Boiling Yeast???

[ER70S-2]

I'm still in the research phase and going through the main site and had a couple questions I was hoping you could all answer.
Under the "Preparing Wash" section it says for a sugar wash the following...
"Basically the same as for beer making, but a lot easier. Use a 25L beer fermentor, sanitised by soaking full of water + 150 mL bleach for half an hour. Dissolve 5 kg of white table sugar and 100g of yeast nutrients in 4L of boiling water, then top up to a total of 20L using cold water."
I didn't think we were supposed to boil the yeast, or do they mean to add it after cooling?

On the same topic they recommend using EC1118 for a plain sugar mash but they only describe throwing in a 100 grams for a turbo effect, if you were just wanting to use it the "normal" way how much would you add. Say for instance like stated above, 20 liters of water with 5kg of sugar?

"For plain sugar mashes (to be made into vodka) the best bet is Lalvin's EC-1118 - it has an 18% alcohol tolerance and is faster than the K1V-1116 - but it tends to result in a stale, brackish flavor in the wine and the distillate - making it a bad choice for a wine yeast (by overpitching this yeast - 100grams in 20 liters and about 100 grams of yeast nutrient with 6-8 kilos of sugar you can make your own Turbo- style yeast) - carbon polishing will take care of the stale taste from this yeast- making it a good vodka yeast.

Thanks
I am reading the main page but would like to clarify these questions before proceeding to actually make something
ER70s-2

[grainhopper]

[Johnny Reb]

I'm still in the research phase and going through the main site and had a couple questions I was hoping you could all answer.
Under the "Preparing Wash" section it says for a sugar wash the following...
"Basically the same as for beer making, but a lot easier. Use a 25L beer fermentor, sanitised by soaking full of water + 150 mL bleach for half an hour. Dissolve 5 kg of white table sugar and 100g of yeast nutrients in 4L of boiling water, then top up to a total of 20L using cold water."

Comment: The above method is adding sugar to a small amount of water and then topping off to get approx 15% wash. EC1118 is tolerant to around 18% if done properly.

I didn't think we were supposed to boil the yeast, or do they mean to add it after cooling?

Answer: Add the yeast after the water temp has dropped to around 80 degrees

On the same topic they recommend using EC1118 for a plain sugar mash but they only describe throwing in a 100 grams for a turbo effect, if you were just wanting to use it the "normal" way how much would you add. Say for instance like stated above, 20 liters of water with 5kg of sugar?

Answer: EC1118 is bought in 5g packets at around US$1.00 Each and will ferment a 5 gallon batch and that by using 100g is making it a turbo yeast... I would only use 1 packet. Its not worth the money to me to run a turbo

"For plain sugar mashes (to be made into vodka) the best bet is Lalvin's EC-1118 - it has an 18% alcohol tolerance and is faster than the K1V-1116 - but it tends to result in a stale, brackish flavor in the wine and the distillate - making it a bad choice for a wine yeast (by overpitching this yeast - 100grams in 20 liters and about 100 grams of yeast nutrient with 6-8 kilos of sugar you can make your own Turbo- style yeast) - carbon polishing will take care of the stale taste from this yeast- making it a good vodka yeast.

Comment: They are discribing a way to make a turbo yeast

If you make a sugar wash to turn it into a vodka then who cares what yeast is used cause you strip the flavor from the mash when you make vodka. I would say buy a pound of distillers yeast and use a teaspoon per 5 gallon batch cause thats what I did and this weekend I will be running it to make a Vodka. I would also sugguest that you buy some DAP (4 tsp to 5 gallons) or Yeast Neutriant (5 tsp to 5 gallons) and add it to the sugar wash so the yeast have a proper environment to multiply and to convert the sugar. Stir the wash 3 to 5 times daily during the first couple of days as the yeast also need alot of oxygen

Thanks
I am reading the main page but would like to clarify these questions before proceeding to actually make something
ER70s-2

Johnny Reb

[ER70S-2]

Hey Johny
That answers my questions and helps alot. From what I read before I was going to go with the 5 grams of yeast but what read confused me a bit.
Thanks,I appreciate the help
ER70S-2
P.s. I'll get some ofg that DAP or nutrient then, I guess I should be able to pick that up at a wine/beer making store eh.

[Johnny Reb]

Hey Johny
That answers my questions and helps alot. From what I read before I was going to go with the 5 grams of yeast but what read confused me a bit.
Thanks,I appreciate the help
ER70S-2
P.s. I'll get some ofg that DAP or nutrient then, I guess I should be able to pick that up at a wine/beer making store eh.

I had to look at it a couple times myself to understand what they was trying to say.

DAP and Yeast Neutriant are almost the same and some people refer to both as the same. The DAP is just a bit different from Yeast Neutriant and both will work. Some people prefer one over the other but if you have a local homebrew ask them. Alot of beer makers use DAP instead of Yeast Neutriant

Johnny Reb

[HookLine]

Commercial yeast nutrient contains a lot more than just DAP.

According to this site

http://www.bettabrew.com.au/html/wine/wineaids.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

"Fermaid contains autolysed yeast which have been grown to contain high concentrations of amino acids mixed with di-ammonium phosphate, magnesium sulphate, thiamine, folic acid, niacin and calcium pantothenate."