Home Distiller

Looking at this guy the 6.5K

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804928971438.html

The Dernord is a couple bucks more and used a lot here.

So this guy?

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832725388445.html

More money (quite a bit more) but I've been a customer here for a lot of years and everything he sells has been top notch. I use the 2100 watt version and have been very happy with it. The electrical connection is well done. No dragging a cord around when moving your boiler.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ ... ple_tc.htm

Homebrewer11777 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 04, 2024 10:55 am More money (quite a bit more) but I've been a customer here for a lot of years and everything he sells has been top notch. I use the 2100 watt version and have been very happy with it. The electrical connection is well done. No dragging a cord around when moving your boiler.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ ... ple_tc.htm

these look interesting but I already soldered a 2" TC to the bottom of the keg.

Wow I didn't know they sold Dernord elements on AliExpress. Those are $60 on Amazon. I own two of them. I really like Dernord elements.

I’ve been using a 6 kW triclamp element for a while now, and I’m very happy with it. Not sure of the brand. When I started building the new still, I bought another similar one.

And then it was pointed out to me that I was being a bit dumb. A triclamp to 1” NPT adapter and a standard water heater element cost significantly less together than the triclamp element alone, and it opens up possibilities to use other readily available and inexpensive elements in the future. So from now on, that’s what I’ll be doing. And what I did when I realized that I needed a different element in the new still.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0t1zt5

Steve Broady wrote: ↑Thu Dec 05, 2024 6:30 am I’ve been using a 6 kW triclamp element for a while now, and I’m very happy with it. Not sure of the brand. When I started building the new still, I bought another similar one.

And then it was pointed out to me that I was being a bit dumb. A triclamp to 1” NPT adapter and a standard water heater element cost significantly less together than the triclamp element alone, and it opens up possibilities to use other readily available and inexpensive elements in the future. So from now on, that’s what I’ll be doing. And what I did when I realized that I needed a different element in the new still.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0t1zt5

i thought the idea was these wavy folded stainless ones are a lower watt density which is preferable for brewing and distilling?

tho honestly I would most likely use it only with low wines and for steam generation so maybe low density isn't an issue?

i do like significantly less costs

Steve Broady wrote: ↑Thu Dec 05, 2024 6:30 am And then it was pointed out to me that I was being a bit dumb. A triclamp to 1” NPT adapter and a standard water heater element cost significantly less together than the triclamp element alone, and it opens up possibilities to use other readily available and inexpensive elements in the future. So from now on, that’s what I’ll be doing. And what I did when I realized that I needed a different element in the new still.

Dernord elements and other similar ULWD elements are a bargain for what they provide. They are Tri-Clamp compatible, do not rust at the base, even the element is plated, they come with an element guard and have a proven track record.

Typical hot water heater elements rust where the element meets the base. Even the ULWD elements intended for hot water heaters rust like that. Like many others, I even own one and mine rusts. For that reason Camco came out with a stainless steel version that doesn't rust (for brewers if I recall correctly). Those are over priced compared to Dernord and other similar elements.

Typical hot water heater elements have exposed connections and need an element guard. Still Dragon came out with an element guard kit many years ago, but those are now over priced in comparison to Dernord and other similar elements. This style doesn't need an element guard, eliminates the need of a male Twist Lock plug, but costs a few bucks more.

Hot water heater elements are 1" NPS thread. Not ideal to use with 1" NPT thread.

I just don't see any advantage to using any common hot water heater element these days when elements like Dernord or similar exist.

My 2 cents worth on heating elements. Buy once, cry once.
Get good quality and something with a guard and cord strain relief.
Definitely avoid the zinc plated elements.

I use old school zinc plated elements. By the time my first three stripping runs are done, the zinc is gone exposing the copper.

I don't like the idea of zinc leaching into the wash during a run.
Also, once the zinc is gone only copper is left and it's not as durable as stainless steel or Inconel.
Long story short, a wash is acidic, and it dissolves the protective zinc coating very quickly.

On a side note.
The ground fault begins to trip out after a couple runs when using old school zinc coated elements. Don't know exactly why, most likely it's due to corrosion on the electrical end of the cheaper elements, but I figure it's enough of a safety thing to not use them.

shadylane wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2024 4:42 pm I don't like the idea of zinc leaching into the wash during a run.
Also, once the zinc is gone only copper is left and it's not as durable as stainless steel or Inconel.
Long story short, a wash is acidic, and it dissolves the protective zinc coating very quickly.

On a side note.
The ground fault begins to trip out after a couple runs when using old school zinc coated elements. Don't know exactly why, most likely it's due to corrosion on the electrical end of the cheaper elements, but I figure it's enough of a safety thing to not use them.

One of my current elements has been used for distilling for over thirty years, the other not much less. Going by their attrition rate, I have far more spares than I will need in my lifetime. The zinc has been gone from both of them for over three decades.