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I did think about that, but I'm scrammy-handed so it just looked wrong. Plus, with my small planned working area, I want the condenser hoses nearest the tap & waste, which are on the right.Copperhead road wrote: ↑Tue Feb 10, 2026 1:13 pm I would have thought because the pelican design lays back more it would distribute the weight more evenly to the centre of the boiler.
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Bristolian wrote: ↑Tue Feb 10, 2026 12:49 pm
The remainder of the elbows arrived, so another dry fit time.
What Greggn is saying is the barbs for the cooling lines to the Liebig should point towards the ground. That way they hang naturally. Pointed up the hot water from the exit will soften them and the water weight inside the line will try to kink enough to slow or stop water flow.
Hi, yes - I'm aware that in the photo they're pointing up. This is purely to lay flat the design. My intention is to have them soldered hanging down, slightly off the vertical, so they can be routed safely away from the hotplate under the pot.30xs wrote: ↑Mon Feb 16, 2026 1:42 pm What Greggn is saying is the barbs for the cooling lines to the Liebig should point towards the ground. That way they hang naturally. Pointed up the hot water from the exit will soften them and the water weight inside the line will try to kink enough to slow or stop water flow.
Yes, that configuration is the winner since you already have most of it. (you can get TC bulkheads but that one you have is fine)Bristolian wrote: ↑Mon Feb 16, 2026 1:21 pm *sigh*
3/4" BSP to 1.5" TC adapter on the slow boat.. £4 with free shipping (£24 on Amazon)
bsp adapter.jpg
Fit bulkhead > screw on inverted TC adapter > clamp ferruled straight > snuggly-fit 28mm into straight.
Might want to add the weight of the hoses when they are full of water as well .Bristolian wrote: ↑Tue Feb 10, 2026 2:02 pmNope, but even when that's full it only adds about 100g - it's 15mm inner, 22mm outer.
The 28mm riser & curve filled with 28mm stubs offsets it.
Next time I get to play with it all, I'll weigh them up to see the balance - won't be exact yet, because solder will add weight, and I'm adding a coil to the condenser, but I can estimate that.
Obviously , plan A is not going to work . When you need to bash the shit out of the lid to make it work , it’s time to rethink it . That idea is plagued with secondary issues like warping the lid seal . If that happens , you might as well just bin the whole thing .Bristolian wrote: ↑Tue Feb 17, 2026 2:37 am What would be the best way to flatten the lid ridge? Spang it with a hammer?
so , this will not be your first or last build . Bash the lid and stick a weird size connector on it is as good as dead . 
…… or a couple of corks . I'm a big fan of his
Sheer bloody-mindedness at this point..!Yummyrum wrote: ↑Tue Feb 17, 2026 1:44 am You going to do all this wonderful copper creation and it becomes dodgy when you connect it to the boiler lid .
I can’t help but wonder why you can’t solder a triclamp ferrule to the copper riser and just stick a Triclamp bulk head on the lid . …..in fact , stick it in the middle .
I've already been swayed by bigger pots, but - for now - I'm sticking with my PortaPottyStill.Yummyrum wrote: ↑Tue Feb 17, 2026 3:41 am
Point is , you are obviously a handy sort of fella
Put a common size Tri-clamp fitting in it in the middle , and you’ll be able to use it again and again down the track . A thumper , a Gin still a mini reflux still …. what ever else .
You probably can’t foresee the possibilities yet . I know . When I first started out , all I could see was the immediate project .
Trust me .
As for the to small holes in the lid already . Just cover them . Hell , stuck a useless thermometer in them if you want .
Yep, I think I'll go with the general consensus on that
Not sure whether to be scared or excited
