Harrys GGGP Rum

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Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby duds2u » Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:45 pm

You will find it in Harry's web site

http://distillers.tastylime.net/library
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Postby CoopsOz » Thu Jun 14, 2007 2:05 am

Has anyone transcribed yet? I find it hard to read.
It is most absurdly said, in popular language, of any man, that he is disguised in liquor; for, on the contrary, most men are disguised by sobriety. ~Thomas de Quincy, Confessions of an English Opium-Eater, 1856
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Postby PUGIDOGS » Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:57 am

I have only cut and pasted from another forum. There are two different posts here, Hope you dont mind Harry and thank you, watch for cut...Pugi







How to make Rum out of Molasses and Brown sugar.

Take 4 gals molasses and 10 lbs sugar. Mix these together in 16
gals water. Now you commence setting mash in large wooden casks
(not in any tin vessels) - only a wooden cask for good results.
Put the above in cask the 1st day then when nearly cool add 1 ale
bottle full of yeast (which is to start mask working).
Remember when you put in the 4 gals molasses and the 10 lbs sugar
into cask - have a little paddle made for stirring and stir
constantly for fully 1/4 of an hour to blend things together, these
will be mixed in hot water (not boiling) but just so as you can put
your fingers in it without getting scalded.
The hot water will melt the sugar and molasses splendidly and will
give you more spirits and better rum.
After you're finished stirring the 1st days lot also boil 8 lbs of
old potatoes in muslin bag and put into the mash with yeast.
And also with the yeast and 8 lbs potatoes you boil about 3/4 of a
milk bucket of old maize in a sugar bag tied like a pudding and dont
forget to drop this in the 1st days mash with the potatoes and yeast
and again stirr well.
This finishes the 1st days mash and dont take them out till the mash
is fit to go into the boiler on the fire for distilling.

Second days setting.
Put another 4 gals molasses and 10 lbs sugar into cask on top of the
1st days setting and stir well for fully ten minutes. This finishes
the 2nd days setting.

Third days setting.
Add another 4 gals molasses and 16 gallons water (no sugar) and
again stir well (this finishes the setting of the mash).

To know when this is fit to put through you will see a little scum
of bubbles will come to the top now and again. This will continue
for two days sometimes three days then when scum is at its highest
and starts to drop (Brew it). Don't forget when you finish the 3rd
days setting to put a bag over the top of the cask then the lid
belonging to cask on top of bag and a weight on top of it to keep
warm and airtight. Have an occasional look at the cask when you
finish setting the 3rd day because it works sometimes in 36 hours
according to the hot or cold weather. In summer time it works a lot
quicker than winter so a good idea is to brew in the summer time and
stow away to get a bit of age so as it will not be too new to the
taste, then sell in winter time when rum is more freely drank.

Now to make good rum to sell you want to know when distilling when
to cut off the good rum from the second class stuff and the only way
to do this is to get a hydrometer. (High means good spirits, low
means poor spirits). You place this under the end of the worm in
whatever you are catching the spirits in and as this vessel starts
to get more than 1/2 full this hydrometer will start to float and
register whatever proof the spirits is that you are making.

Now you always want two vessels one to catch the good 1st class
spirits and immediately the hydrometer begins to register too low a
reading pull the 1st class vessel away and pop the 2nd vessel under
in its place to catch the 2nd class spirits. After a good while
just have a teaspoon with you and dip same into the the 2nd class
and throw a spoon full now and again into the fire and if it flares
up like kero or meths that would be thrown in keep on as this is a
sign there is still good 2nd hand spirits in the brew but after a
while when what you throw in fire quenches the fire like water stop
as this is the sign that you have taken all the spirits out of the
mash. Anyhow you can taste it and if it has an alumny taste draw
the charge from boiler and fill up again for another boil up.

Now the 2nd's have to be stowed away to themselves in a vessel and
all the good 1st class stuff put to themselves as this 1st class
brew is ready for sale without further distilling but in order to
bring the 2nd class stuff to 1st class you have to put it through
the still the 2nd time then it is 1st class and can now be stowed
away with the other 1st class brew.

Now the next thing to know is how to do up your white spirits and
tone it up for sale. Here is the rinkle. Aways put your spirits
away in a large cask, or a wine cask is the best as rum and wine
taste alike. Never put rum in a cask that beer has been in or you
will spoil its taste. When you put it in the wine cask leave the
bung hole open for 24 hours and as soon as you put it in the cask
make a small curtain bag and put about a match box full of cloves in
it and let down the bung hole tied with long piece of string so as
you can lift it out. Then get a good well ripened pineapple and
peel it and cut it in narrow strips about the length of a cigar and
twice as thick and poke these down the bung hole, then get about 3/4
of an ordinary teacup full of seeded raisins and put these down the
bung of cask into the spirits with the others, then put the bung
back in cask and stow it away. Then when you are ready to sell your
rum it is in its natural white state. Now you have to colour it for
sale. Now to properly colour rum use white sugar not brown because
it will make the rum too cloudy and dull and dark looking.

So in order to have a good clear clean bright looking spirit in a
glass for drinking always use white sugar for colouring purposes.
Buy a small frying pan for this purpose and dont use it for any
other means \because any greasy sediment will show in the coloured
spirit. To colour say 5 gals rum put about 1/2 teacup of white
sugar to start with in the pan, not over a blazing fire but on red
hot coals; these should not be too strong to overburn the sugar or
your rum will have a bad burnt taste so be careful and burn sugar to
a good clean dark brown bubble. Keep moving the sugar in the pan
with a long stirrer so as to evenly brown every grain then pour a
cup of cold water in the pan on top of sugar at the same time
stirring. When sufficiently stirred pour into a good clean bright
quart bottle for colouring with. Of course you keep on burning
sugar making bottles of the colouring till you have sufficient to
colour your rum as it will keep in a bottle for a long time. The
best guide is to buy a few shillings worth of good rum in a bright
bottle and have this alongside of yours when you are colouring and
you can compare the two so as you will not overdo things in the
colouring or not give it enough colour.

Now everything is ready & OK for sale.

Finally I nearly forgot to mention when you are taking the rum out
of the cask for colouring. When you colour, strain thoroughly
before you put away for sale as the pineapple and cloves and raisins
always leave a sediment and you in order to have a real clean
article must strain real well.

Don't forget to get fully 22 feet of pure tin piping for the worm
and 1 inch which means 7/8 waterway and when the worm is made must
be coiled so as a gradual incline to lead the spirits through and no
uphill position in the making as this means a blockage in flow and
cause the mash to boil over. Get a good plumber to make the worm
for you, should you not be able to get the pure tin you will have to
get copper. But tin is more easy to clean all you have to do with
tin after you finish each brew is to pour a bucket of cold water
through it and it is always bright and clean. Understand when you
are setting worm in cask at bottom it sticks out about fully 3 or 4
inches on a slight slope through a watertight hole through cask into
catching vessel.

When distilling the 2nds in the white spirits state be careful not
to have too strong a fire as this is very inflammable and will blow
up so be carefull.

Say you have 5 gals of 2nd class brew cut off from the 1st class.
When you put this into the boiler to distil put about 1/2 gal clean
water in with it and it wont blow up, the water wont harm the brew,
it will be of benefit to it and the rum wont be so fiery to taste.

For any second treatment the putting through of white spirits a
person really wants a very much smaller boiler as the 50 gal boiler
is too big. You only really need about a 10 gal boiler and you can
have one made at the same time to just have the same size neck so as
to fit the lid & pipe & worm & all and when boiling a mash use the
50 gal boiler, you never want to fill the boiler with mash - only
slightly over 1/2 full or it will boil over in spite of you as it is
just as hard to keep from boiling over as milk.





CUT: Above was as GGGD wrote it, Below is Harrys take on it.






I've done it in a 60 lt fermenter with it scaled down by percentage
(25%, divide everything by 4), except for the yeast. You'll need a
bit more yeast than percentage-wise to do it right. Use your
judgement & knowledge of yeast being stackable or not (this works in
reverse also). I used 200gms dried baker's yeast (Lowan) for a 60
lt ferment, and I also added 1 t/sp citric acid each day as molasses
today can be a bit alkaline simetimes due to the lime used in the
sugar manufacturing process.

Another thing that will worry you is after you add the second day's
set, you'll think the available sugar/water ratio is too high.
Don't worry about it, as the yeast will already have used a lot of
the first day's sugar. Step-fermentation is a bit different to
single fermentation. It's nearly impossible to gauge what is too
much sugar, but this recipe seems to be about right, although by my
reckoning the osmotic pressure is borderline. At least I haven't
had a stuck ferment.

Reverting to scientific calculations, this is what I worked out...

Constants:

Volume...
1 cubic metre = 1,000 litres
1 imp.gal. = 4.54 litres

Density...
1 lt water = 1 kg
1 lt molasses = 1. 6 kg (1600 kg/m3 ie cubic metre)

Sugar value...
Blackstrap Molasses = 46%
................... = 3.34 kg in 4.54 lt
==========================================

GGGDad's Recipe:

1st day's set...
Molasses = 18.16 lt = 13.36 kg sugar value
Brown Sugar = 10 lbs = 4.54 kg sugar value
Total Sugar value = ~18 kg

Water = 16 gals = 72 lt

Sugar/water ratio = 1:4
------------------------

2nd day's set...
Molasses = 18.16 lt = 13.36 kg sugar value
Brown Sugar = 10 lbs = 4.54 kg sugar value
Total Sugar value = ~18 kg

Water = nil

Sugar/water ratio is now = ?:4 (unknown, but most of the 1st day's
sugar has been used.)
-------------------------

3rd day's set...
Molasses = 18.16 lt = 13.36 kg sugar value
Brown Sugar = nil
Total Sugar value = ~13 kg

Water = 16 gals = 72 lt

Sugar/water ratio is now = ?:4 (again unknown, but because the mash
is now complete, we can give a TOTAL.)

TOTAL:
Sugar = 49 kg
Water = 144 lt (or kg)
Therefore sugar/water ratio = 1:3 (rounded)

Which is about the maximum concentration that can be used, and in
fact will leave a slightly sweet finished ferment, around 1.005 SG.
However, with step-fermentation all bets are off, as the stronger
yeast cells (more alcohol & osmotic tolerant) tend to dominate and
the weaker ones get cannibalised to provide nutrients. Ain't nature
clever at this recycling thing? This process is similar to how
different strains of Saccharomyces Cerevisiae are selected for
propagation. Force-feed 'em, fine-tune 'em, just like an athlete,
then multiply the survivors.
----------------------------


So having suitably confused everyone, using the above you should be
able to build a step-fermentation of any size.

HTH
Slainte!
regards Harry
Last edited by PUGIDOGS on Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby PUGIDOGS » Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:21 am

I am getting close to running a mostly brown sugar batch. The dunder I take from this I will mix in with HGGGP recipe. My plan is when it calls for water I am going to use half water and half dunder. Running the brown sugar wash this weekend so we will see.....Pugi

Edit. I will be doing a full write up on this ASAP. I just mixed and heated up some Backstrap with water to let it settle out. Should be ready to run in a couple weeks. Full report later...Pugi
Last edited by PUGIDOGS on Thu Jun 14, 2007 6:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby stone76567 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 9:16 pm

hi to all..
thanks for all the information ive learned in this site..
btw this is my first visit in this site and thanks you accept me..
thanks a lot and God Bless..

how to treat depression
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby blanikdog » Tue Oct 12, 2010 9:56 pm

This is basically the recipe I use for my rum and cannot recommend it highly enough. :)
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(50 litre, propane heated pot still. Coil in bucket condenser - No thermometer, No carbon)
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby cleadus1 » Sun Oct 16, 2011 4:59 pm

just tried this for the first time, ferment started off really good, its been 4 days since the last addition of molasses and water, its had a constant temp of 28c fermentation seems to have stopped but the sg is still 1040.. have i got a stuck ferment or is it done?..
i didnt take a sg reading after ading the molasses and water..
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby WalkingWolf » Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:20 pm

With this: Dry Matter (%) 74.5 listing in the analysis on the link you had posted there may be quite a bit of variability in your FG. I used stock feed grade molasses and the FG did not get down to zero but I don't recall it stopping that high. Taste the wash. You will probably have a fairly strong molasses flavor but you should still be able to detect if it is sweet or not. I'd suspect the sugars are gone and you will probably be O'k to run it. My experience was the output had such a strong molasses flavor that the liquor basically tasted like molasses. In my case I cut it half with neutral then brought it down to 40% and added a dash of pure vanilla extract and brown sugar. I never got to where I enjoyed this but other folks couldn't get enough.

Let me also state that it was not this recipe I followed.

good luck
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby cleadus1 » Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:04 am

thanks WalkingWolf,
just ran it and from a 23l wash i ended up with 6l of 100 proof through my pot still (no cuts), gunna run it really fast through my reflux tomorrow should get around 7L of 80 proof, so im guessn it had definitely finished fermenting..
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby WalkingWolf » Mon Oct 17, 2011 6:00 am

Through a reflux you may end up with a really good rum flavor. Keep us posted
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby cleadus1 » Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:50 pm

yea came out of my reflux with a nice rum flavour, first 500ml after cut could almost resembled appletons.. after that it had a strong caramel smell.
have it sitting on toasted manuka with raisions, cinimon, and a couple of cloves, will add a vanilla pod soon. should come out good. have another batch brewing at the moment.
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby blanikdog » Thu Oct 20, 2011 12:59 am

Why run it through a reflux where you will lose flavour you had after the pot still run? Rum is best when it's from a pot still and is full of flavour. And why compare it with commercial which is made for profit, not quality. Also, you should have done better than 50abv from your potstill if you followed Harry's recipe. With an sg of 1.04 my guess is that it hadn't finished fermenting. But, that's just my opinion.
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby cleadus1 » Thu Oct 20, 2011 11:21 pm

blanikdog wrote:Why run it through a reflux where you will lose flavour you had after the pot still run? Rum is best when it's from a pot still and is full of flavour. And why compare it with commercial which is made for profit, not quality. Also, you should have done better than 50abv from your potstill if you followed Harry's recipe. With an sg of 1.04 my guess is that it hadn't finished fermenting. But, that's just my opinion.


because it had too much flavour through pot still, ran it fast through my reflux so still retained heaps of flavour, was 50% at the end because i ran it right through the tails which diluted it down (was around 70% through hearts). and well comparing it to appletons straight from the still wasnt to bad i dont think.. tastes alot different now! nice honey taste must be from the raisions and manuka. have put a vanilla pod in tonight will be good to see how that changes flavours.
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby jake_leg » Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:48 am

What do the potatoes and maize add to this recipe?

Has anyone tried with/without?
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby LWTCS » Fri Jan 13, 2012 7:37 am

Mouth feel. A kind of creamy mouth feel. Passing fancey for me.
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby heartcut » Fri Jan 13, 2012 7:43 am

I use this basic recipie without the potatoes and maize, but add 1 T DAP, a vitamin B complex (B-50) and 1/8 tsp Epsom Salt per 12 gal. Tastes and ferments the same as with potatoes and feed corn (never tried maize) so I guessed that they added nutrients. Didn't think about mouth feel, that might be it.
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby jake_leg » Fri Jan 13, 2012 7:45 am

LWTCS wrote:Mouth feel. A kind of creamy mouth feel. Passing fancey for me.


Thanks Larry - is that the potatoes or the maize also gives mouthfeel? Do you cook them?
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby LWTCS » Fri Jan 13, 2012 8:05 am

I have not cooked. Just sliced with the mandolin and added to the ferment. The result was not bad and yet quite forgettable.
I am having far more enjoyment playing with dunder
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby jake_leg » Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:57 am

OK cheers, Might give it a go sometime.
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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby Fastill » Fri Jan 13, 2012 7:08 pm

I use the taters in this but hold the maze. I feel the starch in the taters and the boiling water adds a smoothness to the rum that I find makes it more drinkable sooner. Doesn't require quite as much age to drink. Currently fermenting gen. 2 using 100% backset, blackstrap and brown sugar and calcium carbonate. I also added a Pugi yeast bomb for gen. 2 to help speed things up. Center hearts of Gen 1 are very drinkable after only a week on oak, my old recipes were way more harsh and took months to get this smooth.
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Re:

Postby edge » Fri May 10, 2013 5:07 am

PUGIDOGS wrote:I
Volume...
1 cubic metre = 1,000 litres
1 imp.gal. = 4.54 litres

Density...
1 lt water = 1 kg
1 lt molasses = 1. 6 kg (1600 kg/m3 ie cubic metre)

Sugar value...
Blackstrap Molasses = 46%
................... = 3.34 kg in 4.54 lt
==========================================


Thanks for noting Imperial Gallons!

I don't know if it would cause a stuck ferment or not but the sugar to water would be closer to 1 : 3.8 if you used US Gallons as I certainly would have on this side of the pond :)

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Re: Harrys GGGP Rum

Postby djag » Mon May 04, 2015 1:56 am

Hi,

I am getting "404 Not Found" error from the link share by duds2u?
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