Controller Wire check & Line Question

[BDF]

Just assembled the controller box, and looking for a sanity check to ensure I don't damage anything:

-Started by getting the econobox DIY controller kit from stilldragon (http://stilldragon.com/index.php/diy-la ... oller.html)
-Built following instructions provided by seller (https://www.stilldragon.org/uploads/man ... 131020.pdf)
-Wire diagram seems to match up with one I found in the reading lounge (download/file.php?id=12835&mode=view

Questions I have:

1. Does it matter which hot line I run to the SSR and which one I run directly to the element (connecting to 220/240v outlet)?
2. Will I need active cooling (a fan) with this set-up to run a single 5500watt element (Camco 02965) on 220/240V? or all the 1/2" vent holes enough for passive cooling?
3. Any other tips/suggestions for what is seen so far? I saw others being told to run all ground wires to a single stud, but in my case I don't think my terminals would all fit on a single one....
4. Are there any issues I particular to the 3-prong 220/240V style plug in seen in the attached picture? It's all I have to work with currently, being used by my dryer atm.

[BDF]

Update: Double checked other similar threads asking the same kind of questions, and went ahead and finished building/wiring. Plugged all my connectors together, and before plugging it into a wall checked with my multimeter that I was running near zero resistance on all legs that should be continuous, from wall plug to element pin. And that my potentiometer changed the resistance of the leg that went through the SSR. 5 gallons of water into my keg, waited, double checked I was getting no leaks (especially near the element fitting and the 2" triclamp I soldered on). Double checked that my breaker properly killed power to the outlet when flipped.

Set my controller to 0%, plug it into the wall, plugged controller into the keg. Nothing happened, good.
Set my controller to 25%, hear a 60hz hum/buzz from the element. Eventually see heat ripples in water over element.
Set my controller to 50%, same thing.
Set my controller to 100%, no bad signs.

Used my multimeter with a current clamp (inductively sense current), and plug it over one of the legs to the element, reading 24.3 amps AC at 100% output. 24.3A*220V = 5346 watts, pretty close to the 5500w rating.

Only ran it for a few minutes, and had my controller box screwed shut, so I wasn't able to see if the heatsink was working properly, so that's my remaining questions, whether or not I'll need a fan.

[bluefish_dist]

Yes, you need a fan. I would also add one of the $10 meters from eBay so you can see your power input.

[BDF]

Yes, you need a fan. I would also add one of the $10 meters from eBay so you can see your power input.

Think I agree yeah. Just ran my set-up for ~15min and was able to bring 5 gal of water to a low boil, and near the end of it the bolts holding the heatsink got hot. Not too hot to touch, but probably would have if I kept going.

Now that I have the basics wired, operational, and without catching on fire after plugging in....I have more confidence to start tweaking it as the whole plug into the wall thing was a real psychological barrier for me. Time for more research!

[StillerBoy]

As bluefish stated a fan would help cool the heat sink.. also a 2 pole 30 amp for on / off switch.. you want a breaker switch at the controller so that you can cut off the power go to the element when you unplug from the element.. it is not wise to unplug the element with power still on even when the pot is turned down.. there is still power going through..

Mars

[BDF]

As bluefish stated a fan would help cool the heat sink.. also a 2 pole 30 amp for on / off switch.. you want a breaker switch at the controller so that you can cut off the power go to the element when you unplug from the element.. it is not wise to unplug the element with power still on even when the pot is turned down.. there is still power going through..

Mars

I would think the danger more lies in forgetting the pot isn't on zero, or it getting bumped in the process. So a switch does sound like a good idea. I measured the in/out circuit resistance at ~24 mega-ohms with the pot set to zero, giving 9microamps of current and 2 milliwatts of power going through during plugging/unplugging. But point taken for sure, a cooling fan, ampmeter or power meter, and some kind of hard shut-off switch are now on my list of things to install.

[StillerBoy]

Here is a basic design for a controller.. 2 pot setup for fine control..

Mars

[piperdave]

Care to share your wiring diagram or pics of the guts Stillerboy? Looks nice and clean.

[skow69]

BDF, ground the metal box, too. Connect to the heat sink will do it. Big wire nuts are handy for connecting all those grounds together.

[StillerBoy]

Pictures of the inside wiring of the controller shown above.. the housing is an electrical junction box 4 x 6 x 8".. using a 6' dryer cord and 10' of #10 cable for boiler connection.. the meter is this one and I've had no issues for over 2 yrs of use.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400991261553?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Wiring diagram/schematic for 2 pot setup.. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=51796

Mars

[piperdave]

Thanks for posting those pic's StillerBoy!!

[piperdave]

Sorry to the OP for the mini thread hijack.

[Lyonsie]

Pictures of the inside wiring of the controller shown above.. the housing is an electrical junction box 4 x 6 x 8".. using a 6' dryer cord and 10' of #10 cable for boiler connection.. the meter is this one and I've had no issues for over 2 yrs of use.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400991261553?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Wiring diagram/schematic for 2 pot setup.. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=51796

Mars

Very tidy stillerboy. What's the third smaller pot for?

[StillerBoy]

What's the third smaller pot for?

The pot next to rocker switch is for the fan control speed.. a fan attached directly to the 12V pack run way to fast for what is required to cool the heat sink.. and a lower voltage pack9 like a 6 or 9V) will not always start the fan at startup from what I experienced..

Mars

[Lyonsie]

What's the third smaller pot for?

The pot next to rocker switch is for the fan control speed.. a fan attached directly to the 12V pack run way to fast for what is required to cool the heat sink.. and a lower voltage pack9 like a 6 or 9V) will not always start the fan at startup from what I experienced..

That's actually what i thought, i recently had the same trouble when i built a 12v motor controller for a seperate project. I too am sorry for the thread derailment. Well done to the op on his build too. Iv something similar atm.

Mars

[BDF]

Sorry to the OP for the mini thread hijack.

Keep goin, I got my question answered, and my next ones about meters and fans are now also being talked about.

[BDF]

Added a cooling fan, digital read-out, and a 240v/30A shut-off switch for the hot line that doesn't go through the SSR. Brought 5 gallons of water to a boil without the heatsink getting more than barely warm, and staying that way.

[StillerBoy]

Lookin good.. starting to come together..

Mars

[piperdave]

Starting to come together[img]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201704 ... 49ba06.jpg[/img]

[cob]

Starting to come together

copied and pasted from yesterdays conversation.

tapatalk links don't work. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 35&t=65167

[piperdave]

Let's try this again.

[BDF]

Just as an update, got through my vinegar cleaning run and sacrificial alcohol run over the course of 5 hours or so and the cooling fan did the trick. No hick-ups, and while it heatsink (or its mounting bolts) got warm to the touch, it leveled off there even while running on full steam for hours.

And because it was an annoyance of mine that people rarely linked the parts they went with for their electric conversion, here was my list for my half-keg:

Digital Meter: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BAYITE-PZ ... 00YY1KJAC/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Cooling Fan: https://www.amazon.com/Muffin-Style-Axi ... 00IU36VDE/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Shut-off Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-3032-2W- ... 002MPPTBQ/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Box / Solid State Relay / Pot Switch / misc: http://stilldragon.com/index.php/diy-la ... oller.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Stainless heating element w/stainless base/threads: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/stain ... g-elements" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Element gaurd kit: http://stilldragon.com/index.php/element-guard-kit.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Stainless Ferrule to solder to still: http://stilldragon.com/index.php/long-ferrule.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Lead-Free, antimoney-free solder: https://www.amazon.com/Ha-Sta-brite-100 ... B001HWDPS4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Flux for soldering stainless (VERY IMPORTANT): https://www.amazon.com/Harris-SCLF16-St ... 001HW8E1M/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Things I had to buy locally:
10/3 service cord
thin gauge (18-22) wire for the pot switch
240v/30amp male and female plugs
various mounting nuts/screws
various wire terminals / soldering equipment / power rails

In addition, this assumes you have the tools to cut, smooth, clean, crimp, and heat components for each step. Take it a step at a time and don't expect to finish in a day, especially if this is your first go at it.

Threads that were very helpful to me on some of the more daunting steps:
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36347" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
viewtopic.php?f=62&t=17383
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=51796" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

A thanks to all who post in this forum, on this site, and in this thread.

[WithOrWithoutU2]

Pictures of the inside wiring of the controller shown above.. the housing is an electrical junction box 4 x 6 x 8".. using a 6' dryer cord and 10' of #10 cable for boiler connection.. the meter is this one and I've had no issues for over 2 yrs of use.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400991261553?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Wiring diagram/schematic for 2 pot setup.. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=51796

Mars

Can you tell me how you connected the wires to the pot? I've seen other solder, but you seem to have some sort of clip or something. If you give me the name of the connector that I can search and purchase I would appreciate it. I would prefer not to solder if possible. Thanks

[greggn]

Can you tell me how you connected the wires to the pot? I've seen other solder, but you seem to have some sort of clip or something.

I use crimped ring terminals like these ...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NSi-Industr ... /306840005

NOTE: ring terminals are sized based on wire gauge so get the correct size for the wire used in your controller

If you go this route be sure to get a crimping tool to ensure correct mechanical contact between the wire and the terminal.

[StillerBoy]

Can you tell me how you connected the wires to the pot?

The connectors to the pot, I think the connector size were .187 for 18 -22 g wire size, (there're the smallest size made) available at most hardware stores or automotive shops.. that size slips right on to a 47K or 470K pot tabs.. I can't say for sure on the size as I have removed the label, but bring a pot with you to store, and match it to the pot tab..

All my wire connections are done the same way.. I remove the plastic guard on the connector, strip the covering off the end of wire, solder the wire to the connector, and then add a piece of shrink wrap.. on small wires, double the ends before soldering..

By making all the connectors removable, I can change any items in minutes, plus it make for a clean setup..

Mars