Valved Reflux Still+voltage controller+lots of driving

[nanosec]

First off, excellent site!

Here's my small saga of getting the valved reflux design built off
of the "Build a World Class Distillation Apparatus" website.

I want to begin by first thanking everyone who has shared their knowledge
on distilling and construction on these pages and on the distiller groups.

I just wanted to drop a note about that valved reflux design, as I've seen
many many many photos of stills, but none that are like the one I just built.
(exact same as world class pdf reflux design)

I just want to mention that 3' copper fittings etc are VERY hard to find
cheaply where I am. Not sure if it's the same in the USA
but here (canada) it's just not as easy to find 3' caps or 3' pipe without paying a premium for them.

Just wanted to suggest that before you even buy one piece of a your still
to source ALL parts completely before beginning.

I think I would have changed my design a bit after reading
more and costing this thing out.

Now I blame this on myself because I was so eager to get started,
I got commited to this particular design after buying some of the initial parts.

I have finally got this beast assembled, the last thing to go in is the
voltage control for a 3000 watt element.

This part alone has cost me more grief than any other of the parts combined!

I've read a suggestion for a Van Gogh dimmer from Rona, just wanted to add that this thing runs at 50 bucks for a 1000 watt.

If you're decide to try this, and you're under 1000 watt I highly recommend
Restore in Canada. I was able to pick up a pair of 1000 watt dimmers for $2 each. They are a great source for wiring etc.

Having said that, the 2 1000 watt dimmers I'm testing tomorrow running
on 240 current. I don't think it's going to work, but hey what can I say.

(I'm getting help on the electrical part because I know my limitations)

I have also tried the heating element switch from a stove's stovetop element. It didn't work, I'm not sure if running a 120 element would have made a difference. Anyways food for thought if you want to try it on a 110 current element.

If that fails I'm going to try and get the place listed below for a voltage controller. This is a direct cut and paste from the distiller groups, because
I felt that this poster deserved recognition and my hope is that it will help somebody in the same jam I'm in.

Hi all,I have finally found a relatively cheap off the
shelf temperature controller for a 240 volt 3Kw
immersion heater.
It is made by United Automation Ltd Email:-
Enquiry@... and is a CSR2-Series
15E power regulator, it is a enclosed triac unit
surounded by heat sink with a inbuilt 6.3mm dia
control potentiometer. I got hold of this from RS
components (http://rswww.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow)part no. 655-644. It
should be used with a suppressor because it may
interfere with neighbours radio's, tv's etc. rs do a
210-364 contact suppressor which should do the job ok
or Maplin does a YR90X type R-C network uppressor
which would also do. I installed mine the other day
and lo and behold magnificent temperature control. I
intend to fit a multi-turn dial knob with counting
dial thus giving me even better fine adjustment.
Regard and best wishes Ken


Having said all that here's my questions:

Somebody mentioned a propane catalyttic converter where there is NO open flame.

Does anybody know what this is? Pics or a link of it?

I've been reading enough about alcohol vapour that I'm just terrified of even attempting to run a propane burner in the house.

I've been told that this vapour sinks to the floor and any source of ignition
in the same area is just downright dangerous.

Unfortunately the only souce of water and a 220 plug is in the same room
as a furnace. Will I be able to get by turning the thermostat on the furnace to nothing and opening an adjacecent door with fans blowing air out of the room?

(I plan on using the internal heating element.)

Does anybody know how long it takes for this stuff to dissipate?

I read a message about a fellow who had a leak in his boiler and the next minute he was engulfed in flames. (he had a fire extinguisher nearby, lucky for him)

I'm also intrested in knowing if anybody is running a beer keg boiler on a hotplate.

If so did you disconnect the thrmostat control for it?


Thanks for taking the time to read, I know it's a long first post here, but
I really really want to go slow on this with the utmost regard for safety as I do not have an outdoor shed to do this stuff in.

One last question, do any of you recirculate your condensor water using
a pump mechanism? Any suggestions?

[Peachey]

One last question, do any of you recirculate your condensor water using
a pump mechanism? Any suggestions?

My Brew Buddy and I are currently working on a design for this. We're using 1 x Hydroponics Pump, 1 x Old Car Radiator and Fan, 1 x Big Barrel, and 1 lot of pipe.

The plan is to pump the water from the barrel, through the condensor, through the radiator (bottom to top not top to bottom) then into the barrel again.

[midnightvisitor]

A guy might also want to try a stove element control, i have not tried it yet myself but will be looking into it soon Looks promising so far,

[boudreaux]

I should tell you that a common diode will cut your power in half. Now the peak voltage is line voltage times 1.414 as 220 * 1.414 = 312 volts, The diode should have a voltage rating above 312 volts. Now if you are useing a 1500 watt element at 220 volts it draws 1500 / 220 = 7 amps a 10 amp diode at 400 volts should do the trick. You put a switch across the diode to go to full power, then turn that switch off to back to 1/2 power.

[Harry]

One last question, do any of you recirculate your condensor water using
a pump mechanism? Any suggestions?

My Brew Buddy and I are currently working on a design for this. We're using 1 x Hydroponics Pump, 1 x Old Car Radiator and Fan, 1 x Big Barrel, and 1 lot of pipe.

The plan is to pump the water from the barrel, through the condensor, through the radiator (bottom to top not top to bottom) then into the barrel again.

Gee, I wonder where ya might have got that idea?
http://www.geocities.com/gnikomson2000/ ... _water.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Filedate Jan/09/2004

[Brett]

taint rocket science, i run a big garden water but 3/4 full of water, theres no way all that water is going to get to hot on a run, but just to be sure the return pipe is attached to the top of the bin so the water comes out and runs down the wall of the bin in a spiral motion, Granted it doesnt get super hot here in england but im not sure if the radiator is needed and if it will give much of a cooling effect compared to say letting the water "sprinkle" down from a height into the water container. if u want maybe even run a fan blowing accross the dripping water.

[Workerbee47]

(I plan on using the internal heating element.)

Well let me see if I can shine a little light on one of many questions asked there, I use 2 electric heat elements, they are both 240 volts the lower one in the boiler is 1500 watts and the next one up is a 3500 watt. I use a 15.5gal beer keg for a boiler, and I do a 25L wash in it. I start out by turning on the 3500W then after about 15sec. I turn on the 1500W, just so I do not have a really big load on the circut all at once, then it takes just under 30min. for my still to come up to operating tempature, so my heat up is quit fast, once it is up to temp. I turn off the 3500W element and just run on the 1500W element for the rest of the run, and I do not have any control on it, it just runs at 240 volts, and 1500W, and that seams to work just fine. By the way I have a valved reflux still, got the plans from moonshinestill.com if you have not been there check it out.

[hummelfahrer]

High there,
I am a very strong advocate of using propane.I have been using it for years without any probs whatsoever.
You have an indefinite amount of heat control.
If your still is well designed,there should not be any leaks of alcohol vapours.
Do not let your distillate splatter into a large-necked pot or vessel.
You are absolutely mobile,meaning you can set up shop anywhere.
A propane burner is about as cheap a source of high heat,as you can get.
I have NEVER known anybody that has blown himself up,using propane as a heat-source.
There are so many positive benefits from using propane.that they by FAR OUTWEIGH the disadvantages.
This is providing you keep a clear head and DON'T smoke while distilling.
Greetings
hummelfahrer

[TEC]

hummelfahrer,

DON'T smoke while distilling

Are you saying a cigarette is more flammable than an open flame?

[pothead]

[possum]

Some kinds of smoking make the head NOT CLEAR...It is good to keep your wits about yourself when dealing with varorized alcohol.

I have had to distill in the kitchen, and don't smoke in the house. I ALWAYS increase the ventelation for both safty and odor control.

[Conquistidor]

I am plannning on using my kitchen stove (natural gas) to run my still. Does anyone suggest against it? Its a 5 gal reflux still (finished last week) and I am gonna run it this weekend... it passed the steam test for no leaks, I took alot of care sodering. thanks.

[Swag]

I use a propane burner and like it a lot. You have a much wider range of heat for a fraction of the cost.
I like to put my collection vessels in the utility sink so if they run over the alcohol goes down the drain instead of on the floor. I haven't had any problems, but I've been pretty careful so far.