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I have a vodka guy that makes some amazing GNS. Truly the best GNS. Some say its the greatest in the tri-state area.
Im truly fortunate that it is absolutely neutral and perfectly suited for Gin.

Im looking for input from some of you fine experienced gentleman on how to choose (build/buy) a still for making Gin. I want a still just for the Gin part. so this will not be a double duty GNS still.

I understand that there are various ways to heat a still including 1) submerged heating element 2) steam Jacketed 3) propane 4) induction plate.

Im curious if the choice in heating will impart flavor on the macerated botanicals in the pot. I am leaning towards a heating element style but I have concerns that direct contact with the botanicals will cause some burnt charred flavors.

On the other side of the coin I'm assuming that a steam jacket is probably the safest since the heat is evenly distributed and there are no localized hotspots

With that said, I may be completely overthinking it and an element is perfectly safe. Thoughts? has anyone recognized a flavor change of a recipe based on the heating system?

Steam isn't necessary as botanicals won't burn onto the pot until you run it dry. You will shut the heat off before then.

I don't recall anyone posting about running botanicals with an exposed element. You go first.

I didn't trust an internal element so built a stovetop gin still using a saucepan and steamer from a charity shop and copper from a scrapyard. It only cost a few dollars and has made a lot of gin and a lot of different gins, Absinthe, Ouzo, etc.. It's been run on stoves, wood, gas and a solar dish.

NZChris wrote: ↑Mon Oct 02, 2023 4:51 pm Steam isn't necessary as botanicals won't burn onto the pot until you run it dry. You will shut the heat off before then.

I don't recall anyone posting about running botanicals with an exposed element. You go first.

I didn't trust an internal element so built a stovetop gin still using a saucepan and steamer from a charity shop and copper from a scrapyard. It only cost a few dollars and has made a lot of gin and a lot of different gins, Absinthe, Ouzo, etc.. It's been run on stoves, wood, gas and a solar dish.

Ok!, so it's not commonly done with a heating element?
That's what I thought but I came across this iStill video



He is running the iStill mini which at 51 min talks about it being ran with a heating element.

This made my head spin.

Your over thinking it.. . Build a simple pot still head with liebig condenser, use a stainless steal saucepan of a size of your choice to create the boiler.
Run it on gas...... simple cheap and will work as well as any of the blingy expensive things marketed on the Web.
Just my opinion, gin baskets and carter heads are way over rated.....mostly pushed by those making money from selling them.
Posted same time as Chris.

Use an internal element then. It's cheaper to run and less trouble than steam. Let us know how it goes.

NZChris wrote: ↑Mon Oct 02, 2023 5:24 pm Use an internal element then. It's cheaper to run and less trouble than steam. Let us know how it goes.

Make sure the element is SS or inconel.
Several years back, I was talking to a pro distiller In Indianapolis and he was using zinc plated elements. He said, "they only last a couple runs before failure".
All I could think about was zinc contaminating the gin he was selling at his bar.

Before failure, or before losing the zinc?

The zinc dissolved off my elements during their first three stripping runs, leaving me with copper elements to help with removing sulfides. That was over thirty years ago.

shadylane wrote: ↑Mon Oct 02, 2023 8:50 pm All I could think about was zinc contaminating the gin he was selling at his bar.

Im not sure that it would be a real problem Shady.
QUOTE " Zinc, a nutrient found throughout your body, helps your immune system and metabolism function. Zinc is also important to wound healing and your sense of taste and smell. With a varied diet, your body usually gets enough zinc."
QUOTE "You should not take high doses of zinc for more than a few days unless your doctor tells you to. Talk to your doctor before taking more than 40 mg of zinc per day and take breaks from zinc supplementation. During those breaks, get zinc from a well-balanced diet."

Having said that I'd rather my gin without a splash of zinc thanks.

Summon wrote: ↑Mon Oct 02, 2023 4:33 pm Im looking for input from some of you fine experienced gentleman on how to choose (build/buy) a still for making Gin. I want a still just for the Gin part. so this will not be a double duty GNS still.

I did the same as NZChris (And many others here) and built a small gin still from a stockpot, that I run on the stove in the house.
I got a bit funky and made an air cooled PC for mine, as it's more convenient for me in my kitchen.

I've since made another mini still for a friend with a simple copper riser and a short little Liebig. He loves it and runs all kinds of things in it.

Biggest issue I see with using an element is with the minimum amount you can distill .
If you look at Saltys topic about minimum amount to run in a T500 boiler , you get the impression that an internal element is going to dry fire on a typical Gin run
viewtopic.php?p=7764229#p7764229.

I think that is more a potential issue than burning Botanicals .

I had a tiny 5 litre Still spirits boiler that come with my very first Still . I removed the element , soldered a patch over the hole and run it on a single ring gas burner . That was perfect for making Gin . …. And no worries about leaving the element exposed .

I believe Heritage Distillery in Washington State makes their gin with an internal element. I designed a jacket to protect the element years ago and I believe StillDragon was developing it. The idea was a stainless perforated jacket that went over the element to keep the botanicals from resting on the heat element.

NZChris wrote: ↑Mon Oct 02, 2023 9:42 pm Before failure, or before losing the zinc?

The zinc dissolved off my elements during their first three stripping runs, leaving me with copper elements to help with removing sulfides. That was over thirty years ago.

He said the elements burned out.

I have never had a problem with submersible elements. Although I have never used any that run above 3.5kw. The offtake starts to taste a little baked and doggy at about 70% but by then you should have a lovely gin base and you can toss the tails in the next batch. I suppose if you are making a hardcore concentrate with a big soup of botanicals you might have some issues with burning but it's the cheapest simplest way to apply heat to a 40+ L boiler. Anything smaller than that would sit happily on a stove top or gas burner. To each their own!

Otis Modular Mini Mini Gin Still. His heating element is only 500W though.

I'm no gin expert, but if you're concerned, can't you bag your botanicals and hang/suspend it with cotton string inside the boiler?

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Fri Oct 06, 2023 8:09 am Otis Modular Mini Mini Gin Still. His heating element is only 500W though.

I'm no gin expert, but if you're concerned, can't you bag your botanicals and hang/suspend it with cotton string inside the boiler?

That little thing Otis made from spare bits and bobs is an inspiration, I love it.

If scorching botanicals on an element is a worry, make a "Sputnik" to sit in the boiler above the element.

4 lengths of threaded stainless bar, couple of nuts and a stainless colander.

But I still think a very small, dedicated gin still is the way to go.
I love mine.

Since you already have a good supply of GNS, a 3 gallon stainless milk can boiler on top of an inexpensive 1500W hotplate is a great way to go. For condenser I recommend one like the 2" diameter Stainless Steel Medium Product Shotgun condenser that Stilldragon makes.

Here's a picture of my gin setup with the 1500W hotplate under the boiler. I also have a gin basket but rarely use it.