only assume AG mash muck would be even worse. With a full ferment it very well might push all that crap out but it does come out like a fire hose…

One of the Dernord ULWD elements I use requires 14" of clearance. My Camco ULWD element need just under 13.5". Unfortunately the most common elements won't fit.

That's insane about the trub getting packed up at the base of a conical fermenter with such a steep angle. I've never used a conical fermenter, but I have a couple of Separatory Funnels. I guess there's a big difference between using them an a conical fermenter. Well I'll stop admiring conical fermenters then damn. I always thought those would be the cat's ass. This may have killed my dream

Do you even think it's possible to force them to work? Like by pouring melted butter around the outer perimeter of the cone, collect the excess through the valve and create a thin film coating that 'might' reject adhesion?

[Stonecutter]

Do you even think it's possible to force them to work? Like by pouring melted butter around the outer perimeter of the cone, collect the excess through the valve and create a thin film coating that 'might' reject adhesion?

I’m sure one could finagle a means to an end. I’ve used a screwdriver in many ways other than what the manufacturer intended.The conical is just another tool. It works incredibly well as a fermenter, as a boiler…. Probably not.

[Salt Must Flow]

Do you even think it's possible to force them to work? Like by pouring melted butter around the outer perimeter of the cone, collect the excess through the valve and create a thin film coating that 'might' reject adhesion?

I’m sure one could finagle a means to an end. I’ve used a screwdriver in many ways other than what the manufacturer intended.The conical is just another tool. It works incredibly well as a fermenter, as a boiler…. Probably not.

Wait ... so just how does it work "incredibly well as a fermenter" then? I thought you just shat all over on it working as a fermenter because the entire point of a conical bottom fermenter is that it allows it to work just like a Separatory Funnel to drain the trub off the bottom. Does it or does it not do that?

[Stonecutter]

C’mon man. We’re talking about using the conical as a boiler here. The subtle nuances and intricacies between fermenters and boilers are numerous are they not?
So like, I rack off the 1.5” butterfly valve into the boiler through a riptide pump.
Once she’s empty my Wife and I carry it from a spare bedroom and into the walk in shower. With a 40 gallon capacity, the SS conical is not so much heavy as it is awkward at this point.
Once inside the shower I can rinse and sanitize with ease.
It works great as a fermenter.

[AppleWood50]

Yeah, I hate to burst anyones bubble but you all got the wrong idea. The 100 lt stainless steel fermenters that I linked to here made by Polsinelli are NOT conicals. They have rounded edges around the base for easy cleaning but the base is FLAT.

[Demy]

I see they also sell chestnut barrels. Has anyone tried that for aging spirits, and if so how does it do long term?

Just out of curiosity, I requested a quote for shipping to the US. I can't imagine it'll be cheap!

I didn't use chestnut barrels on the distillate but only for the wine.....but I used chestnut in glass jars, I really like the aroma of this wood. It is also generally more porous than oak, in fact many wine barrels are lined internally with wax to limit the wine/wood interaction

[Dancing4dan]

Yeah, I hate to burst anyones bubble but you all got the wrong idea. The 100 lt stainless steel fermenters that I linked to here made by Polsinelli are NOT conicals. They have rounded edges around the base for easy cleaning but the base is FLAT.

The link in the original post leads to a conical fermenter….

The pictures in the original post are of flat bottom SS vessels.

What you are asking can be done.

My 20 gallon Anvil pot is used as mash tun, fermenter and steam distillation on grain for the same batch. To do so the lid requires a gasket. Gasket is easily accomplished by wrapping a leather treadle sewing machine belt with Teflon tape.

The same 20 gallon pot is used as mash tun, fermenter with a BIAB. After fermentation beer is racked off. Dump the trub. Then set the pot up as still boiler with electric element. 2” ferrule on lid and another for an element.

Don’t see any reason the vessel pictures in the original post couldn’t be used same way.