Lots of people here use beer kegs (stainless), that's what I use. Milk pails (also stainless) are also popular, or stainless steel cooking pots. Also old hot water heaters (copper) as long as they have no lead solder used on them.
Only Pyrex glass may be heated.
But, even if it's Pyrex, glass is fragile, alcohol is flamable, and so it could be very dangerous...
Go to beer keg... You won't regret.
I'm french speaking!
Boiler : 50 L (13 gal) beer keg, gas heated.
Reflux : 104 cm (41 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter withh SS scrubbers packing.
Potstill : 40 cm (15 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter without packing.
James wrote:mm, thats my dilema. its not too thin, bout a cm think at the base. it was designed for the garden i think so it should be rather tough.
Thicker glass will be more of a problem IMO. Uneven thermal expansion causing stress in the glass is what causes it to break. If you must try it use a water bath. Your wash should not be flammable - just your product - unless you're redistilling it.
I have used a 2L glass flagon (in a water bath) for small-scale runs. The heat conduction of glass is a lot higher than one might first suppose. Having some visibility into the boiler is a nice feature. Labs use glass all the time on account of its inertness (they don't just distill EtOH), but note that round rather than conical flasks are what get assigned to boiler duty.
Glass must be heated very slowly and evenly. What hornedrodent said about thicker being more prone to stress is right on. I would use metal.
Don't get me wrong about glass, I love it, but it does have limitations and difficulties.
Thanks for the help guys i'm gonna try it out first distilling water to see what happens, if it faills then i think i know where to get a keg. When you say keg you do mean like the ones the pubs use? or am i going down the wrong lines?