Final check before construction
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- Fredistiller
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:48 am
- Location: Somewhere in Europe
Final check before construction
Hi everyone!
I'm a potstill guy, but after 10 years in this hobby, I would like to discover the fun part of distilling neutral. Therefore, I would like to make my own column.
If you would be kind enough to check my design, so I'm sure I didn't miss something important before I start constructing my column, that would be great!
Here some details:
-After the mandatory reading, I decided to go for a VM.
-Everything will be made in SS (norm DIN 2463, mm are rounded). I'll use some copper at the bottom of the column.
-Pot: 2000W-220V
-Column: 1250mm x 60mm. (H=21xdiam) Filled with SS scrubbers (later maybe with SPP), connecting my already existing product condenser.
-Sweeptee: 2"-60mm to 1"-33mm to 1/2-22mm. See picture.
-Gate valve 1/2". I plan to mount this gate vale horizontally: https://shop.eriks.be/en/valves-and-act ... -11813313/
The ceiling of my basement is quite low,that's why I choose for a horizontal condenser:
Diam 2"1/2-76mm, filled with 19 pipes diam 1/4"-10mm (1.5mmthick), length 300mm. (air vent 10mm).
From what I could calculate with the help of the parent site the reflux condenser would do, but should I make it longer?
So what you all think about it?
Cheers!
Fred
I'm a potstill guy, but after 10 years in this hobby, I would like to discover the fun part of distilling neutral. Therefore, I would like to make my own column.
If you would be kind enough to check my design, so I'm sure I didn't miss something important before I start constructing my column, that would be great!
Here some details:
-After the mandatory reading, I decided to go for a VM.
-Everything will be made in SS (norm DIN 2463, mm are rounded). I'll use some copper at the bottom of the column.
-Pot: 2000W-220V
-Column: 1250mm x 60mm. (H=21xdiam) Filled with SS scrubbers (later maybe with SPP), connecting my already existing product condenser.
-Sweeptee: 2"-60mm to 1"-33mm to 1/2-22mm. See picture.
-Gate valve 1/2". I plan to mount this gate vale horizontally: https://shop.eriks.be/en/valves-and-act ... -11813313/
The ceiling of my basement is quite low,that's why I choose for a horizontal condenser:
Diam 2"1/2-76mm, filled with 19 pipes diam 1/4"-10mm (1.5mmthick), length 300mm. (air vent 10mm).
From what I could calculate with the help of the parent site the reflux condenser would do, but should I make it longer?
So what you all think about it?
Cheers!
Fred
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- Salt Must Flow
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 3149
- Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2022 2:06 pm
- Location: Wuhan China (Novel Coronavirus Laboratory)
Re: Final check before construction
In the drawing the boiler appears to be a good bit off the floor. Are you planning on heating with gas/flame? If so, I would SERIOUSLY consider going electric just for safety. Also if you go electric, the boiler can be much lower to the ground allowing for a taller column and/or a much less complicated reflux condenser.
Can you give us a couple of dimensions? What's the measurement from floor to ceiling? What's the height of your boiler?
My 3" VM uses a 1" gate valve. You should be able to use a 3/4" gate valve. Any smaller could be smaller than you might want.
I would search around to see if you can find stainless steel exhaust pipe. Here in the US it is available online and is a SIGNIFICANT cost savings for building a stainless reflux column. The OD matches Tri-Clamp ferrules perfectly. The ID is slightly smaller, but that doesn't cause any issues. Just for fun I used a Die Grinder and ground the tiny little lip tapered so it wouldn't inhibit sliding rolls of copper mesh through it.
Can you give us a couple of dimensions? What's the measurement from floor to ceiling? What's the height of your boiler?
My 3" VM uses a 1" gate valve. You should be able to use a 3/4" gate valve. Any smaller could be smaller than you might want.
I would search around to see if you can find stainless steel exhaust pipe. Here in the US it is available online and is a SIGNIFICANT cost savings for building a stainless reflux column. The OD matches Tri-Clamp ferrules perfectly. The ID is slightly smaller, but that doesn't cause any issues. Just for fun I used a Die Grinder and ground the tiny little lip tapered so it wouldn't inhibit sliding rolls of copper mesh through it.
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- Yummyrum
- Admin
- Posts: 10557
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:23 am
- Location: Fraser Coast QLD Aussie
Re: Final check before construction
My gut feeling is it should work just fine . You’ve shown RC as 320mm long . I would think end caps for water feed are extra .
You could probably run it with maybe 700-800 w more power being 60mm if you wanted .
Have you an atmosphere vent at either end of the RC ? Thats mandatory for safety .
The 45° on the vapor takeoff is probably not nessecary unless you are worried about reflux dribbling into the takeoff port , but nobody normally worries about it .
EDIT : is this the vent ?
You could probably run it with maybe 700-800 w more power being 60mm if you wanted .
Have you an atmosphere vent at either end of the RC ? Thats mandatory for safety .
The 45° on the vapor takeoff is probably not nessecary unless you are worried about reflux dribbling into the takeoff port , but nobody normally worries about it .
EDIT : is this the vent ?
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My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
- Fredistiller
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:48 am
- Location: Somewhere in Europe
Re: Final check before construction
Hey Rummy,
Yes, "condensation chamber" will be 300mm long plus 10mm left- right for feeding water.
Unfortunately, I can not go over 2000w with my electrical installation.
Thanks for the 2nd atmosphere vent! Yes the 10mm is where it'll vent. I'll add a second one.
About the 45° vapour take off, I thought a sweeptee would be the best option. Anyway I'll cut all the pipes with our laser cutter. So I can easily adapt the 60mm perpendiculary to the 76mm. The hole for the vape outlet being round (for a 90°outlet) or oval (45°) doesn't make any difference.
What is your thought about the gate valve, 21mm or 34mm?
Thanks for your response!
Fred.
Yes, "condensation chamber" will be 300mm long plus 10mm left- right for feeding water.
Unfortunately, I can not go over 2000w with my electrical installation.
Thanks for the 2nd atmosphere vent! Yes the 10mm is where it'll vent. I'll add a second one.
About the 45° vapour take off, I thought a sweeptee would be the best option. Anyway I'll cut all the pipes with our laser cutter. So I can easily adapt the 60mm perpendiculary to the 76mm. The hole for the vape outlet being round (for a 90°outlet) or oval (45°) doesn't make any difference.
What is your thought about the gate valve, 21mm or 34mm?
Thanks for your response!
Fred.
- Yummyrum
- Admin
- Posts: 10557
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:23 am
- Location: Fraser Coast QLD Aussie
Re: Final check before construction
Either or Fredistiller. But since 2000w is the limit , I’d probably go the 21 mm.
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
- Fredistiller
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:48 am
- Location: Somewhere in Europe
Re: Final check before construction
Thanks! Last question, is it okay if I put it horizontally?
- Tammuz
- Rumrunner
- Posts: 671
- Joined: Sat Sep 21, 2024 11:59 am
Re: Final check before construction
If you haven't made your condenser yet you might consider throwing a copper coil in there . Might be easier then soldering all those tubes in place.
Igitur qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum or party till the cows come home!
- Fredistiller
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:48 am
- Location: Somewhere in Europe
Re: Final check before construction
Salt and Tammuz,
I'm a team leader- welder and I can have all the stainless steel available in the workshop for the price of two peanuts, so it's easy for me.
About the height of my pot, it's drawn this way that I can put my bucket under the drain for a fast drainage.
I'm a team leader- welder and I can have all the stainless steel available in the workshop for the price of two peanuts, so it's easy for me.
About the height of my pot, it's drawn this way that I can put my bucket under the drain for a fast drainage.
- Salt Must Flow
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 3149
- Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2022 2:06 pm
- Location: Wuhan China (Novel Coronavirus Laboratory)
Re: Final check before construction
That makes sense. I connect a hose to to bottom drain and drain the boiler either out the door or down a floor drain. I like to have swiveling casters on all of my boilers so they can sit low as reasonably possible and moved around easily. The lower the boiler sits, the more overall height I have to work with. I can even roll the boiler over to the door and drain it right outside.Fredistiller wrote: ↑Tue Nov 25, 2025 6:14 am Salt and Tammuz,
I'm a team leader- welder and I can have all the stainless steel available in the workshop for the price of two peanuts, so it's easy for me.
About the height of my pot, it's drawn this way that I can put my bucket under the drain for a fast drainage.
In a basement, without a floor drain or a lift pump or a sump pit, I imagine a bucket under the drain would be helpful. Some that have low boilers drain their boilers into a relatively shallow pan and use a cheap sump pump or relatively large submersible aquarium pump to transfer the spent wash where they need it to go.
-
SW_Shiner
- Distiller
- Posts: 1002
- Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2024 3:46 pm
- Location: South Waikato, New Zealand
Re: Final check before construction
A 1/2" transfer pump can also work good. I used one to transfer hot water from boiler into fermenter.
-
decoy
- Trainee
- Posts: 772
- Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 4:21 pm
Re: Final check before construction
2c, The addition of a sightglass or portal windo just below the Condensor to see reflux return is very handy.
- Yummyrum
- Admin
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- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 2:23 am
- Location: Fraser Coast QLD Aussie
Re: Final check before construction
Agree with that Decoy . It also lets you see if the column is flooding . On that note , you should leave a few inches above the packing before the takeoff port . Seeing as height is a major limiting factor , and space above packing will probably need to be minimised ( 2” where ideally you might have 4-6” ) I’m thinking your inclined 45° take off may actually be beneficial to allow any splashing out the top of the packing to run back to the column rather than piddle out the takeoff .
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
- Fredistiller
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:48 am
- Location: Somewhere in Europe
Re: Final check before construction
I thought that a portal window would be an unnecessary luxury, but I'll reconsider it for sure.