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I have the 5 gal Vevor and I wanted to make an 8 gal pot still so I can hold a full 5 gal charge. I did all this research looking for the perfect 8 gal ss stock pot and lid, pricing out everything I need. My plan was to set it up the same as my Vervo because that's what I know and I'm use to. I was going to make a bigger condenser etc.

By the time I was done planning, it was too tall to fit under my stove hood. then I started thinking hot plate, so I did the resaerch for hot plates. In doing that, I realized an internal element would be better. I'm looking at the 110 v heater element with 2000w controller.

In looking into the heating elements and controllers I found the Mile High 2" SS pot still with 8 gal kettle. My husband saw me drooling...I mean looking at it and I think he's gonna get it for me for Christmas. (He got me the Vevor last year, but knew nothing about stills or if I'd even like it).

Anyway, looks like I have a lot of reading to do. I don't even know where to begin...It has this goose neck thing on the top and a lyne arm I think for a condenser. It talks about copper mesh...it's all Greek to me


Any advice or direction would be appreciated.

Hey!

There is some great triclamp ferule stuff to search for on aliexpress. teflon gaskets that fits well, and a bucket from "Dibosh". then all you need is a good induction plate (My goes down to 1000W without ever turning off, but up to 2000W and keeps power in that interval). The trick with the induction is that you get an "internal induction hotplate". A plate made for having inside the pot for cooking. The fluid gets all the heat and will never trip any temp sensors in the induction hot plate, it just runs for a four hour strip. Its all that i have dreamt it will be. No scorching, no scare for sediments or distilling on the grain. I am actually very surprised I havent seen such a setup here. But the hot plate limits the output. So I guess that is one thing, most of the pros here mash 200 litres at a time and strip 60 liters at 5000W or something. I wish a had the place and time for that. It will come, but as it is now, I have a very modular still, put down when not used and it is as compact as can be. While giving me stripping speeds in 2L /Hour.

That boiler will last you many years. Yes, you'll want some copper somewhere in the vapor path.
That liebig condenser will likely give you fits on a stripping run without massive amounts of cool water flowing through it. But it's easy enough to build a proper copper one.

Here is the advice I'd give. Spring for a 13 gallon one if you can. It'll likely be the last boiler you ever buy, and a great base for any future upgrades.

You're getting into the territory you should look at a keg and put together the still head out of pieces from Amazon.

Here's a recent thread with a keg setup for electric heat.
viewtopic.php?t=91132

Hi Sadie. Are you interested in a project to build one, or buy a complete still off the shelf? If you are looking to buy a complete unit I’m not gonna be able to help. If you are interested in building with parts you buy I can offer my opinions to ya.

https://pasteboard.co/qdqyA1wDmhf4.png
This is mine, and I quite like it!

There are way larger buckets from the same manufacturer that should work the same. Its like building lego, with off the shelf parts.
Just a seed for an idea, there are endless amounts of parts!

Which parts are you looking at and if you have any questions about them, just ask here.

I'll always say that DIY is usually the best way to go, but some people don't have any interest in making anything.

I took a look at that Mile Hi 8 gal milk can and it's like $375.00, yikes! You can make a really nice boiler out of a 7.5 gal keg for a LOT less than that and has a whole lot more convenient add-ons.

I took a look at that 2000W basic controller on Mile Hi and it's like $310.00 yikes! Anyone could build a hell of a controller for that much.

Just saying, if you assemble an entire still with ready-made components bought online, it could easily cost nearly $1,000 for just a basic pot still. If you found a keg, bought some relatively inexpensive fittings, made a product condenser and had a couple parts TIG welded for you, you could save a lot and have a better still in the end. Building a controller is really very easy too. There are at least a few different types of controllers that can be made, some less expensive than others. Some are really basic while others have some really convenient bells & whistles, options and some smart functions you may never end up using.

sadie33 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 3:06 pm
I'm looking at the 110 v heater element with 2000w controller.

Start with knowing your current, and future, power capabilities and heat sources. That will essentially drive the size of your boiler. Build your rig starting from there.

The mile hi welds that I have seen are top notch. Like Deplorable mentioned those milk-cans should last a lifetime.
I bought the whole 8 gallon setup from them (riser, condenser, element) but I ended up making my own riser/column from some copper I got on a trade and I built my own controller.
Long story short don’t rush this next step….
Get some blood spilling out of those orbital sockets and make a calculated decision
I rushed it and ended up spending my hard earned money on a lot of stuff that mostly sits in the corner collecting dust.
The members suggesting the DIY route ain’t doing it for their own benefit.

The heating element is a pretty obvious buy but seriously consider building as much as you can.

P.S.
You’ll probably find yourself wanting an even bigger setup for stripping. Ask me how I know

LordL wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 3:36 pm Hey!

There is some great triclamp ferule stuff to search for on aliexpress. teflon gaskets that fits well, and a bucket from "Dibosh". then all you need is a good induction plate (My goes down to 1000W without ever turning off, but up to 2000W and keeps power in that interval). The trick with the induction is that you get an "internal induction hotplate". A plate made for having inside the pot for cooking. The fluid gets all the heat and will never trip any temp sensors in the induction hot plate, it just runs for a four hour strip. Its all that i have dreamt it will be. No scorching, no scare for sediments or distilling on the grain. I am actually very surprised I havent seen such a setup here. But the hot plate limits the output. So I guess that is one thing, most of the pros here mash 200 litres at a time and strip 60 liters at 5000W or something. I wish a had the place and time for that. It will come, but as it is now, I have a very modular still, put down when not used and it is as compact as can be. While giving me stripping speeds in 2L /Hour.

I have not come across an internal induction hot plate yet. It sounds like it would lay flat on the bottom of the pot meaning I would not have to worry about the charge going below the heating element and burning out? That was a question I was going to ask Mile High, is how much of a charge do you need to cover the element.

Deplorable wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 3:38 pm That boiler will last you many years. Yes, you'll want some copper somewhere in the vapor path.
That liebig condenser will likely give you fits on a stripping run without massive amounts of cool water flowing through it. But it's easy enough to build a proper copper one.

Here is the advice I'd give. Spring for a 13 gallon one if you can. It'll likely be the last boiler you ever buy, and a great base for any future upgrades.

I don't think I want to go that big...ever. It took me about 4 hours to strip a 4 gal charge and about 5 hours for a 3 gal spirit run. then I had to clean up. I don't want to go longer than that.

I need to do more research on the whole copper in the vapor path. I am interested in making a neutral. I've done a little research on the reflux columns, but it's so confusing. I wish I understood things the first time I read them. It takes me a while. It seems like down the road if I wanted to add a reflux tower to this pot still, I could. but it also sounds like the goose neck thing on it does a little clearing of stuff when stuffed with the copper mesh and would make a better neutral than a regular pot still, but not as good as a reflux tower. I could be wrong though.

elbono wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 3:46 pm You're getting into the territory you should look at a keg and put together the still head out of pieces from Amazon.

Here's a recent thread with a keg setup for electric heat.
viewtopic.php?t=91132

thanks, everyone keeps telling me that, but I just don't like the look of the kegs (no offence to anyone here ).

OtisT wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 4:04 pm Hi Sadie. Are you interested in a project to build one, or buy a complete still off the shelf? If you are looking to buy a complete unit I’m not gonna be able to help. If you are interested in building with parts you buy I can offer my opinions to ya.

Originally I wanted to build one. I do have some welding experience (though it has been years). My husband does too, he has a mig welder. We both can solder pretty good (though I have never done SS).

But I think at this point he really wants to buy me the whole kit, which does look pretty nice.

Just my 2 cents worth:

I recently upgraded from an 8 gallon Vevor clone to a 15 gallon keg, running on 220V, and Al I can say is that I wish I’d done this from the start. I can strip 10 gallons of wash in under 4 hours, easily. The spirit run can take more or less as long as I like, because I’m running a simple controller which I built myself. My last one, on about 5 gallons of low wines, took around 8 hours from beginning to end of the whole process.

In my opinion, small batches are interesting to play with, but it’s a lot easier to make something decent if you make slightly more at a time. With that in mind, listen carefully to the advice here about going larger, either in a keg or something else. It doesn’t cost that much more to set up a 15 gallon boiler with a 220v element (which runs just fine on 110v), and it opens up plenty of possibilities for the future.

Don't get too wrapped up around time. It's all relative.
With my 13 gallon boiler, and 5500W internal element, stripping 10 gallons of 9% wash takes about 4.5 hours from power on to power off if I start slow to prevent puking. I can strip 20 gallons of wash on a Sunday. As long as you have a condenser that can knock down the vapor produced you can throw more power at it and cut the time dramatically.
A spirit run of around 6.5 gallons takes about 6 to 6.5 hours from first drips to shut down.

Neutral runs on the other hand are long days at the still.

Your output is limited in that Vevor still due to the small diameter of the riser and the condenser.
What you are going to find out very quickly is that when you go to a 2" diameter riser and a proper Liebig or even a shotgun condenser is that that little Chinese still is holding you back.
Here is something else to consider. The element placement in the 13 gallon milk can is low enough that you can still strip a small volume of wash, so if you only wanted to strip 5 gallons and be done in about 2.5 hours you'll still be fine.

sadie33 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 6:16 pm
Originally I wanted to build one. I do have some welding experience (though it has been years). My husband does too, he has a mig welder. We both can solder pretty good (though I have never done SS).

But I think at this point he really wants to buy me the whole kit, which does look pretty nice.

With that said, just buy the milk can and some copper and get busy. You'll be money ahead, and so glad you did.

oops redundant post

I don't think I want to go that big...ever. It took me about 4 hours to strip a 4 gal charge and about 5 hours for a 3 gal spirit run. then I had to clean up. I don't want to go longer than that.

It took that long because you're using 120V. That's it. That's your bottleneck restricting you to that size of boiler. I totally get it. 120V is weak and SLOW. Super slow to heat-up and a slower take-off rate. 240V is 4 times more powerful, 4 times faster when it comes to heat-up and when it comes to a spirit run, that's when the controller comes in most handy, to throttle the power to control your power input and take-off rate.

If you absolutely want to stick with 120V then you probably want to stick with a smaller boiler and smaller ferments.

thanks, everyone keeps telling me that, but I just don't like the look of the kegs (no offence to anyone here ).

No one with a keg boiler would ever take any offense. Technically it doesn't matter what your boiler looks like. You shouldn't even be able to see your boiler when in operation because it should be well insulated anyway. I wrap my boiler with a cotton sleeping bag to insulate it when in operation. I wouldn't care if I had a keg, a milk can, a purely fabricated boiler or anything else. They all function exactly the same regardless what they cost or what they look like. I've received a 7.5 gal keg for free, one I bought for $50 locally. I've paid approx $100 for a 15.5 gal keg, I received one for free, I bought one for $45 and bought some for some prices in between. I even acquired a heavy duty stainless drum for free. I acquired ALL of my boilers for significantly less than a single prefabricated Mile Hi boiler. The cost for modifications were a tiny fraction of the cost of a Mile Hi boiler and was not even a consideration. Cost savings and quality is all about logistics.

If money is no object then absolutely just click to buy.

As above, your current still is slowing you down.
Stripping time is dictated mostly by how much heating power is available, and how good your product condenser is.
Get those two things right and you start saving time both when stripping and on spirit runs.
Another thing to think about is that you can always run a small amount in a big boiler, but a small boiler has its limits.
Which ever way you go this hobby is time consuming.

Saltbush Bill wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 7:48 pm Which ever way you go this hobby is time consuming.

+1 You see it posted here often. "The hardest thing to put in a bottle is time."
The only way to put time in a bottle is to make way more than you can consume and share.

Like you, I have often said that I just don’t have the time for a 6-8 hour spirit run, let alone the multi-day runs that some guys here do regularly. My schedule rarely allows me that large a block of time to devote to one project, never mind having a very inquisitive child who wants to be involved in everything daddy is doing.

It takes me several months to find that block of time, but I can save up several stripping runs in that time, and be ready to go. The difference in quality and quantity makes it worth doing. So I hear your concerns, but I advise you to reconsider.

sadie33 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 5:57 pm

LordL wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 3:36 pm Hey!

There is some great triclamp ferule stuff to search for on aliexpress. teflon gaskets that fits well, and a bucket from "Dibosh". then all you need is a good induction plate (My goes down to 1000W without ever turning off, but up to 2000W and keeps power in that interval). The trick with the induction is that you get an "internal induction hotplate". A plate made for having inside the pot for cooking. The fluid gets all the heat and will never trip any temp sensors in the induction hot plate, it just runs for a four hour strip. Its all that i have dreamt it will be. No scorching, no scare for sediments or distilling on the grain. I am actually very surprised I havent seen such a setup here. But the hot plate limits the output. So I guess that is one thing, most of the pros here mash 200 litres at a time and strip 60 liters at 5000W or something. I wish a had the place and time for that. It will come, but as it is now, I have a very modular still, put down when not used and it is as compact as can be. While giving me stripping speeds in 2L /Hour.

I have not come across an internal induction hot plate yet. It sounds like it would lay flat on the bottom of the pot meaning I would not have to worry about the charge going below the heating element and burning out? That was a question I was going to ask Mile High, is how much of a charge do you need to cover the element.

I think I have one of these, or at least very similar:

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32980113 ... pt=glo2deu

You just buy one with a diameter that fits inside your boiler.
The induction heating plate will heat that up and in turn heat up the wash/mash. Without overheating the equipment, tripping thermostats.

sadie33 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 6:16 pm Originally I wanted to build one. I do have some welding experience (though it has been years). My husband does too, he has a mig welder. We both can solder pretty good (though I have never done SS).

But I think at this point he really wants to buy me the whole kit, which does look pretty nice.

Sadie, having read the whole thread so far and all of the very valid and helpful, but differing input, if like to add mine.

If your hubby wants to buy you an Xmas gift for your hobby, I think you should ask for the boiler only.
It will save a fair bit of money and you can buy everything else you need to build the still for far less in total, but this is the lesser reason I'm suggesting it.

You will have the perfect project that you can work on together, to build a pot still head and condenser and further down the line, a reflux column too maybe.

I would be so, so happy if my wife was interested in my hobby, so to have your husband actively involved in it with you is priceless.

A couple of questions if I may?

1. How high can you go, power wise where you live? As in, what is the highest amperage you have in your supply?
2. Can you get 240v?

Because the answers will dictate what you should buy, the more power you can supply, the bigger your boiler can be, the bigger your still pipework can be, and the faster you can run.

Food for thought.
I run a really well insulated 15g keg on electric, 2.5" pipework, and I can strip 10gal washes as fast as I can make 2 litres of gin on my little stovetop still in the kitchen.

Edit: double posted.
T

Hola, if I remember you right you live where it's cold, so building a still with your crime partner would make a good indoor project. Buy scrap copper pipe,a keg( you could make pretty cover for it and own it) the fitting you can buy here oakstills.com. electrical work causes a pause for some people. You can farm that out but buy the parts yourself. With enough triclamps you can build anything. I haven't soldered in 30 years,I just finished my PC with no leaks or serious burns.
Truthfully though,
now I have been buying parts for 6 months, if I had the money I would buy a complete pretty still for about 2k and be sitting on the back porch sipping some good rye whiskey wondering if I should have built my own still. Being on the other side of 70 has a lot to do with it.
Tōtō
The above post about knowing what you have available to power the boiler is one of the better ideas offered here.

Only thing I can add is to put as much copper in your still as you can. If the riser, lye arm, condenser are made from copper you don't have to mess with stuffing in copper mesh everytime you run. That's just me though. A lot of people would rather have stainless steel...
How ever you go.... I look forward to seeing your new set up. Moving up to a keg for me was what really helped me be able to make a better drop. The larger volume is very rewarding with cuts and a bigger keep.
Good luck.

Thanks for all the input and advice. there is a lot to think about here.

The funny thing is, the stuff I made with the cheap Vervo is amazing; or at least I think so. (so does my husband). Maybe I will keep going with the Vervo and see what a full season with that looks like. I didn't know what I was doing when I started and really only had a few months once I figured some of it out.

I was looking over my notes today on stripping and spirit runs and I rarely did more than a 2 or 3 gal charge. Not sure why that was, probably because I was only doing 5 gal ferments at a time. I couldn't fit the whole 5 gal in so I would split it in half and strip it, then run the two strips as a spirit.

which is what started this whole looking into an 8 gal-was to fit the whole 5 gal ferment.

stupid rabbit holes!!

thanks again guys!

One cool thing about having a relatively large boiler is it allows you to do a single stripping run. You can then load all of those low wines into the smaller boiler to do a single spirit run.

My research told me I needed to ferment enough for at least three stripping runs, so I found a fermenter big enough to do four. It’s still my most used fermenter over thirty years later. If you upgrade to 8g, you should still ferment enough for three stripping runs if you want to build up stock for aging.

NZChris wrote: ↑Sat Oct 28, 2023 4:17 pm My research told me I needed to ferment enough for at least three stripping runs, so I found a fermenter big enough to do four. It’s still my most used fermenter over thirty years later. If you upgrade to 8g, you should still ferment enough for three stripping runs if you want to build up stock for aging.

yes, agreed, even if I don't upgrade to an 8 gal this year. Last year I only fermented one 5 gal at a time which gave me small charges. I think only once did I fill my boiler to 4 gal. From that I got 2 gals of low wines for a spirit run of UJSSM. This year I plan on fermenting one thing at a time so I can do a full 4 gal charge on a spirit run. I have room for three 5 gal buckets (in my living room near my wood stove worked perfect last year). I am focusing on UJSSM, HBB and SBB's all molasses rum. I saved 1 gal of backset from each of those to use this year.

I will always have a UJSSM going to keep up with the generations.

It has been suggested before to get bigger fermenters, but I originally bought 5 gal buckets. Found out those weren't quite big enough so I got three 7 gal buckets. There is nothing wrong with them and they are basically brand new so I will use them for a while. Plus they are easy to hide and not so big in my living room. Not to mention easy to clean.