Can someone explain Please

[rkidtech]

Hi All,
Right, I think I can understand the general principle of using a triac controller or (burst fire controller) with heat sink, on a boiler with it wired from the controller and through the element. (I can follow things that far I think)
I’m coming a bit unstuck in the method of setting it up, maybe it’s a fundamental misunderstanding on my part, (and probably is).
But do you dial your preset temperature into the controller or (burst fire controller) and is the controller mounted on the boiler side with a water proof sealed sensor going through into the boiler wall in touch with the mash or is it a surface mounted sensor. Thereby keeping a steady current/amps/watts going to your element until such times as the pre-ordained triac controlled temperature is arrived at or is it when the liquid temperature is arrived at? (I’d like to know before I commit to buying a new one on the internet)
Can one of you electronic whiz kids explain to me in a simple and idiot proof way so that I can understand how the hell the whole set up is put together? I like pictures or diagrams (and so would a lot of other lerkers as well I’m sure). Step by step is good for me, leading me gently along by the tightly held bottle.

Geoff

[Brett]

ones iv seen come with a big twisty knob

this controls the power,,, so if u get a 3kw burst fire module n u set the twisty knob to halfway it will run at 1.5 kw 1/3 rd of the way = 1kw ect, it just limits the power going to the element, where it needs to be depends on the liquid temps altitude ect

[sub]

The triac I use needs two equal loads. ie the still and another appliance of equal wattage(DUMMY).

There is a controller attatched to a power out box. This controller has a dial on it which allows you to control how quick the power switches from one side to the other.

So, when I start the run I have the still side on the longest and the dummy side on the shortest.

It sort of looks like this:
NOTE: Power is only ever going to one appliance at a time(It switches)

Start of run or heat up phase

STILL DUMMY
+++++++ + <== Each line represents one cycle
+++++++ +
+++++++ +


Then once the heatup phase is complete I dial the triac down so the loads are more even

STILL DUMMY
++++ ++++
++++ ++++
++++ ++++

Or, if I need to, have the dummy load on longer that the still in each cycle.

STILL DUMMY
+ +++++++
+ +++++++
+ +++++++

The + in each of the above represents time on. One + is equal to about .3 of a sec.

Damn hard for me to explain all of this. I hope I haven't caused any confusion. I will try and find the schematic for the controller I built and post them here, but it was about 5 years ago and I'm not sure where they are now. I know I wouldn't have thrown them out though.

Here is a pic of the controller, however note there is normally another appliance plugged into it when it's operating.

[rkidtech]

Hi Sub,
That’s a nice neat set up you’ve got there. Your picys’ go a long way to settling a lot of my questions.
So to put this together and in perspective, my mains power of 240 volts(in the UK) goes to the triac controller, and as near as dam it, the power continuously goes out to the element at whatever amperages you dial into the triac controller.
Now cheap skate that I am, ( I have an excuse, I’m on disability benefits) if I could get a list of parts for what it’s going to cost from my local Maplin catalogue at http://www.maplin.co.uk onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow and a diagram on how to assemble one that’ll be my next project.
Just to see if I can make it for less than the commercial one that I’ve sourced for £25.99 in the UK or about $37.00 US at this link http://www.rswww.com onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow in the search bar type in CSR2 Series click the second item down on the 15Amp one for the price
Well I made the valved reflux still why not the triac controller?

Geoff

[Brett]

the sutronics pulse control module isnt much more than that £29.99 i think, some of the people here have used that and i intend to get one for my reflux im building, the one iv seen has 2 versions available, one adjustable anywhere between 0 and 3kw and the other with 3 presets 1kw 2 kw and 3kw no need for any dummy loads with this one just feed the mains in to the unit and back out to the element.