Soldering advice needed

[davidwh]

Hello all,

Read the soldering sticky and thought this aint going to be fun. To be straight not had metal work experience b4 and I'm having issues with soldering new pot still.

Process I've used is clean joints, good dose of flux. Using a lead free solder and matching water based flux witha propane tourch 1/2" head.

Heat each piece gradually , moving toward join. Flux fizzles off, when i apply the solder it balls up and runs off.

my gut instinct is its not hot enough. Any suggestions other than Trial and error?

btw for a novice would it be better to use propane to heat invest in a decent soldering iron and use the iron for making joins...thinking is it would add more control or feel.

Is there a best method to remove excess solder like over runs ?

[olddog]

You are not getting the copper hot enough before applying solder, do not direct your torch at the flux but either side of it when heating up, when you think it is hot enough apply the solder, if it dosn't flow, continue heating either side of the joint. To remove excess solder, get a horse hair brush, heat the solder until it flows and brush off the surplus with the brush, be carefull you don't flick it onto yourself, it will hurt.
Once you have cleaned off the surplus you can clean up whats remaining with a block of wood and some fine emery cloth.
A soldering iron will be a waste of time if you are soldering anything of size.



OD

[davidwh]

OD,

Very much appreciated...

I'm not expecting artistic perfection as a novice (consider your still ..brilliant!) but I dont want to cringe each time I run the still up either.

cheers

[olddog]

David wh, what size copper are you soldering?
I built everything with a Bernzomatic propane torch $39.95, until I went on to my 4"column which sucked out too much heat, I had to upgrade to a Mapp torch.


OD

[LWTCS]

If your flame bounces off your copper with a green color,,,,,,you are plenty hot enough.

When your copper is hot enough, you can remove the heat and apply the stick to the joint and the hot copper will suck the solder into the joint quite easily. Apply more heat as needed.


Not so pro tip:
save enough solder to splash liberally all over the floor and bench top


Good luck

[olddog]

save enough solder to splash liberally all over the floor and bench top

I have not been able to master this step yet


OD

[davidwh]

Hello all,

Thanks to those who responded.

Success! it was lack of heat...now have solder flowing like butter on hot toast...has restored my faith!

Again my thanks,
cheers dave

[davidwh]

Hello all,

Two small follow up pts on novice soldering adventures...

OD suggested a natural fibre brush for cleaning up over runs...tried like hell could not find one. Did manage to get a 3 pack of brushes from Bunnings including 1 softer steel one about the size of a toothbrush..$2.50 AUD @ Bunnings...great help.

sadly only found this yesterday...ran out of solder...Got hold of a much thinner gauge lead free solder..it's more precise to use and reduces over runs compared to previous thick type which on initial touch was way too heavy. Makes a significant differnce to joint appearance imo.

cheers
dave

[LWTCS]

WTG Dave.

Can also take a dry rag a wipe the joint while all is still hot.

Be careful though

[ozone39]

Try dabbing the solder. As the joint gets hot just lightly tap the joint with the solder til it flows. Hit all four quadrants of the joint with this technique. It takes very little solder to seal a joint with 100 percent fusion (pushing the solder into the joint is not necessary). As well try and take a damp (water) cloth just after the solder exits its paste form, The flux will clean right off with a nice shine to it....

[myles]

Want to but in here with a question as you might find the answer usefull at some point.

I just soldered a copper 2" NPT / 2" female adaptor onto my column. No problem except the solder flowed into the threads and it took some time to clean out. I had oxidised the threads with the flame before soldering to try and stop this but it did not work.

Anyone know of something that you can fill the threads with that can withstand soldering temperatures, to stop the solder getting into them?

[olddog]

Try putting a stainless steel pipe clamp (jubilee clip) around the thread and screw up tight, that might do the trick.


OD

[myles]

Try putting a stainless steel pipe clamp (jubilee clip) around the thread and screw up tight, that might do the trick.


OD

Thanks olddog, should have said it was a female threaded adaptor. Was wondering if something like vaseline or some other grease would work. Or would it just burn. Have a vague memory of something about carbon, as in pencil lead working as a solder block. Smoke from a candle flame perhaps?

[Mud Mechanik]

Myles, is there any way to turn it up side down to solder?

[olddog]

If you lay the joint on its side, and apply the heat to the fitting, apply the solder and the heat will draw the solder into the joint.


OD

[myles]

Myles, is there any way to turn it up side down to solder?

Yes you can do this and apply the solder to the inside of the fitting but it is a bit fiddly. Just wondered if anyone had an easy fix to the problem - other than "stop using too much solder"

looked on a plumbing forum and someone said that Tipex correction fluid works. It leaves a chalky residue when heated that resists the solder but cleans off easily. Any resistant 'gunk' that you put on would have to clean of easily AND not get into your joint.

Proper soldering technique is probably the real answer. I tend to have drips of solder expecially on the 2" tube.

[LWTCS]

is there any way to turn it up side down to solder?

If I understand,,, just get it hot enough and the solder will will draw itself up into the joint.

Laying on it's side or turning upside down can help with a nice tidy joint but is not requisite for a leak free joint.