Final check before construction

Vapor, Liquid or Cooling Management. Flutes, plates, etc.

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Fredistiller
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Final check before construction

Post by Fredistiller »

Hi everyone!

I'm a potstill guy, but after 10 years in this hobby, I would like to discover the fun part of distilling neutral. Therefore, I would like to make my own column.


If you would be kind enough to check my design, so I'm sure I didn't miss something important before I start constructing my column, that would be great!


Here some details:

-After the mandatory reading, I decided to go for a VM.
-Everything will be made in SS (norm DIN 2463, mm are rounded). I'll use some copper at the bottom of the column.
-Pot: 2000W-220V
-Column: 1250mm x 60mm. (H=21xdiam) Filled with SS scrubbers (later maybe with SPP), connecting my already existing product condenser.
-Sweeptee: 2"-60mm to 1"-33mm to 1/2-22mm. See picture.
-Gate valve 1/2". I plan to mount this gate vale horizontally: https://shop.eriks.be/en/valves-and-act ... -11813313/

The ceiling of my basement is quite low,that's why I choose for a horizontal condenser:
Diam 2"1/2-76mm, filled with 19 pipes diam 1/4"-10mm (1.5mmthick), length 300mm. (air vent 10mm).
From what I could calculate with the help of the parent site the reflux condenser would do, but should I make it longer?


So what you all think about it?

Cheers!
Fred
VM build (1).png
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Salt Must Flow
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Salt Must Flow »

In the drawing the boiler appears to be a good bit off the floor. Are you planning on heating with gas/flame? If so, I would SERIOUSLY consider going electric just for safety. Also if you go electric, the boiler can be much lower to the ground allowing for a taller column and/or a much less complicated reflux condenser.

Can you give us a couple of dimensions? What's the measurement from floor to ceiling? What's the height of your boiler?

My 3" VM uses a 1" gate valve. You should be able to use a 3/4" gate valve. Any smaller could be smaller than you might want.

I would search around to see if you can find stainless steel exhaust pipe. Here in the US it is available online and is a SIGNIFICANT cost savings for building a stainless reflux column. The OD matches Tri-Clamp ferrules perfectly. The ID is slightly smaller, but that doesn't cause any issues. Just for fun I used a Die Grinder and ground the tiny little lip tapered so it wouldn't inhibit sliding rolls of copper mesh through it.

4 in Pipe 02.jpg
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Yummyrum
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Yummyrum »

My gut feeling is it should work just fine . You’ve shown RC as 320mm long . I would think end caps for water feed are extra .
You could probably run it with maybe 700-800 w more power being 60mm if you wanted .

Have you an atmosphere vent at either end of the RC ? Thats mandatory for safety .

The 45° on the vapor takeoff is probably not nessecary unless you are worried about reflux dribbling into the takeoff port , but nobody normally worries about it .

EDIT : is this the vent ?
IMG_3416.jpeg
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Fredistiller
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Fredistiller »

Hey Rummy,

Yes, "condensation chamber" will be 300mm long plus 10mm left- right for feeding water.
Unfortunately, I can not go over 2000w with my electrical installation.

Thanks for the 2nd atmosphere vent! Yes the 10mm is where it'll vent. I'll add a second one.

About the 45° vapour take off, I thought a sweeptee would be the best option. Anyway I'll cut all the pipes with our laser cutter. So I can easily adapt the 60mm perpendiculary to the 76mm. The hole for the vape outlet being round (for a 90°outlet) or oval (45°) doesn't make any difference.

What is your thought about the gate valve, 21mm or 34mm?
Thanks for your response!
Fred.
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Yummyrum
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Yummyrum »

Either or Fredistiller. But since 2000w is the limit , I’d probably go the 21 mm.
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Fredistiller
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Fredistiller »

Yummyrum wrote: ↑Mon Nov 24, 2025 6:06 am Either or Fredistiller. But since 2000w is the limit , I’d probably go the 21 mm.
Thanks! Last question, is it okay if I put it horizontally?
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Tammuz
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Tammuz »

If you haven't made your condenser yet you might consider throwing a copper coil in there . Might be easier then soldering all those tubes in place.
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Fredistiller
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Fredistiller »

Salt and Tammuz,

I'm a team leader- welder and I can have all the stainless steel available in the workshop for the price of two peanuts, so it's easy for me.

About the height of my pot, it's drawn this way that I can put my bucket under the drain for a fast drainage.
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Salt Must Flow
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Salt Must Flow »

Fredistiller wrote: ↑Tue Nov 25, 2025 6:14 am Salt and Tammuz,

I'm a team leader- welder and I can have all the stainless steel available in the workshop for the price of two peanuts, so it's easy for me.

About the height of my pot, it's drawn this way that I can put my bucket under the drain for a fast drainage.
That makes sense. I connect a hose to to bottom drain and drain the boiler either out the door or down a floor drain. I like to have swiveling casters on all of my boilers so they can sit low as reasonably possible and moved around easily. The lower the boiler sits, the more overall height I have to work with. I can even roll the boiler over to the door and drain it right outside.

In a basement, without a floor drain or a lift pump or a sump pit, I imagine a bucket under the drain would be helpful. Some that have low boilers drain their boilers into a relatively shallow pan and use a cheap sump pump or relatively large submersible aquarium pump to transfer the spent wash where they need it to go.
SW_Shiner
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by SW_Shiner »

A 1/2" transfer pump can also work good. I used one to transfer hot water from boiler into fermenter.
decoy
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by decoy »

2c, The addition of a sightglass or portal windo just below the Condensor to see reflux return is very handy.
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Yummyrum
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Yummyrum »

decoy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 25, 2025 2:09 pm 2c, The addition of a sightglass or portal windo just below the Condensor to see reflux return is very handy.
Agree with that Decoy . It also lets you see if the column is flooding . On that note , you should leave a few inches above the packing before the takeoff port . Seeing as height is a major limiting factor , and space above packing will probably need to be minimised ( 2” where ideally you might have 4-6” ) I’m thinking your inclined 45° take off may actually be beneficial to allow any splashing out the top of the packing to run back to the column rather than piddle out the takeoff .
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Fredistiller
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Re: Final check before construction

Post by Fredistiller »

I thought that a portal window would be an unnecessary luxury, but I'll reconsider it for sure.
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