Here are instructions for modifying a common router speed controller for use as a 110v electric heat controller. Please read and understand what you are doing before attempting. Improper use could result in loss of life or property.
I have had a lot of inquiries about my heating elements and controller setup as of lately. So I figured I would post a rundown of what and why's. I posted this in my build thread. And thought it may be seen more if it had its own thread.
I am only providing this as an alternative to a 220v phaseangle setup. Or any controller builds available on HD. The phaseangle controller at 220v would be one of the best setups you could use. So if you have 220v available I would suggest that controller over my setup any day. It can be used on 110v also.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=17383
I opted to go with the 110v setup because of one main reason. I didn't have good access to 220v to run my still. I currently live in a mobile home. Not much room. Less room to be stealthy. So I opted to go 110v. Cost was another factor. The Harbor Freight controller was $17.99. Had to at least try it. And simplicity plug and play. So I thought. But found out later not a good idea with this controller. More on that in a bit.
Ok on to my current setup. I have 2 5500w 220v elements mounted in my 15.5 gal keg. One is a straight one and the other one is of the wavy type. The 5500w 220v elements will run at approx 1375w in 110v. I mounted the lower one as low as I could in the keg. Taking into account it is the wavy one and needs a wider path to be screwed in. The upper one is just above it so to give me enough clearence that they won't touch. With this mounting configuration it takes approx 5 gallons to just cover the elements. So 6 gallons is what I figure for the minimum amount of water that needs to be in the boiler to run both elements. And keep them covered.
Upgradability for a later date. No need to change them out to changeover to 220v.
Size to heat input ratio. The longer the element the more the heat will be spread out over the length of it. Less likely to scorche any suspended solids.
The wattage was close to what I wanted. And safe to run on a single 15amp circuit. Approx 1375w @ 110v each element.
Now the controller. Like I said I thought it mite be a plug and play thing. But what I found was the unit wasn't built for long extended continued use. Because the supplied heatsink or lack of one. So I took the advice of Rad and Mulekicker and added the larger heatsink. And after many runs I was glad I did. As hot as the heatsink gets. I can't imagine what it would be like without it. It gets quite warm ok HOT. If the factory cover plate was to be used it would over heat rather quickly. And cause it to fail either burn the chip up. Or cause the whole thing to meltdown.
Safety precautions.
If using two separate elements like this. They must be plugged into separate circuits. That are supplied by separate circuit breakers. One circuit can't handle the amp draw of two elements. This could overheat the circuit and pop the CB. Or worse start a fire at a resistance area of that circuit. I can't stress this enough. Do not run on the same circuit.
Other precautions about the router speed controller. The on off switch switches the neutral leg of the 110v circuit. This means the output plug is connected to the hot leg at all times. So if touching the backing plate or heatsink if modded and touching the output terminal. You will get shocked. I don't like the fact they switched the neutral instead of the hot. But not much we can do about that. The hot leg is the one with the fuse protection. The best thing to do is switch the unit off. And unplug it from the wall first. Then unplug the element.
Reminders When connecting the elements make sure to have the earth ground connected to the boiler. And if at all possible GFCI circuits should be used. Correct wire gauge size should also be used for the elements. With this setup on 110v 12/2 wire would be the minimum I would go for safety. 10/2 wire if you plan to upgraded to 220v at a later date.
One last thing to keep in mind. The Harbor Freight router controller is just that. A Harbor Freight Router controller. As with many things bought at Harbor Freight they aren't the best things in the world. They sell them cheap for a reason. So if you are thinking this will last you a lifetime. Think again. I have not had a problem with mine. But I'm not expecting it to last for ever. Like any cheap electronics. One mite last for 2 or 3 years. While the next one on the shelf mite last 1 or 2 runs. But they are cheap enough you could have two. And use one as a backup. In case one fails during a run.
I'm going to try to get some better pics of the heatsink install. And post them when I can.