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I've got a 220v controller for a 5500watt element for my keg still. It's relatively simple;



I'm working now on a kettle upgrade, going to invert a keg, put in a heating element and probably a temperature probe. I'd like the heating element to be able to hold a constant mash temp. I know homebrewers do this, and there are many all-in-one options out there.

But since I've already got a box to control power to the heating element, is there like an in-line device I can add, to help me achieve what I'm wanting?

I'm seeing possible 120v boxes for $100-200 that seem to be what I want, but offer extras like pump power. Also they are pretty much all 120v.

It's not terrible if I just have to manually adjust, but wanted to see if anyone had an idea.



Auber offers an EZBoil: https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=560
and Inkbird has a similar, cheaper version ITC-106vh :
Am I right in thinking I could put one of those in a box, run a cord through it, and splice it into said 220v cord? Then it would go between the power supply and the power controller I already made?

I build my own controller, 2 SRC's for running stills and a PID to mash and brew beer all in one box with isolaters to the different outlets. Currently I use the PID ONLY as a kettle temp probe. When I mash and brew I use the SCR to control the mash temp and boil. It gives me better response time and I do not have to wait for a PID feedback. But then again it is much hands-on you have to be there to watch and react.

Edit, try it you will not be disappointed, unless you want full automation.

Setsumi wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 8:46 am I build my own controller, 2 SRC's for running stills and a PID to mash and brew beer all in one box with isolaters to the different outlets. Currently I use the PID ONLY as a kettle temp probe. When I mash and brew I use the SCR to control the mash temp and boil. It gives me better response time and I do not have to wait for a PID feedback. But then again it is much hands-on you have to be there to watch and react.

Edit, try it you will not be disappointed, unless you want full automation.

Since I've already made my still controller box, I was hoping to make a smaller/cheaper control box for the mashing. Adding temperature control to my existing set-up without having to add more into the same box.

Yeah, not seeing alot online that wouldn't have me adding a SSR / heat sink / box, etc to something like the Auber Ezboil - which seems like a pretty solid little tool.

So since I'd rather not build a 2nd box, perhaps I can just find a spot for this Ez-Boil and wire it in with my controller, then by-pass it when using the controller for the still?

I think you are on the right track with the auber unit.

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=560

Then you will need a SSVR with a 0-5 V input instead of the potentiometer input you are using.

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=393

Then a platinum 100 ohm RTD for temperature. Auber has some nice cable kits for RTD's and panel mounted connectors.

zach wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 9:07 am I think you are on the right track with the auber unit.

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=560

Then you will need a SSVR with a 0-5 V input instead of the potentiometer input you are using.

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=393

Then a platinum 100 ohm RTD for temperature. Auber has some nice cable kits for RTD's and panel mounted connectors.

Would it be easier to just make a 2nd box? I've got an extra toggle switch and 220outlet, even fan. The Auber site says SSR not SSVR btw.

Did you build that controller yourself using a Still Dragon kit? If so, fantastic +10 job job on the fan vent. Very clean. It looks like you used a CNC router.

In the past I built a ridiculously complicated controller using the parts you have as well as a switch to swap control over to a PID controller. Shortly after I bought a Auber DSPR 400, a 40A SSR, an RTD Sensor, Panel Mount Connector (for RTD Sensor), RTD Extension Cable, green indicator light, Flashing Alarm Buzzer and a Alarm Kill Switch.

I reused most of the parts from the variable controller to make a deluxe 240V controller. The Auber DSPR works as a variable controller as well as a PID controller all in one little unit. It has multiple temp alarms and many smart setting that I never would have thought of and more features than I'll probably ever use. I've built multiple Auber PID controllers and they work great. I'd say build what you think is convenient for you.

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 10:26 am Did you build that controller yourself using a Still Dragon kit? If so, fantastic +10 job job on the fan vent. Very clean. It looks like you used a CNC router.

I did, wanted to program something cool for the vent fan holes, but couldn't think of a design I liked, so I just kept it simple. Used it for the other mounting holes as well.

I like your set-up, I priced pretty much a brand new controller out by them for like $175 which my beer friend may do, since he is moving to electric. But I've got a harder time swallowing that price to replace just looking at a gauge and adjusting the dial. Some people who have insulated well enough, say they only lose about a degree during a rest, so good insulation may be the KISS method.

BlueSasquatch wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 12:27 pm

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 10:26 am Did you build that controller yourself using a Still Dragon kit? If so, fantastic +10 job job on the fan vent. Very clean. It looks like you used a CNC router.

I did, wanted to program something cool for the vent fan holes, but couldn't think of a design I liked, so I just kept it simple. Used it for the other mounting holes as well.

I like your set-up, I priced pretty much a brand new controller out by them for like $175 which my beer friend may do, since he is moving to electric. But I've got a harder time swallowing that price to replace just looking at a gauge and adjusting the dial. Some people who have insulated well enough, say they only lose about a degree during a rest, so good insulation may be the KISS method.

KISS insulation is a good idea. Plenty of people just insulate with great success.

I would just insulate like what Salt said. I tried running my still off a PID but it didn’t work well with a 5500W heater. IMHO you have to have an element that is less powerful to properly use a PID once everything is up to temp. Not too weak, and not too strong. I tried it once and gave up. Lol.

I used a 10 gallon cooler for my mash run when making beer. Now I am looking to get a 150 quart cooler and a brew bag if my experiments with malting my own corn and barley turn out well. If memory serves me, I think I would only lose about 1 degree Fahrenheit every hour in my cooler. I think that is plenty stable for an uncirculated mash tun. If I were you, I would try wrapping your keg in blankets or a sleeping bag before spending money on a controller.

BlueSasquatch wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 8:50 am

Setsumi wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 8:46 am I build my own controller, 2 SRC's for running stills and a PID to mash and brew beer all in one box with isolaters to the different outlets. Currently I use the PID ONLY as a kettle temp probe. When I mash and brew I use the SCR to control the mash temp and boil. It gives me better response time and I do not have to wait for a PID feedback. But then again it is much hands-on you have to be there to watch and react.

Edit, try it you will not be disappointed, unless you want full automation.

Since I've already made my still controller box, I was hoping to make a smaller/cheaper control box for the mashing. Adding temperature control to my existing set-up without having to add more into the same box.

I should have added I use a Brutus 2.0 to mash and brew. I see they call it a Kettle RIMS these days. The heater is in the water/wort in the boil kettle and circulate through the mash tun. I will not mash with an heater in the grains.

BlueSasquatch wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 8:27 am
I'm working now on a kettle upgrade, going to invert a keg, put in a heating element and probably a temperature probe. I'd like the heating element to be able to hold a constant mash temp. I know homebrewers do this, and there are many all-in-one options out there.

Brewer's deal with a water thin wort.
Directly heating a "mash" with electric elements is more difficult...
Some of us resort to using a Baine Marie.
Heat the water with electric then use the water to heat the mash.
As a side benefit, the Baine Marie also makes a good wort chiller.

If you want to go whole-hog, the DSPR400 is a great unit and SSRs are cheaper than SSVRs. The DSPR220 will save you $12 bucks at the loss of a couple relay outputs (which admittedly I haven't used, but could be handy to kick in a pump, separate coil, or an external alarm.)

Both have the same two mode setup. A mashing mode which will bring to a set temp and hold it, and a still mode that controls power.

Shady's on the ball re: direct heat and a mash full of grains. I use it to heat water to strike temp then unhook. Hits the temp every time. Added bonus, I could use it for mashing with my steam generator. Haven't tried that yet.

I say 'buy once, cry once' but it sounds like you've got a workable setup now. Reworking is always a bit painful. Insulating always give you more control! I like Reflectix and use velcro to make it easily removable.

Good luck!

TwoSheds