Complete reflux still build...

[shifty]

As with my pot still build, i thought this may be of some help to some noobs....
Pictures tell most of the info...

Building the coil.... I think if i did it again id wind a lot more coils....


With end cap inside 12" tube....


At the bottom of the 12" tube is the T section in another end cap....The other coil in the shot is just one i wasnt happy with...




Overflow and take off tap.....


Lower section and take off lay out....






After a couple of runs i thought this pot scrubber inside the condenser made quite a difference. Probably because i didnt really have enough coils in the condenser maybe?





This is by no means the greatest build around but it produces 93% no problem.. I just thought some build photos could help some crew out....
Also i run a temp gauge just below the T section which i have no photo's of....
Cheers all.....

[hallzy]

Hey Shifty,

The photo's are good, as they say "a picture speaks a thousand words".

[HookLine]

Nice work.

Definitely use a scrubber in that coil.

The spacing between successive winds of the coil should be around 3 mm (1/8"). Any more is just wasting space.

And where is your column insulation?

[schnell]

any problems with the hose strapped against the hot column?

[shifty]

any problems with the hose strapped against the hot column?

Dont seem to be any problems this way. That black hose is transmission line Which my boss was not overly happy about me using. Apparantly its quite expensive
Good point about the insulation too... ill get right onto it....

[pumpman]

Doesn't look very sturdy on that burner.

[shifty]

Doesn't look very sturdy on that burner.

Correct you are.... the intention was to build a stand there for the barrel......Eventually...

[jdonly1]

Top job mate

[shifty]

Top job mate

Thanks mate.
I see your a fellow Vicco....

[plonker]

Good on ya shifty, nice job too!

It's people like you posting info like this that gets everyone into the hobby.

Now just have to post up my build..

[tykenfitz]

Sorry for noob questions, do you think that a design like this would work at a smaller scale, like with a 10l stock pot and a shorter column?

Cool design, how much did that copper tubing run ya?

[tykenfitz]

Sorry a bout the double post , but I just realized I don't quite get hoe this works. The vapor condenses at the top around the coil, correct? How, then, does the liquid distillate get into your valved out-line?

[HookLine]

Check out the 3rd and 4th picture again.

[shifty]

Sorry for noob questions, do you think that a design like this would work at a smaller scale, like with a 10l stock pot and a shorter column?

Cool design, how much did that copper tubing run ya?

I'd say it would work fine just the way it is on a stock pot that size.
I'm of the opinion the longer the reflux column the better.
I scored that 2" pipe for free from a plumber friend. All the other stuff cost me aprox $80 or so.

[tykenfitz]

I still don't think I get it. Does the liquid collect at the valve and in the tee but some of it goes back to the boiler? Does this horrible drawing describe it?

[HookLine]

Correct. The tee arrangement traps liquid condensate falling from the reflux condenser into a dam, while still letting fresh vapour come through from the column. Any excess condensate not taken off as product overflows back down the tee, onto the top of the packing in the column and sets up the reflux cycle.

[shifty]

That really is a terrible drawing indeed! It reminds me of one of mine....

Your exactly right in what your saying. When it gets to the top of the tee, it overflows back into the reflux column. But because the take off pipe is lower, you can take off what you need when you need....

[shifty]

I was a little slow there in the reply... Yeah, exactly what Hook said...

[tykenfitz]

Thanks guys!

[drinka]

Any chance of sum dimensions/pipe sizes etc? Cheers.

[shifty]

Any chance of sum dimensions/pipe sizes etc? Cheers.

The main reflux column is 2" and the coil and output are 1/4"..

[drinka]

Any chance of sum dimensions/pipe sizes etc? Cheers.

The main reflux column is 2" and the coil and output are 1/4"..

What size is the tee piece? And is the outlet pipe to the valve a tight fit into it? Thanks.

[shifty]

Any chance of sum dimensions/pipe sizes etc? Cheers.

The main reflux column is 2" and the coil and output are 1/4"..

What size is the tee piece? And is the outlet pipe to the valve a tight fit into it? Thanks.

Im not really sure about the tee piece size but id say it's about half inch..
As for the pipe to valve thing, they have there own nut fittings that are self sealing. Im not sure of the correct terms here..
If your thinking of doing this build you should just print the photo and take it to the plumbing supplies. A picture tells a thousand words they say....
Just dont tell em what it is!

[decoy]

your still looks ver nice and well made..

A few sugestions:

Insulate the entire column to just below the take of or where you have the T pice.
Also place some insulation on top of the Keg.

make a shroud that you can sits around the keg just above the higest water line
you can use an old 100L drum, cut one end off and to length and cut a hole
in the other end the the dia of the Keg + 10mm so the heat from the burner
is working on the walls of the keg

If you are having condensation problems and winding the coil here are two sugestions.


1. you can wind a coil around the outside it dosent have to be solderd all the way around
just at the start and finish is enough,but wind it tight against the column and have someone
tighten and pull on the coil when you brase it.

2. you are useing a 50mm or 2" tube for your column you can get 2.5" tube for an outer sleave
i have a pipe cutter with 2 cutting discs, one of the discs is an old used one that i ran on a grinder
to make it extra blunt.
if you run that around the tube it will crimp it in then put the sharp blade on to cut or a saw.
a little tap with a hamer and dolly will close it in, nice and tight.
i think you get the rest.

those Gal Tek screws you are using will rust badly after the first couple of runs, you can get Stainles Tek Screws
or re drill and tap some bolt holes and weld a T or wingnut to the end of the nuts.

hope that helps..

[Ayay]

Nice work shifty, you have a neat LM reflux still. Those gold coloured tec screws (zinc is grey) are probably cadmium coated...good cheap rust protection but you will be drinking traces of cadmium if any is exposed to the alc vapors. Fix it as per decoy's suggestions ASP...now...yesterday just in case! Stainless screws and nuts and bolts are quite common in the hardware shop nowdays.

Insulating the column and top half of the boiler is a cheap and effective up-grade for any reflux still. You will get the same or better output while burning less gas. Fibreglass wool and rockwool can go close to the heat. I use a cotton lint blanket with an outer skin of sisalation. There's also the reflective bubble wrap and various foam sleeves/sheets. Anything is better than nothing.

I plan to upgrade to lint blanket/plaster of paris in three or four layers, or roof insulation/plaster of paris. The plan is to leave as much air pockets in the wool as possible and get the plaster to lock it all up and make it hard-skinned as well as flame proof. I remember reading a post where cement will do instead of plaster of paris.

[shifty]

Nice work boys, and some great tips there.
Ill get right onto making those changes ASAP...

[decoy]

I was checking out picture 5, intresting workboots you guys have down there in Vic..

those work cover or OH&S approved.. ?

[shifty]

Er.....ah yes they are weekend work safe approved!

[JethroBodine]

Shifty, thanks for inspiring my first LM build. I used 2' of 1.5" for the column, 1 foot for the condensor and collector, 9.5' of 1/4" for the coil( wrapped around a 1/2" pipe on the way down and around itself on the way up) that was soldered to the cap( with safety hole, like yours ), a 1/2" tee inside a 1.25 cap( had to cut the two horizontal parts off for room). I'm leaving the coil removeable, and everything can be exchanged with my next project, a VM head based off mineme's threads. These will both sit on a 20l stock pot. Copper mesh where applicable, and even have a 3/8" by 8" liebig to add on if the output is too warm. I really liked the simplicity of this set up, and hopefull soon we can compare numbers for output.

[shifty]

Glad to hear the shots have been some help to you mate. Just keep in mind that im quite the amateur here so take note of the other more experienced people throwing all that other really important info in too.
Im gunna make those changes recommended asap...
On another note, ive had the finished product tested at a lab for % and nasties! Cant wait for the results...