My Modular Steam Set Up

[Powder Monkey]

Many hours reading but infrequent poster. Just finished my first all grain whiskey run since last winter and thought there might be a few people interested in my set up. I don’t think there’s anything new here, but a compilation of various ideas I’ve gleaned from others on this site. Any questions ask. I certainly haven’t mastered this set up but am improving.

I mostly do all grain whiskey as I have a small farm with access to plenty of grain. I started out with the turkey fryer half barrel keg/pot/lie bag set up making mostly rum. Bought a mile high flute a few years ago and then added the second boiler for steam/ agitator and built the steam injector/manometer last winter. Many of the parts and agitator came from oakstills.

Main set up

My main drive to switch to steam was I hated straining grain goop plus I wanted more options to step mash rye/wheat/oats plus truely cook corn at higher temps for longer as I’m now committed to electric heating elements. I can also do pot/thump rum styles and add or subtract plates as needed, which is helpful for experimenting.

Steam injector

I distill in a barely heated insulated corner of my barn in winter (commonly below freezing), so running water for cooling has difficulty. I have since plumbed the barn in “functional” capacity but previously wanted to rely on a radiator recirculating system as shown in the pics. It performs adequately, probably undersized to get the full wattage capacity out of my still but manage to get good product. Depending on outdoor temps I can keep the cooling water in the 75 degree range. It is ran by a 1200g/hr pond pump and two fans. I’ve also hooked up a wort chiller which is helpful.

The manometer build is functional but wanted to have a modular “proof of concept” when I did it specifically for necessary height. The 1/2” tubing is a bit flexy and I’d rather used 3/4 but it is what I had lying around. The lower sight glass ensures I can monitor the water level as it boils off so I don’t fire the electric dry.

Mano

I also added a flow meter with thermometer so I can monitor deplag flow rate and water temp. I found this was somewhat helpful for consistency with needle valve replication as I’ve been improving my other distilling senses.

Deph

Overall Im happy with this set up. My list of grain bills/experiments is much greater than my current time available for this hobby. Probably a common problem…

[Powder Monkey]

I know there’s a few configurations for how the injector enters the pot. The 4” is overkill but does allow me to add additional water to the boiler easily without disassembling. I can also add grain slurry to the injector side during a cook if I’m adding small grains later after the corn is cooked.

I’m not great at metal working so This method also made fabrication easy and removable for cleaning. There is a blank 4” plate with 2” tri clamp where the injector meets the T. I had a friend weld the 1” threaded coupler on the underside of this for attaching the steam wand. This way it can be removed for cleaning.

The agitator is well worth the money. I can keep the whole works moving during mash in easily and helps with thick gooey rye etc. Also helps during cool down to fermentation temp.

I will also do the whole cook/mash/ferment/distill in the same pot, which simplifies everything. I do wish the stock drain hole were larger as the used mash will plug up if it is thick. I will likely enlarge the drain in the future.

The fan/radiator/pump set up isn’t anything too elaborate or sophisticated. I did buy a larger fan for more cooling power.

[Dancing4dan]

Nice setup. Always good to see another steam setup.

I mashed/ fermented and distilled in my un heated garage first couple years. Alberta winters.

Try running the agitation while draining the spent grain. Can help maintain grain in suspension while it drains.

Is your fan pushing or pulling air through the radiator? A fan shroud like in a car will help a lot to cool the radiator. Fans need to be up close to the radiator and shrouded for best effect.

I used a fish tank heater to keep my coolant reservoir just above freezing along with insulation.

[Yummyrum]

Thanks for posting PowderMonkey .Very nice setup .
I see there is an upper and lower sight glass in Manometer . How often do you get the water to rise up to the upper one ?

[tjsc5f]

That pot with the agitator is sweet! Too bad that mile hi stuff is so spendy.

[Powder Monkey]

Dancin4dan-Alberta winter…brr. Northern Michigan here. I’ve been making improvements for several years to make winter distilling space more tolerable. I was able to walk in an insulate a back corner shop area with electric heater to keep it just above freezing. There’s a wood stove to get it toasty for other projects. I plumbed water from the outdoor spicket with heat tape, added an electric water heater and sink and just completed a sump/french drain outside into my greenhouse space instead of waste water 5g bucket.

I used to do the trash can recirculate method but hauling all the water in and out through the snow was a pain.

I ferment in the brute trash barrels and use the aquarium heater for rum. I also made a fermentation chamber under my work counter with a temp controller and small space heater. I can roll the trash cans in and keep ferment temps in ideal range. This has been a real game changer. I have a future experiment with some lower temp yeasts for wintertime ferments so I don’t have to use as much heat. I currently use the fermPro 917 and 921 which are 80 degrees minimum.

As far as the agitation goes, I think ideally the shaft would be a bit longer for my set up. As it is theres probably 1/3 of the volume below the agitation level and once it drains the corn starts to settle. I use a spoon to keep stirring and it works okay but not perfect. I might try a finer corn grind to see if it makes a difference.

Fan shroud-a superb idea. This is a case of making something and then attempting multiple improvements when I should have just redesigned the whole thing. Currently the two fans the big one “pushes” air from the still side (warmer air not ideal) and the other pulls additional air through in an attempt to improve airflow. Since the radiator is near and above the still I’m basically cooling with the warmest air in the room.

I did use some cardboard and osb to make a baffle in a half assed attempt, but didn’t really make much difference. Ideally I’d like to make an exterior vent to pull in air from the unheated area, but want to make it independently circulated so the rest of my area stays nice and warm while I’m working. Maybe I’ll get to that next year…

[Powder Monkey]

Thanks for posting PowderMonkey .Very nice setup .
I see there is an upper and lower sight glass in Manometer . How often do you get the water to rise up to the upper one ?

The water got up to the top glass several times during my initial learning curve… plugged the wand holes from settling after putting it in the mash too early or settling overnight. I added more holes and smaller sizes, and now add the wand just before boiling temps and have had no issues. I add the water to the bottom of the lower sight glass and get essentially zero increase height during warm up/run. If it is increasing I know I’m plugged.

On the opposite end I’m more consistent than I should be on forgetting to vent the boiler when I turn off the element. So sucking some mash back into the wand has required the air compressor for cleaning but the Mano performs safety release as expected as the water just gets sucked in and the system eventually equalizes if I don’t catch my mistake.

[Powder Monkey]

That pot with the agitator is sweet! Too bad that mile hi stuff is so spendy.

The agitator is wonderful. It actually came from oak stills (china direct manufacture). Looks like you can currently order one for $400 shipped.

I had had never ordered anything from china direct. Limited options on bolt on 2” agitation, I saw a few threads for the few people that built them. There are some things I have no problem tackling and others I’d just rather work some OT and pay someone else. This was the latter.

I needed a bunch of other SS tri clamp items for the injector and their prices so much better than other options I couldn’t say no. I was a bit worried paypaling $ to a Chinese account but it went well and my items arrived quickly. As long as the order is under $800 it doesn’t need to be declared for customs fees.

That being said my second milk can came from mile high. It was less expensive than the oak stills one plus I got it when they had a 10% off sale and free shipping. Seems it cost about $550. Certainly not cheap but I look at all my equipment as something that will likely last my lifetime and kids can probably use after me so when spread out that far I’d say money well spent.

[zach]

Nice rig and write up Powder Monkey!

I'm envious of the agitator, as I pull the lid, and use a drill with a paddle, as I mash with steam.

Do you use the plated sections on the thumper with the steam injection for a one and done whisky ?

What is your boiler input KW, thumper volume, and time required from power on to steam production, then time to complete the run to power off?

Are the boiler and thumper the same size ?

[tjsc5f]

It actually came from oak stills

I've purchased several items from oak stills over the years and have never been disappointed with the quality.
As soon as I win the lottery, I'll be purchasing one of these along with the agitator from them

[Powder Monkey]

Nice rig and write up Powder Monkey!

I'm envious of the agitator, as I pull the lid, and use a drill with a paddle, as I mash with steam.

Do you use the plated sections on the thumper with the steam injection for a one and done whisky ?

What is your boiler input KW, thumper volume, and time required from power on to steam production, then time to complete the run to power off?

Are the boiler and thumper the same size ?

Added bonus for the agitator is I don’t fog up my glasses like I did with the drill paddle method!

I’ve settled on a one and done whiskey with three plates and tight cuts. I’ve done more plates, Ive done double pot, but this is where I’m currently happy for my product.

Two elements 4500w on/off and 5500 on a controller. I never run the controller full out for heat up just for an added margin of safety. So typical heat up is with 8500-9000. I’ll use the below calculator for ballpark time and adjust for schedule. Say start when I’m able and it’ll reach boiling during kids naptime or something convenient.

https://bloglocation.com/art/water-heat ... ergy-power

Both boilers are 26g. Sometimes I’m heating 10g sometimes 20 if I’m using water to start another mash while distilling, or to have more for clean up. So heat up varies but generally 35-45 min sometimes an hour. Our ground water can be 40F.

With those variables plus varying mash volumes, cooling capabilities and how hard I run it the run times are wildly variable. But for example I did a pot/thump run strip yesterday 20g rum wash, 8ish gallons in thump. Ran it about 5500w, radiator water temp was about 90 In latter half of run, which is higher than ideal but about as high as I’ll go. It took me 5-5.5 hrs start up to shut off