I finally got a "little" credit from my wife for t

Post by **Husker** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:54 am

Been doing a kitchen remod for the last week (14-20 hours a day, for 6 days). When I got the flooring almost in, and we opened the new dishwasher and started to read instructions, it listed using this hokie setup to connect the water lines. It listed adding a ball valve with 2 outputs to the hot line under the sink, running a braided line under the cabinet basins (we have moved the dishwasher about 8 feet away and around a corner from the sink). Then running a pressure return line, again, under the counters and dump it into the garbage disposal.

I had to laugh at that type of crappy setup. We had a trip to Lowes that day, to get some other stuff, and I designed a full plumbing hookup while in the isle of Lowes. Barb was not really thrilled with this, but I was sure.

Installed a 1.5" line with P trap under the new DW (in the basement), ran the line along the wall to the corner, and cut a Wye into the dump under the sink. Then dropped a T off the hot line (in the basement), and ran 1/2" copper up to the back of the DW. (Also started to replumb the house which is one of our next projects.)

Barb was amazed I could engineer, cut-up, and solder up that copper lines that quickly (took about an hour). I used THIS hobby as where I learned how to do this. That is not totally true (I had these skills prior to building my stills), however, it did buy me some reprise from her constant nagging about me spending so much time with this hobby

H.

Post by **Tater** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 12:16 pm

youll need to run your drain line up as high as the tub in disheasher or your wash water can drain out by gravity

Post by **Husker** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:52 pm

Thank you for the insite.

We were told that the drain line had to go to near the top of the cabinet (if running the under the cabinet into the disposal method). So it sounds like I still need to "loop" that return line and attach to the wall above the level of the tub, prior to attaching it to the output drain.

Thanks for the info, or I would have been scratching my head, trying to figure out why the dam thing did not wash well

H.

msrorysdad · Post by **msrorysdad** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 3:55 pm

you are a tinkerer, proving my theory, if you run a still, you probably are a do it yourselfer. Husk, there are only two things you gotta know 'bout plumbin, shit runs down hill, and it costs alot to have someone else channel it. Your common sense and some time, and you'll have it whipped. Run the drain up high like was stated.

Rudi · Post by **Rudi** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 1:39 pm

Husker I know exactly where your coming from. We have just redone our bathroom had a plumber do it.For some reason hardly any water pressure to the cold tap in the shower all othe cold taps were fine plumber was called back twice on two seperate days and decided it must be a problem in the wall (the one I had just built I also did the combination and the plumbing inside the wall)bloody diyers he says.I get home start chasing the water pressure from the outside line had to cut out and redo two elbows anda tee find where it drops across a 1/2 inch elbow cut it out and heres a screw wedged in the elbow my plumbing skills learnt building stills saves the day shes happy Im happy happy days

Post by **Husker** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 1:55 pm

Nice to be able to do it, without having to shell out a few bills to a plumber (probably 3-4 bills).

Just finished up today. Got the DW setup (and RUNNING!!!), and the sink basin is now installed. I hope tonight to get the counter tops in, but that may not be fully done until Sunday evening. The wife is working, so my help is limited right now.

However, since copper is back to "normal", I do plan on replumbing the whole house, and getting a tankless gas heater (Renia (sp)) and a new conditioner. However, that is a project for another week

H.

mtnwalker2 · Post by **mtnwalker2** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 4:02 pm

[quote="Husker"]Nice to be able to do it, without having to shell out a few bills to a plumber (probably 3-4 bills).

Ha! I have a neighbor who is a doctor. He had a plumbing problem, called a plumber who quickly fixed it, and handed him the bill.

Outraged, he yelled I'm a doctor and I don't make that kind of money.

Calmly the plumber said "I didn't either, when I was a doctor!

Post by **bourbonbob** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 4:30 pm

Plumbing has got to be the biggest bullshit trade ever. If you can solder and you know that fall is 1 in 60, there's not much more to learn. I do all my own plumbing, I don't earn enough money to hire one.

mtnwalker2 · Post by **mtnwalker2** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 5:10 pm

bourbonbob wrote:Plumbing has got to be the biggest bullshit trade ever. If you can solder and you know that fall is 1 in 60, there's not much more to learn. I do all my own plumbing, I don't earn enough money to hire one.

Maybe, become a plumber, you could hire a doctor to do all the "shitty" work and have money left over. Meybe, buy his house when he goes belly up from all the insurance he has to carry.

junkyard dawg · Post by **junkyard dawg** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:07 pm

husker, I put a tankless water heater in my home. They are great, but are best if there are short runs of pipe to the outlet. My kitchen sink takes a long time to get hot water to it. The shower tho... thats awesome...

Post by **Husker** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:00 pm

junkyard dawg wrote:husker, I put a tankless water heater in my home. They are great, but are best if there are short runs of pipe to the outlet. My kitchen sink takes a long time to get hot water to it. The shower tho... thats awesome...

Water heater will be dead center in the house. Longest run will be about 30'. I think that should be fine. Should be little different than my tank heater today. It still has to blow out the cold water in the lines. Kitchen sink takes about 10s and the tub takes about 6-8s. That is quick enough for me.

H.

Post by **Husker** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:09 pm

bourbonbob wrote:Plumbing has got to be the biggest bullshit trade ever. If you can solder and you know that fall is 1 in 60, there's not much more to learn. I do all my own plumbing, I don't earn enough money to hire one.

Yes, if all you had to do was run new lines, or fix pipe (like I just did). However, usually you would get called because someone tried to push a 2.5" turd down a 2" pipe that is already half clogged. Of they have been flushing their tampons for a while, and wonder why when they flush upstairs, that the downstairs basement drain pukes.

Stuff like that is not my cup of tea. If all it was, was measuring pipe, cutting it, dry fitting, and soldering it together (or glueing the waste pvc pipes), then hell yes, I could do that at $75-$125 an hour.

H.

mtnwalker2 · Post by **mtnwalker2** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 9:14 pm

Not only that, but seems, no matter how organized you plan, you are a fiting short, a fiting short a fiting etc.

I would put the tankless hot water heater the closest to my most used water need, like the the kitchen, and if I had a bath some distance away, and had a still usable hot water heater, I would put them in series and insulate the pipes well. Just turn the large tank down low with the thermostats.

olcarguy · Post by **olcarguy** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 12:32 pm

There's three things you have to know to be a plumber.....Shit flows down hill.....Every asshole is a customer......Payday is Thursday.

Rudi · Post by **Rudi** » Wed Apr 04, 2007 6:27 pm

Worst job apprentice plumber they get all the SHIT jobs.

Post by **Uncle Jesse** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:27 pm

it's a great trade. as long as we live people are going to want their sinks, tubs, showers and toilets to work properly and they are going to be willing to pay top dollar to get these things fixed saturday night.