need input on my build please

[rager]

so I got my 15g keg. built my PS head and condenser. questions now comes in with the electrical aspect of my build

this is what I want to do and where im at. I want my rig to be be able to run on 120/240 . reason being if I move I don't want to be stuck to either or.

so this is what im thinking . please help me out. I was thinking about installing 2 5500w elements in the keg. if I was going to run on two different 120v circuits . one would be plugged into just for heat up ( if I have my math right it would be 1375ish watts.) then unplug that and use the other element with a controller during the run. (which is 1375)

that sounds right?

is that enough to run my rig during my runs with one single 5500w element at 120v?

then I would also like to be able to use that one element with a plug adapter and same controller if I have a 240vac available to me so I wouldn't have to use to different 120 circuits

is this possible.

I want this thing to be versatile and I only want to build it once even though im sure this wont be my last rig, I just need some good guidance on this.

please throw any advice at me im here to learn.

thanks

ragin rager

[Jkhippie]

Hey, Rager.

You want to use (2) 5500w elements. You want to be able to use 120v or 240v. Right? Okay. You're on track with using both elements @120v (1375w ea) on seperate circuits for heat-up then unplugging one and "controlling" the other. If you have 240v available, you'll only need the one, controlled element. However, your controller (assuming you're using a SSR) won't work quite right with both. For 120v you'd use a 250K Ohm pot. For 240v, a 500K Ohm pot. I guess you could wire up two pots so that you can switch between them accordingly.

Fwiw, my advice is for entertainment purposes only.

[sambedded]

is that enough to run my rig during my runs with one single 5500w element at 120v?r

Yes it will run OK. But speed will be slow. Nothing wrong with it but just a few extra hours to complete a run.

[S-Cackalacky]

I plan to do something similar. I have a 5 gallon stock pot boiler with a 240VAC 5500W element that I currently run on 120VAC (1375W). For my small still that's enough to get it to boil in 1 hour and enough to do stripping runs at the full on setting. I'm using a Chinese made 10KW SCR controller wired to work on 120VAC. I plan to make an adapter cable with a regular 120VAC receptacle plug on one end a male 240VAC plug on the other end that I will plug into my dryer receptacle. My controller supports both 120VAC input and 240VAC input. As long as both services use the same 3 wire configuration all the way through the system, there's no reason it shouldn't work. Just need to be sure it's at least 10 guage wire. I need to be able to run it on 240VAC for a planned 15.5 gallon keg build with the same element setup as in my smaller still. This way I can use the same controller for either still and also have the flexibility of running on either voltage.

You should be able to do it as long as your controller is capable of supporting either voltage. For 120VAC the two elements would be necessary to get the heat up in a reasonable time. At 240VAC you would only need to run one element with the controller and the adapter cable.

S-C

Posted while Sambedded was posting.

[apdb]

Before I pull a total Homer Simpson... I want the ability to do both as well but.., do i build my adapter cable to convert to 120vac from 240vac or the other way around? The plan is to run off the dryer outlet when ever possible so my thoughts are I should make my controller wired to the big guns and use an adapter to step down. The dog house out in back yard only has 120vac and me and pooch have been hanging out more and more lately. Sorry I'm an electricity moron if this question is obvious.

[S-Cackalacky]

Before I pull a total Homer Simpson... I want the ability to do both as well but.., do i build my adapter cable to convert to 120vac from 240vac or the other way around? The plan is to run off the dryer outlet when ever possible so my thoughts are I should make my controller wired to the big guns and use an adapter to step down. The dog house out in back yard only has 120vac and me and pooch have been hanging out more and more lately. Sorry I'm an electricity moron if this question is obvious.

I'm thinking it would be a matter of personal choice. Either way should work. I'm doing the adapter from 120V female to 240V male because my controller and element on my small still are already setup to run 120V.

S-C

[rager]

I plan to do something similar. I have a 5 gallon stock pot boiler with a 240VAC 5500W element that I currently run on 120VAC (1375W). For my small still that's enough to get it to boil in 1 hour and enough to do stripping runs at the full on setting. I'm using a Chinese made 10KW SCR controller wired to work on 120VAC. I plan to make an adapter cable with a regular 120VAC receptacle plug on one end a male 240VAC plug on the other end that I will plug into my dryer receptacle. My controller supports both 120VAC input and 240VAC input. As long as both services use the same 3 wire configuration all the way through the system, there's no reason it shouldn't work. Just need to be sure it's at least 10 guage wire. I need to be able to run it on 240VAC for a planned 15.5 gallon keg build with the same element setup as in my smaller still. This way I can use the same controller for either still and also have the flexibility of running on either voltage.

You should be able to do it as long as your controller is capable of supporting either voltage. For 120VAC the two elements would be necessary to get the heat up in a reasonable time. At 240VAC you would only need to run one element with the controller and the adapter cable.

S-C

Posted while Sambedded was posting.

that's what im looking for as far as versatility . where did you get your controller? or did you build it?

so it is possible to have one controller , one 5500w element and be able to run either 120/240 ? with just the adapter plug and wire ?


id like to be able to run either way. I don't know how long im going to be at my current place and who know where im going next . where ever I go ill be running though.

[rager]

I plan to do something similar. I have a 5 gallon stock pot boiler with a 240VAC 5500W element that I currently run on 120VAC (1375W). For my small still that's enough to get it to boil in 1 hour and enough to do stripping runs at the full on setting. I'm using a Chinese made 10KW SCR controller wired to work on 120VAC. I plan to make an adapter cable with a regular 120VAC receptacle plug on one end a male 240VAC plug on the other end that I will plug into my dryer receptacle. My controller supports both 120VAC input and 240VAC input. As long as both services use the same 3 wire configuration all the way through the system, there's no reason it shouldn't work. Just need to be sure it's at least 10 guage wire. I need to be able to run it on 240VAC for a planned 15.5 gallon keg build with the same element setup as in my smaller still. This way I can use the same controller for either still and also have the flexibility of running on either voltage.

You should be able to do it as long as your controller is capable of supporting either voltage. For 120VAC the two elements would be necessary to get the heat up in a reasonable time. At 240VAC you would only need to run one element with the controller and the adapter cable.

S-C

Posted while Sambedded was posting.

that's what im looking for as far as versatility . where did you get your controller? or did you build it?

so it is possible to have one controller , one 5500w element and be able to run either 120/240 ? with just the adapter plug and wire ?


id like to be able to run either way. I don't know how long im going to be at my current place and who know where im going next . where ever I go ill be running though.

[Prairiepiss]

I have or had two elements installed in my boiler. Both 5500 watt. I started out using it on 110v. I didn't have 220 available. But I knew I would eventualy. But I used a harbor freight controller for the 110v operation. Then when I got 220v available. I built a phase angle controller.

I have the 110 v system outlined in the must read new distiller reading lounge. It has all my running info in it. Like my lot still took around 900 w to run and reflux 2000 something watts. I would suggest at least reading through that thread. It is in the must read new distiller reading lounge.

[bearriver]

There is probably a hundred people here with 2 5500w controllable elements in a 15 5 gal keg.

Good choice.

[S-Cackalacky]

I plan to do something similar. I have a 5 gallon stock pot boiler with a 240VAC 5500W element that I currently run on 120VAC (1375W). For my small still that's enough to get it to boil in 1 hour and enough to do stripping runs at the full on setting. I'm using a Chinese made 10KW SCR controller wired to work on 120VAC. I plan to make an adapter cable with a regular 120VAC receptacle plug on one end a male 240VAC plug on the other end that I will plug into my dryer receptacle. My controller supports both 120VAC input and 240VAC input. As long as both services use the same 3 wire configuration all the way through the system, there's no reason it shouldn't work. Just need to be sure it's at least 10 guage wire. I need to be able to run it on 240VAC for a planned 15.5 gallon keg build with the same element setup as in my smaller still. This way I can use the same controller for either still and also have the flexibility of running on either voltage.

You should be able to do it as long as your controller is capable of supporting either voltage. For 120VAC the two elements would be necessary to get the heat up in a reasonable time. At 240VAC you would only need to run one element with the controller and the adapter cable.

S-C

Posted while Sambedded was posting.

that's what im looking for as far as versatility . where did you get your controller? or did you build it?

so it is possible to have one controller , one 5500w element and be able to run either 120/240 ? with just the adapter plug and wire ?


id like to be able to run either way. I don't know how long im going to be at my current place and who know where im going next . where ever I go ill be running though.

This is the controller I'm using - http://www.ebay.com/itm/10000W-220v-Adj ... 2c7271bb5a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow . I mounted it in a 6X6X4 inch grey electrical box from Lowe's ($11.00 or so). I bought a 25' 12/3 electrical cord for the wiring. I cut the cord into 3 pieces - about 10 feet from the male plug end to the element in the boiler, about 3' from the female end from the output side of the controller, and the remainder to the input side of the controller with a separately purchased male plug to the service outlet. When I convert to 240V, I'll need to replace the two legs of the cord connected to the controller with 10/3 wiring - the minimum guage recommended for 240V.

I also replaced the heatsink on the controller with a more robust heatsink from a computer CPU. The new heatsink also had a 12VDC fan attached. You don't need to do this. Other members here are using this same controller successfully with the original heatsink. However, it would probably be a good idea to install a fan.

The adapter cable I'll fashion from the same cable I buy to upgrade the controller wiring. It will have a female 120V style plug on one end and a 240V male plug on the other end that plugs into the dryer outlet. You can do the configuration opposite if it fits your design.

I posted this plan in another thread a while back and others here confirmed that it will work. I'm sort of relying on their confirmation because I'm not at all electrically inclined. Anyway, it seems like a simple enough solution for running on either current.

Hope this helps,
S-C

Posted while Piss and Bear were posting. And, what Piss said about the two elements - would be good for when you need to run on 120V.

[rager]

lots of good info here guys, I read it tonite and will read tomorrow to comprehend .

thanks... cheers.... be safe everyone and happy holidays

[humbledore]

I have or had two elements installed in my boiler. Both 5500 watt. I started out using it on 110v. I didn't have 220 available. But I knew I would eventualy. But I used a harbor freight controller for the 110v operation. Then when I got 220v available. I built a phase angle controller.

I have the 110 v system outlined in the must read new distiller reading lounge. It has all my running info in it. Like my lot still took around 900 w to run and reflux 2000 something watts. I would suggest at least reading through that thread. It is in the must read new distiller reading lounge.

y

Going to read this now...

[humbledore]

PP can you point me to the thread on your 110v build? I think the required reading lounge is being redone, I can't seem to find it.

[rager]

ok if done a little studying up. read jimbos and belly busters builds. so ive got most figured out. Im curious as to the 10000w scr , will that be able to run either 110/220 with the 5500w element interchangeably ? I only want to build one controller.

whats the difference between
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10000W-220V-SCR ... 20dcc932e6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-10000W-AC-2 ... 3a7fc93e37" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

ok after some more reading it seems like all I need is this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MP ... AZDOWP300U" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

and this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Z ... AZDOWP300U" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

\thank

[TDS]

Dear OP rager:
I didn't have anything to contribute, because I'm not very knowledgeable about this topic. I am more so now than I was. For this I thank you, and thanks to the people with the knowledge for answering him with it.
Merry Christmas!

[sambedded]

ok if done a little studying up. read jimbos and belly busters builds. so ive got most figured out. Im curious as to the 10000w scr , will that be able to run either 110/220 with the 5500w element interchangeably ? I only want to build one controller.

- yes., that SCRs will work on 110v
- there is no difference between two SCRs you mentioned.
- I'd rase buy SSVR and a pot to build a controller.

But be aware when you run SCR or SSVR with 470k pot on 110v only less than a half of potentiometer rotation diapason will be in use.

[rager]

ok if done a little studying up. read jimbos and belly busters builds. so ive got most figured out. Im curious as to the 10000w scr , will that be able to run either 110/220 with the 5500w element interchangeably ? I only want to build one controller.

But be aware when you run SCR or SSVR with 470k pot on 110v only less than a half of potentiometer rotation diapason will be in use.

so if I got this right, the potentiometer will use less then half the rotation of the dial on 110v with 5500w element because the watts have been cut by 75% (approx. 1350w max) and in this configuration, will have less presision control than if running 220v and a 55500w element?

Dear OP rager:
I didn't have anything to contribute, because I'm not very knowledgeable about this topic. I am more so now than I was. For this I thank you, and thanks to the people with the knowledge for answering him with it.
Merry Christmas!

yea man I know how you feel I started this hobby blind. I know have enough hours of reading here I probably could I have gone to college and gotten a degree in something. lol. I was up to 3 am last night cramming about this controller. is the last big step in my keg build. waiting for a couple others to chime in before I make myself a little Christmas morning purchase for myself

[sambedded]

so if I got this right, the potentiometer will use less then half the rotation of the dial on 110v with 5500w element because the watts have been cut by 75% (approx. 1350w max) and in this configuration, will have less presision control than if running 220v and a 55500w element?

Yes, but because your element . It just due to voltage. If for 220v you need 470K-500k pot then for 110 you need 220-250k pot.

[Prairiepiss]

PP can you point me to the thread on your 110v build? I think the required reading lounge is being redone, I can't seem to find it.

Mr P's 110v Harbor Freight controller duel element setup.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 62&t=28179

[rager]

so if I got this right, the potentiometer will use less then half the rotation of the dial on 110v with 5500w element because the watts have been cut by 75% (approx. 1350w max) and in this configuration, will have less presision control than if running 220v and a 55500w element?

Yes, but because your element . It just due to voltage. If for 220v you need 470K-500k pot then for 110 you need 220-250k pot.

ok thanks excellent ill will order both. easy enough to rewire

is there a difference in the 470 vs the 500k pot. im about to order parts . am I better off getting the 500k or does is not matter as long as it within that range. same question with the 220-250 pot

thanks

edit
will I need this modular like mule kicker talks about in this thread half way down
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=17383

[humbledore]

I would like to understand more on the pot differences, I just ran a test run using the same controller as S-C, the 10000kW SCR, running on 110V, seemed to work fine. I did not try to make fine adjustments.

I was running this on a 1/4 barrel with 5G of water, see here:
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 9&start=20

[F6Hawk]

The pot controls how much power the SCR puts out. I don't remember which way it works, but one will allow you to go up to 100% power (I think that is the 500K one), but will not allow electricity to flow at the lower levels. The other one will give you power at low settings, but won't hit 100% power. Maybe Jimbo can pipe in here and let us know which one he has.

I seem to recall someone having the 470K pot, and not being able to get what they wanted. Added a 30K resistor in series, and voila!

[humbledore]

I will say that using mine at 110v I heard nothing for the first half-turn, then I could hear a buzz. Overall a very low volume, but I could hear it. So maybe it didn't kick in at the lower levels. I need a volt meter to say.

[S-Cackalacky]

I will say that using mine at 110v I heard nothing for the first half-turn, then I could hear a buzz. Overall a very low volume, but I could hear it. So maybe it didn't kick in at the lower levels. I need a volt meter to say.

I also have to say that mine doesn't do much at the lower levels. When I first wired it up, I connected a non-variable speed drill to it and I had to turn the pot about 2/3rds open to even get the drill to start turning. Like you, I don't have a volt meter connected so I don't really know what's going on at the lower level.

S-C

BTW - With the pot turn all the way up, or with the element plugged directly into a 110V outlet, a 4.5 gallon charge reaches full boil in about an hour. So, I'm fairly certain it puts out full power at the full on position.

[sambedded]

I would like to understand more on the pot differences, I just ran a test run using the same controller as S-C, the 10000kW SCR, running on 110V, seemed to work fine. I did not try to make fine adjustments.

I was running this on a 1/4 barrel with 5G of water, see here:
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 9&start=20

500K pot will work OK on 110v since it's resistance changes from 0 to 500k when you rotate it. but you are loosig halve way of rotation at 100v . Just a more rough control.
you can connect two pots (say 500k and 50k or 100k ) in line. this way you will have precize control for any voltage.

[bellybuster]

I've just been reading this and wonder. You plan on using 220 in your present home but would like tha ability to swap to 110 just in case you move?
Ok, fine... Why not just cut the 220 plug off and rewire a 110 plug in when and if you move and only have 110? The 220 wiring can support the 110 all day.
Just curious

[xbwqs78]

This is what I'm doing I'm going to putt 2 5500 watt elements the 1st will be 240v on a 30 amp breaker with and on off switch at the element. The 2nd I'll have hooked up to a 20 amp 120v (1375watt) with the harbor freight 15 amp router control. Once the wash is @ temp I'll shut off the 5500 240v and use the 20 amp 120v to adjust the temp. This way I can get away with not have to put in another 240v 30 amp breaker but still use the full 5500 watts for getting up to temp faster than just using 120v. no need to build my own control I believe the harbor freight will allow 15 amp and the 1375 convert to 11.5. Plenty of room without maxing the wire or breaker.

How does this look to everyone

[rager]

im about order this , my only concern is that its rated at 40amp. my stove is installed on a 50A circuit . could this be a problem? or will I never be pushing the still and controller over the 40a rating?

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-25-380V-Vol ... +Heat+Sink" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow