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Recently I've taken my 'good old 10L pot still' out of the kloset again. Have had good fun with it in the past, it basically taught me how to run a pot still and the results were quite enjoyable.
Now the time has come to upgrade this little potty starting with the assembly of a new, modulair, column using tri clamps. The current one I put together some 10 years ago out of what I could find around here for decent money, and also as a part of the shine romance I guess hilbilly-building
The liebig condenser I choose in the first place for sourcing reasons. However it also is a freaking good and simple design which has earned its stripes in the hobby. Yes a shotgun is nice and I might end up building one as well but is it really necessary knock-down power wise, I dont think so, let me know if you think otherwise. I started off with a smaller one and ended up making a bigger one for the stripping runs which has served me well.



So here is my plan/ idea,

- Assemble a 3'' column and connect the liebig for potstill mode
- Add a reflux condenser (dephlegmator) and bubble plates for enhanced experience
- Add a ball valve on the bottom of the boiler to drain backset, the fill point on top I did with the initial build

Obviousely the pot becomes a bit obsolete with all this power on top of it so my idea is to, in time, replace that with something bigger. Preferably 3 times bigger so I can use the old potty for the spirit run and the bigger pot to strip. They would complement eachoter this way.

Looking forward to hillbilly-re-build and work with copper again, I would also greatly appreciate your opinions tips and tricks as I don't assume to have all the answers here.

I like that lil still. The option of adding tri clamps is a good idea. Making it modular is great. It will allow you to set up in different configurations and be easier to set up and take down.
If you can find a keg boiler, that will be a big improvement. It will allow you to charge the still with a greater volume and be able to do bigger runs. For me this made cuts a lot easier. As well as ending up with more keeper product off the run.
Witch ever way you go I will be following your progress on your rebuild and maybe complete new build. Thanks for talking the time to share this with us. Good luck Sir.

Nothing like a good still build. Put as much copper in your build as you can. Looking forward to seeing how you do with this.

+1 on the keg boiler for large batches.

I also have a 10l small batch still to compliment my larger batch 16g boiler - It's not a 3:1 sized ration and if I were to add a dedicated spirit still I'd probably make it a bit larger than 3:1 so I could do a single strip and still be able to top the spirit still up with low-wines, feints, and some fresh wash... Maybe an eight gallon spirit still to complement the 16g boiler that regularly produces 5-6g low wines per strip run... Or run it somewhere between the 10l and the 16g...

The 10l works great for macerated recipes and can do two spirit runs for each strip on the larger boiler..

Love your 10l BTW! Very cool!

Cheers,
j

jonnys_spirit wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2023 8:13 am +1 on the keg boiler for large batches.

I also have a 10l small batch still to compliment my larger batch 16g boiler - It's not a 3:1 sized ration and if I were to add a dedicated spirit still I'd probably make it a bit larger than 3:1 so I could do a single strip and still be able to top the spirit still up with low-wines, feints, and some fresh wash... Maybe an eight gallon spirit still to complement the 16g boiler that regularly produces 5-6g low wines per strip run... Or run it somewhere between the 10l and the 16g...

The 10l works great for macerated recipes and can do two spirit runs for each strip on the larger boiler..

Love your 10l BTW! Very cool!

Cheers,
j

+1 on the copper boiler!!! I love it. Really wish I could find one like it. Maybe 8 gals. Would be perfect!!

Wildcats wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2023 10:01 am +1 on the copper boiler!!! I love it. Really wish I could find one like it. Maybe 8 gals. Would be perfect!!

Copper is easy enough to work with for soldering and forming. If you can find something to start with - Adding ports and tri-clamps would be a project but completely do-able..

Cheers,
j

Thanks for the kind words guys, nice to be part of the online workshop here, let's get this show on the road

jonnys_spirit wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2023 8:13 am +1 on the keg boiler for large batches.

The keg makes so much sense in every way, from using to cleaning to maintaining to modularity in building. Right side up or upside down (which I would prefer now) However, just walking trough the house I might have found the right vessle already... Strange that it never got my attention in this way, will send some pics later, got to negotioate with wifey first, maybe I'll invite her for a drink
Thanks for your ratio opinion, that also makes sense. Adding wash to the spirit run is a good option to have. My fermenter holds 3 strips now, they will return a full kettle for the spirit, give or take, hence my thinking in the 3:1 ratio.

Wildcats wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2023 7:34 am I like that lil still.

Thanks mate, so do I. It not being polished out gives it that nice moonshine look. I do appreciate nice and shiney copper as well and man are there some masterbuilders around here that can make museum worthy peaces. I'm not that guy but I enjoy being creative to functional, its almoast thereputical to work wit copper for me at some times
On sourcing a copper vessle, try finding old electric boilers if you have them around, where I'm from they are plenty and always have a copper vessle in them, you just have to dig it out. They come in varouise sizes here.

I been looking. Just haven't got lucky yet. If I don't get an old water heater boiler.... Then eventually I'm gonna build me a all copper boiler. Like the ones Corrine here in HD makes. Good luck with your project. Working with copper is therapeutic for me as well.

Often the scrapheap is your best friend when looking for these items.
That would be a heck of a project, making one yourself. Is there a topic of a selfmade vessle here? That would be more than interesting to see.

Looking forward to seeing what you create StillDre!

And I agree, a good sized Liebig really is all you need to get the job done, though I admire the guys who put the effort into building some of the pretty things shown on here.

Thanks Moose.
I just stumbled onto your liebig build topic. I'm having a similar challange connecting the liebig to the 2'' downcommer, think I might have a fitting for it as well.

StillDre wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2023 5:45 am Thanks Moose.
I just stumbled onto your liebig build topic. I'm having a similar challange connecting the liebig to the 2'' downcommer, think I might have a fitting for it as well.

Well, when you do come to stick things together, please let us have pics and words, we love a build here!

viewtopic.php?p=7164635#p7164635 this is a all copper boiler made by a member here on HD.

So I found some time to hobby around and started with the ball valve on the bottom of the kettle. I see that I do not take my own planning that serious as I am starting from the bottom now I guess thats why it is called hobby



As I mentioned I enjoy working with copper as it is so receptible to a very little amount of input. Just a small hammer and a (work?) table edge is enough to tap a little ''flange'' into the elbow. Just tapping gently while you keep on rotating does the trick. As the kettle is sphericale the flange does not need to be completley flat which is easyer to do imo. Now it is just a matter drilling a just big enough hole in the bottom of the kettle. I ended up filing it to size as the tighter the fit the lesser potential leakage. Now scrub down and clean all very well, flux and solder it together.



This makes so much sense to have on there, for some reason back then when I made the pot, I decided to do that later. Ofcourse I was having too much fun after to take it all apart again and create the tab.

The pre fun of this little update is already quite enjoyable, next I'll start on the column.

Nice work man, I had never bashed a flange over on copper until I started my build and it went better than I expected.

One day I'll put a set of legs and a bottom drain on a keg, and if I do, I'll try your method before I get a TC flange.

No more dumping out the top for you. Now you got a drain. Good on ya man.

Yeah that was a bit of a party stopper Wildcats. I often ended up leaving it overnight to cool down and start all over again. Now I can run properly.

MooseMan wrote: ↑Thu Aug 17, 2023 8:38 am One day I'll put a set of legs and a bottom drain on a keg, and if I do, I'll try your method before I get a TC flange.

Yes just try, I'm not a pro so I can't tell until what material thickness it works or not. But nothing ventured nothing gained

On the column:

Working with metric vs imperial requires a bit of puzzling here and there. I have ordered some 2'' and 3'' components which I am stoked about. I also wanted to carry on and already start on the column. I also wanted to continue and already started with the column. Now it's probably better or easier to wait until everything is in and see if and how it fits, but well... it tickles... So I went on and started fingers crossed!


I have found a nice, 76mm copper rain water drainage pipe that should more or less fit the 3'' tri-clamp ferrule At least that is my assumption as I do not know the exact measurements of the ferrule yet. I found a piece of flat copper lying around and I decided to 'flange' the pipe and solder it together. Again just over the edge of the table and tap it out bit by bit.


I wasn't sure how to go about with soldering it together. I figured it would probably be a bit more workable to solder the plate to the column first and then drill some holes and file it to the diameter of the pipe. I found out that the plate wobbles and bends a bit under the heat of the torch which made it a bit of a challenge to solder. I do not know if it would have been better of worse if the hole had already been in there


Using the pot and a piece of paper to trace the holes for the new flange and prepared some new butterfly nuts to make things a bit easyer to take apart for cleaning. The idea of tri-clamp is, in my opinion, to ditch the need for tools.

Working on the line arm:

Originally I had the idea to braze the copper to a 2'' ss ferrule and connect it this way. I had ordered a part in for that but that turned out to not be such a great fit as I had emagined, so the project was on hold for a bit.....

Then I was inspired to just dot the same as with the liquid outtake elbow, hammer it out untill it fits, so I went on and tried this and low and behold, it works just fine. I am very happy with the outcome, it holds pressure so its as safe as can be.


The end result:
All tools used: Next will be soldering the 3'' brass ferrule to the column, this also isnt exactly a snug fit so I'll have to chim a bit. When that is done I can go and dot the cleaning and sacrificial run...... Happy days.

Looks good man. FWI posting pictures to HD. If you use an external app like you have done.. instead of posting straight to HD. The pictures will be lost over the years. You know how when you see an old post that the picture is no longer available. Posting straight to HD.. your pictures will be here for years to come and not go away over time.
Thanks for sharing your progress. Looking forward to seeing how it goes on your sacrificial run. Have fun and stay safe

Allright man, thats a good tip! I was not aware that you can post directly, how does that work? I'll be happy to change all of them

Click the 'Full Editor & Preview' below where you post.

Below you'll see the 'Attachments' tab, click it.

Click 'Add files'. Select the file you wish to upload.

I typically place my cursor where I want the photo to be located within my post and click the 'Place inline' button.

Thanks, that works quite easy, will use that from now on

One more question, who moderates this topic generally? As I would like to update all the images on previous posts but cant edit all of them anymore it seems.

So recently I finally got to (trying to) finishing the column. For shims I just used two cut off rings and filled it up nicely with tin, lead free as usual. I pressure tested it with compressed air, and I've got to say it was not a succes straight on. I had to 'dotter' it twice but the result is pleasing.
I am now ready to start cleaning all and hobby on. I was also able to pick up a nice sight glass at a good price, as you can see richt bottom, so that is also really nice.
I haven't decided yet if I go for the bubble plates or dephleg. Plates are fun to watch but a depleg more practical in use is my assumption. Tips more than welcome

StillDre wrote: ↑Thu Sep 07, 2023 5:49 am I haven't decided yet if I go for the bubble plates or dephleg. Plates are fun to watch but a depleg more practical in use is my assumption. Tips more than welcome

You'd need plates/packing and some sort of reflux if you're after refluxing.

I use a short water jacketed vertical 1" liebig on my 10L for reflux and typically load the column/riser with botanicals or fruit of some sort to infuse. Reflux is minimal and I'm usually running a pre-cut base spirit.

I also get a good amount of passive reflux with a fairly tall riser and no forced reflux on a small boiler / larger riser setup like this. You might see similar behavior.

Cheers,
jonny

Yes that exactly what I would like to add as an option, reflux. My excuse, I see that I wasn't clear on that.

I guess what I meant is: Either spiral/ packing or deph./ bubble plate. Kinda leaning towards the second as I already have one sightglass.

Making some nice neutrals would be the aim here.

That's a nice solution you came too, what kind of knock down power did it have?

Cool looking still there Stilldre

StillDre wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 5:39 am …what kind of knock down power did it have?

It’s about a 6” vertical liebig water jacket RC - not the best but I’m not making neutral with this. 1” over 3/4” with a needle valve for fine control of the water flow. It knocks down the ~1500W hotplate if I open it up.

You can just see the vertical liebig RC above the column in this pic for reference.

If you’re after neutral I’d recommend a packed column over plates. This column is probably too short and fat for neutral but I will load it with various botanicals for infusion.

Cheers,
Jonny

StillDre wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2023 5:33 am
I would also greatly appreciate your opinions tips and tricks as I don't assume to have all the answers here.

Just a thought.
Don't modify the little copper pot too much.
Better to keep it running and start designing the next build.

Archee72 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 1:49 pm Cool looking still there Stilldre

Thank man It's becoming quite a frankenstill but I dig it.

shadylane wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 9:55 pm Don't modify the little copper pot too much.
Better to keep it running and start designing the next build.

Couldn't agree more, the little pot will remain the spirit still or so. Once the column is finished I'll be on the lookout for a decent size pot to accommodate the full potential of the column.

jonnys_spirit wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 5:06 pm You can just see the vertical liebig RC above the column in this pic for reference.

That is a awesome contraption you have assembled there, must be fun to work with. I guess you get some nice flavours out there?
I'm thinking of a gin basket for in the sight glass when running pot still mode.


I think all of this brings me to a RC (dephl), I guess its more preference than science as a spiral would also do the trick. I'll see if I can source some scrubbys and give that a try first before I invest in plates. That seems to be the best application for now.
If I run it with a sight glass and ad dephl. What would be the order of assembly, glass on top of dephl or other way around?