guys with electric heat control

[MuleKicker]

How are you guys that are running electric controlling your heat? I recently went from a 1650 element to a 3000. i like it because it goes to temp faster, but i want to be able to turn it down when it gets there. before with 1650, that was the perfect amount of heat to keep on, i think. I have a bad ass controller (some of you may have seen in my intro post) but it runs on a temp sensor that is in the keg. so it tries to get to a target temp before shutting down. I think this is bad because it pulses the current to the element off and on, I should be getting a rheostat or something to control current to the element instead, i think. anythoughts?

[Rod]

this may help

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8002

I have been using the unit for a year now , works fine

[olddog]

Fit Both elements to your boiler, use the higher temp one to get up to speed then transfer to the lower temp one for the run.

[MuleKicker]

Perfect, thought of adding another element, just dont want to drill more holes in the keg. I know what i have to do, i just have to convince my partner of this. he is the electric genius, and i have to explain that we cannot control this thing on temp input, and that pulsing the current to the element is not the same as varying current or heat input.

[Dutch John]

Electric control puzzled me for a long time too. Electronic devices like triacs are not my thing. Thermostatic control is too coarse.

I took a plain pulse-pause relay. That is a time relay on which you can set the "on" time and the "off" time of the heating element. You need to find the right settings and the amount of reflux has also some influence. But once found, you could leave the settings for hours and have a constant 78 degrees on the bridge. Take on-off intervals of seconds to 10 seconds. If the heating element is embedded in the bottom the time spread can be longer compared to a direct heating element.

It is wise to have the time relay command a proper high-amp normal relay. Time relays tend to be weak.

Regards,
DJ

[MuleKicker]

dj, you might be on to something, my controller is able to control on/off time, although it is quite a task to go in and program a change. the fact still remains, my controller is working on temp of the keg, and you cannot run on temp. temp is reletive to composition of wash. so normally i get it to start boiling around 82-4c and shut down at about 97-8c (on a stripping run) i cant set my controller to say 98c because it will pour full heat until it reaches 98c i need to add something to the equation that regulates current to the element so i can get max output but not over work my condenser.

[Dutch John]

No fancy programming or temp sensors. Just two knobs which I can turn with my thick fingers. And one batch to find the right settings. Just beware about the amount of reflux. Changing that needs changing the on-off settings. Once you got the settings: a rocksteady temp on the bridge and a slow going up temp on the boiler.

If I would choose fancy programming, then it should work fully automatic. Put in the plug, leave and after 5 hours I want to find 2.5 liters of 95% spirit while the set is cooling down. But that is crazy. You want to be around, because it is a hobby. Then why not choose the most simple, cheap, but well working control?

Regards,
DJ

[LWTCS]

Hey rod, I've read that post several times now (among others).

I bought a 4500w element and thought that perhaps the variac 240v. controller would be my best bet,,,,,,,,,,,,,till I started putting together some pricing.

I wonder what the bulk of the American membership uses?
I have read many varied opinions regarding this topic.

I was, till a week ago still pretty sure that (for me) the stove top would work well for my schedule...............Till i scored 2 free kegs!

So now I am certainly convincing myself that I will save a total amount of aggragate stilling time with the larger boiler.

I would like a reasonably quick heat up time.

More dialog please.

[SaltUbar]

Hi Guys,

Take a look at this you can get these devices in both 240 and 110 volts and they work great.

I use a standard home combanation power meter (walmart) to check power (wattage) going to the element and I just the watch to 60% of max once the boiler is up to temp.

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =2&t=10373

Regards Ubar

[sebas]

how about a induction cooking-plate ,those are realy fast and very precise

[Ghostkeeper]

how about a induction cooking-plate ,those are realy fast and very precise

That will work for SS, but not copper, copper being non-ferrous n' all. But for SS, has anyone tried this? I could see some possibilities.

[Dnderhead]

I think you buy pots/pans laminated with steel plates or use magnetic stanless.