Tri-clamp, Barrel union, nipple & olives? What's the best?

[Hornblower]

I'm nearly there on my new pot.

The last piece is the union of lyne arm & condensor. It needs to be servicable & provide a solid vapour seal.

Vapour path is 1" all the way as I will be lashing this lady for fast stripping runs.

The Punkindensor is heavy so it will be supported, I just want an easy durable seal.

What do you guys think?

HB

[Hawke]

I would use a 1" union, then solder on whatever reducers are needed to get to the condenser.

[Hornblower]

Its 1" both sides of the join

no worries there

cheers

[Hawke]

I like the copper to copper unions, if you can find them. The copper to bronze work just as well, just needs more heat to get the soldering done. (Bronze doesn't use lead like brass, so doesn't need treated)

[Hornblower]

I like the copper to copper unions, if you can find them. The copper to bronze work just as well, just needs more heat to get the soldering done. (Bronze doesn't use lead like brass, so doesn't need treated)

I like the idea of copper to copper, but I have never seen them here in Australia. Where are you Hawke? Any preferred suppliers in Sydney anyone?

[HookLine]

If you find an Australian source let us know coz we Aussies here have been looking for one for a long time.

[minime]

Copper to copper is the best because eventually the sealing surface gets work hardened. Just has to be annealed to perk it right up. The brass to copper work hardens much faster I found and you've only got one soft side.

[punkin]

If it was me (and it is) i'd expand the bottom end of the pipe (on the condensor) and shove the lyne arm in and use a half dozen turns of thread tape.

If it was me reccomending to you what to do here, i'd say to expand the bottom, shove it in and use some flour seal.





Bit hard to see in these pics, but i have mine strapped to the wall with standout brackets.

Only setup for the piccie there, it has the 1/2" from the condensor expanded and soldered into a piece of 3/4 and that's expanded into a socket for the inch lyne arm which is the joint that needs to be sealed.



Easy, cheap, reliable seal.

[eternalfrost]

When you guys are talking about unions do you mean these?



Im in the process of getting a pot together and was planning on using these to connect the condenser so i could swap it out for use on a new VM head. and also adjust the pot condenser slope for more/less reflux. they seem to be 100% copper?

[Hornblower]

Yes Mate, that'll be the one.
What a guy, you even got the part number & everything

Too bad I'm on the WRONG )*^$#ing CONTINENT!

The good news is that I can get them in brass from the supplier down the street. I'm going to go for one of them.

Its interesting about using them to control angles. My understanding of lyne arm angles is that once vapour reaches the "top of the hill" any condensate formed from there goes either forwards to the output or backwards to reflux & the pot. Vapours go forwards regardless so its reflux that is being controlled.

With 2 of these & 2 90deg elbows you could move the apex around quite a bit.Perhaps sending more or less flavour to output?

Am I right? Anyone already tried it?

Horatio

[punkin]

Yes Mate, that'll be the one.
What a guy, you even got the part number & everything

Too bad I'm on the WRONG )*^$#ing CONTINENT!

The good news is that I can get them in brass from the supplier down the street. I'm going to go for one of them.

Its interesting about using them to control angles. My understanding of lyne arm angles is that once vapour reaches the "top of the hill" any condensate formed from there goes either forwards to the output or backwards to reflux & the pot. Vapours go forwards regardless so its reflux that is being controlled.

With 2 of these & 2 90deg elbows you could move the apex around quite a bit.Perhaps sending more or less flavour to output?

Am I right? Anyone already tried it?

Horatio

You can get those barrell unions in stainles as well as brass here Horatio, they're only a couplea bucks so you may as well get the staino's.

As far as playing around with miniscules of reflux achieved by angles/lengths/takeoffs of lyne arms forget it.

The differences are that small you'd be tugging y'self if ya said you could pick it.

[Hornblower]

Yes Mate, that'll be the one.
What a guy, you even got the part number & everything

Too bad I'm on the WRONG )*^$#ing CONTINENT!

The good news is that I can get them in brass from the supplier down the street. I'm going to go for one of them.

Its interesting about using them to control angles. My understanding of lyne arm angles is that once vapour reaches the "top of the hill" any condensate formed from there goes either forwards to the output or backwards to reflux & the pot. Vapours go forwards regardless so its reflux that is being controlled.

With 2 of these & 2 90deg elbows you could move the apex around quite a bit.Perhaps sending more or less flavour to output?

Am I right? Anyone already tried it?

Horatio

I just read this back to myself & it came off a but harsh.

Eternalfrost, frustration wasn't aimed at you, just at the problem. Thanks for doing the research & posting it.

Didnt mean to flame you mate, if thats what it sounded like. That's all

Cheers

HH

[eternalfrost]

no problem, didnt take it that way
I use mcmaster on a weekly basis for work. favorite place to shop, in your hands in less then 48 hours even with basic shipping. not to mention just under half a million items available

as to the title of the thread, i love my tri-clamps. quick and easy, no need for messy paste, just bulletproof.

[Adverse Effects]

ok everyone get out your rocks to throw at me becaust i am going to say it again

Tri-Clover joints are the best

any thing from 12.5mm all the way up to 100mm and you can get bigger with a special order

information on tri-clover fittings is
scroll down till you see the first pic on the right hand side info is in inches

place in NSW that sells tri-clover WEBSITE CATALOG-GO TO PAGE 21 and 22 i think

as for what to call them
tri-clover Ferrule 1 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 1 1/2 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 2 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 2 1/2 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 3 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 4 inch

tri-clover Ferrule 25mm
tri-clover Ferrule 38mm
tri-clover Ferrule 50mm
tri-clover Ferrule 65mm
tri-clover Ferrule 75mm
tri-clover Ferrule 100mm

same with clamps

tri-clover clamp 1 inch
and so on

[goinbroke2]

ok everyone get out your rocks to throw at me becaust i am going to say it again

Tri-Clover joints are the best

any thing from 12.5mm all the way up to 100mm and you can get bigger with a special order

information on tri-clover fittings is
scroll down till you see the first pic on the right hand side info is in inches

place in NSW that sells tri-clover WEBSITE CATALOG-GO TO PAGE 21 and 22 i think

as for what to call them
tri-clover Ferrule 1 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 1 1/2 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 2 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 2 1/2 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 3 inch
tri-clover Ferrule 4 inch

tri-clover Ferrule 25mm
tri-clover Ferrule 38mm
tri-clover Ferrule 50mm
tri-clover Ferrule 65mm
tri-clover Ferrule 75mm
tri-clover Ferrule 100mm

same with clamps

tri-clover clamp 1 inch
and so on

I'll second that, tri clovers ROCK! (crap that sounds like something my kids would say)! LOL!