Voltage control of immersion heaters

[nano]

Will an SCR voltage control an appropriate load immersion element output or do I need amperage control via phase angle


Searches brought up recommendations for 110v set ups, so I think it will. But would appreciate confirmation and pros and cons of each.

(I know my way around Pi's and Arduino's stuff but am a chemist at heart, any sparky summation should serve superbly)

I can try to add specific links if it helps, but think the general question is probably enough. Let me know

EDIT Searches also pulled up diy phase angle options, id like to avoid that for now if I can, just wanted to show I did spend all morning "UTFSE" or whatever the acronym is.

[elbono]

Will an SCR voltage control an appropriate load immersion element output or do I need amperage control via phase angle

I'm not sure what your question is. A heater element will have a resistance (my 5500 watt 240v element is about 11 ohms) it will draw 22 amps at 240v. Resistance is the ratio of voltage to current.

If you control either voltage or current you have also controlled the other one unless you change heaters.

Look around in the related electrical accessories section you'll find lots of info.

[Yummyrum]

Those SCR voltage controllers are Phase angle controllers and as Elbono said, if you control the Voltage , the current will proportionally follow .

IE voltage controller is by default also a Current controller.

[still_stirrin]

Those SCR voltage controllers are Phase angle controllers and as Elbono said, if you control the Voltage , the current will proportionally follow .

IE voltage controller is by default also a Current controller.

True.

But bear in mind that voltage control alone does not mean it will provide the current draw needed for the resistive element. For example, a voltage controller may have limited current capacity even though you can regulate the voltage from nearly 0 VAC to “rail” voltage.

When you raise the voltage across a resistor (the heat element), the current will increase linearly with the voltage. But the regulator circuitry may not have the capacity to pass as much current as the circuit demands. That would result in heat build up within the controller and eventually breakdown of the circuit, releasing the “smoke”.

So, be sure your voltage control circuit is adequately sized to pass the current needed at maximum voltage, plus at least a 10-20% margin of safety.

Keep in mind that the resistance in the heater element is constant for it’s rated voltage: V = I x R, so current (I) increases proportionally to voltage (V).
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P-V-I-R chart

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[nano]

Thank you all, sorry if it was worded weirdly (I was using the advertised names of "voltage" and "amperage" regulation in the description of the products I was considering)

I know basic electronics quite well, but I don't get some stuff,, like why my 110v well over 6 amp capacity timer won't let my 220v 600W HPS light work, seems like overkill gauge wires and a mechanical connection but even "always on" fails..... point being I like to confirm before I buy AC electrical components



TBH my research was all over the place, thanks to thise of you that pointed to other sections. I can wire a house, set up Arduino/Pi rgb stuff, and know the physics of electromagnetism well more than I need to, but this seems to be an odd gap that found it's way through my learning..... any recommended products would be appreciated as well.


A mix up with triclamp ferrule sizes and a budget change are sticking my with induction, a burner beneath the boiler, (electricity can be paid next month, a ferrule won't ship without money now) instead of immersion for my first few stripping runs back into the hobby

Our first batch (inspired by a prison recipe) turned into a fairly enjoyable orange wine so I need to get some birdwatchers going.

I will post here again before I purchase if that's OK

[Demy]

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