There seems to be a bit of confusion as to the best time to rack a wash for clearing.
1) when the S.G. reaches 1.000 or less?
2) after the foam cap collapses?
3) after 3 days have passed?
4) when the airlock stops bubbling?
5) when the airlock bubbles slow down?
All of these have been quoted at various times.
What type of wash/mash do you do and when do you rack?
When to rack the wash/mash
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When to rack the wash/mash
2"x38" Bok mini and
Pot still with Leibig on 45 litre boiler
Pot still with Leibig on 45 litre boiler
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- Rumrunner
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First, I don't rack my washes/mashes, as I don't have internal elements. I don't have any experience with burning in the still, so I don't know how clear y'all need it to be.
In any case, you can rack wine (wash/mash) pretty much any time you want, but it makes sense to do that after the "fiery" fermentation is complete. I.e. let the wine settle down and stop visibly bubbling before you rack. Some ferments are really active, like rolling ferments (you;ll know it when you see it), others are really slow and calm (just co2 popping).
The wine has finished fermentation when SG is less than 1. Without measuring, chances are that you might be going to be running some unfermented sugar along with the alcohol in the was/mash.
Each fermentation can take a different amount of time, depending on temperature, strength of yeast colony, etc. So, counting days doesn't make sense.
That's why using a hydrometer is important and smart.
Aidas
In any case, you can rack wine (wash/mash) pretty much any time you want, but it makes sense to do that after the "fiery" fermentation is complete. I.e. let the wine settle down and stop visibly bubbling before you rack. Some ferments are really active, like rolling ferments (you;ll know it when you see it), others are really slow and calm (just co2 popping).
The wine has finished fermentation when SG is less than 1. Without measuring, chances are that you might be going to be running some unfermented sugar along with the alcohol in the was/mash.
Each fermentation can take a different amount of time, depending on temperature, strength of yeast colony, etc. So, counting days doesn't make sense.
That's why using a hydrometer is important and smart.
Aidas
Nisi te iuvat cibus, plus bibe vini!
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- retired
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My ferments usually take a total time of about 10-14 days from start to when they go into the still. The breakdown is:
Up to a week to completely stop bubbling.
Another 4-5 days for a diacetyl rest, and to let the bulk of the solids settle.
Then carefully rack it off into another container, add clearing agent (egg white), and wait two more days.
Lastly, carefully rack off again, and into the still with it!
PS. I use an internal element.
Up to a week to completely stop bubbling.
Another 4-5 days for a diacetyl rest, and to let the bulk of the solids settle.
Then carefully rack it off into another container, add clearing agent (egg white), and wait two more days.
Lastly, carefully rack off again, and into the still with it!
PS. I use an internal element.
Be safe.
Be discreet.
And have fun.
Be discreet.
And have fun.
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- Swill Maker
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I would tend to go with the hydrometer reading, the other methods you quoted are unscientific at best. Once youve made many many wash's you'll be able to tell based on your senses. Until then stick with the hydrometer.
If your racking into your boiler I would wait until its below 1.000
If your racking into another container to further settle and maybe to fine then racking at 1.000 or slightly above is not too much a concern.
I rack directly into my boiler after fermentation is complete (I use propane)
If your racking into your boiler I would wait until its below 1.000
If your racking into another container to further settle and maybe to fine then racking at 1.000 or slightly above is not too much a concern.
I rack directly into my boiler after fermentation is complete (I use propane)