New Take on a Great Design... ODs Magic Flute - Mark 2...

[Samohon]

Lets have a look at the Laminar Fin and internal Shotgun Dephlegmater...

Lam and Shot DRAWING Rev2.pdf

Drawing at A3 Format...

(113.89 KiB) Downloaded 886 times

All these drawings and Illustrations will serve to give us a very detailed resource complete with parts list and step by step in structions on how to build...

and so it continues... Just noticed the new Smilies, big hand for the mods...

[Usge]

Got a question Sam....what keeps the refluxing distillate dripping down from above from throwing the therms' reading off?

[Samohon]

Got a question Sam....what keeps the refluxing distillate dripping down from above from throwing the therms' reading off?

The thermometer probe is shielded within its own port and never comes into contact with the refluxed distillate on its way to the trays. Dont know how the other guys have done this, but I will do it with a scalloped ½" pipe... I'll do a quick drawing of it tomorrow as a piccie speaks a thousand words...

Good question Usge...

[jimsbrotherjack]

Any chance you guys can put all the downloads on page #1? Just trying to get all your progress files together. Thanks! Looking forward to this build once you guys have a complete parts list and details together...

[olddog]

I thought I would share with you some pics of a MkII going together.
All the plates and downcomers have been soldered into the column, the dephlegmater and laminair are fitted and the top plate soldered to the column. The product condenser is finished ( it is only slip fitted to the column for the pic) to be permanently fitted to the column later.
I am currently turning some nipples to fit into the rear of the column for the plate dissabling system, this will be soldered into place once I get my valves which are on order.

I cut the column a bit short, so I will be extending the a bit more, as when I would be mounting it on the keg it would not have enough clearance for the parrot to be fitted, I guess one stuff up is not too bad. Once I get it mounted onto a keg, I will then do the plumbing for the cooling system. I will report again when I get a bit more done.



OD

[Chiller]

Damn OD, looking sweet! Must have been a PITA soldering all those plates AND weirs in without de-soldering anything/using too much solder - did you just tin the edges then heat from outside, or is this an OD trade secret ?

[Mr.Spooky]

man that looks great OD!!!
the heigth thing was the only thing that i ran across when i was concidering doing a "drop in deflag". im gonna go ahead and do a external deflag just because of that,, but if you wanted to get the product condensor a little higher,,,,, you could do a piece of 4" witha few extra plates in it that could be added or removed.
spooky

[olddog]

the heigth thing was the only thing that i ran across when i was concidering doing a "drop in deflag". im gonna go ahead and do a external deflag just because of that

The height will be the same, whether it's inside or on top of the column.


OD

[Cascade]

Wow, that looks really great! I may have to try building one of these.

[olddog]

I managed to get the tubes fitted to the column for the plate drain system today, all I have to do is wait for the valves to arrive now.

OD

[LWTCS]

I was wondering, wouldn't directing reflux from one plate to another plate mess up the equilibration of the column? I thought a plate was more of a thermal environment rather than a physical plate. If you direct cooler condensate from a higher up plate to a lower plate, aren't you essentially making two plates with the same/similar thermal environment, thus negating the "plate"? It seems to me that a more stable approach would be to send it all back to the boiler and have it start over again.

Try reading Mike Nixon's paper to better understand what is happening.
As high (higher than the boiler) ABV rises and condenses at each plate level it will totally fill the plate and also more (cooler) vapor will continue to rise and fill to the next level plate. All the while each plate contines to fill and then spill down higher abv liquid to the next lower plate. It is the abv on the plate that establishes the temp on the plate.

It is the rising High ABV vapor and the cycling down High abv liquid that creates the dynamic boost in abv and creates a very efficient stilling environment. Sending previously distilled alcohol back to the boiler that contains large amounts of water just dilutes the cycling process..

[Rum Bum]

It looks sharp so far! In the diagrams it shows the pipe that goes off the column going all the way threw to the other side for more support, I see you just soldered yours straight to it. Which I'm sure is fine with your solder skills, you make everything look like a breeze Minor detail but if you had gone all the way through, would you just drill some holes in the bottom of the pipe to keep the vapor flow?... Would you use slits, holes, or cut a large slice out?

It doesn't seem like anyone has done a run in pot still mode only but would you be able to make a guess about what ABV you think you'd get?


RB

[olddog]

It looks sharp so far! In the diagrams it shows the pipe that goes off the column going all the way threw to the other side for more support, I see you just soldered yours straight to it. Which I'm sure is fine with your solder skills, you make everything look like a breeze Minor detail but if you had gone all the way through, would you just drill some holes in the bottom of the pipe to keep the vapor flow?... Would you use slits, holes, or cut a large slice out?

My original design does not have the pipe going through, Samohon made it that way for easier construction.



OD

[Rum Bum]

So I'm guessing if I made it that way, I'd just need to drill say, 3 or 4 1/2" holes side-by-side into the 1" pipe, and it would still be structurally sturdy.

RB

[radiatorboy]

i got my 2m of 4" order today for my 10 plater. i take it the drain valves would come off behind the downcomer so if you are redirecting it to a lower plate it would not upset the flow a cross the plate.

[Samohon]

In the diagrams it shows the pipe that goes off the column going all the way threw to the other side for more support, I see you just soldered yours straight to it.

Ther are 2 ways to do this... If, like OD, your soldering skills are up for it, then mounting the pipe directly onto the face of the 4" pipe is the way to go. If not, the the pipe can be put all the way through the 4", capped and scalloped... Would even add a little more rigidity IMO...

Heres a pdf showing this...

Laminar Fins and Take Off-1.pdf

(69.89 KiB) Downloaded 849 times

Hope it helps guys...

Note: All drawings, illustrations, methods on construction and running tutorials will be available both at the end of this thread and will be posted into the Drawing and Diagrams thread in the Research and Theory Forum. It will serve to make the flute accessible to all members and help overcome the more difficult parts of the build should they want to construct one. Members wishing for all drawings to be stationed at the front of the thread will have to follow along as the design grows and changes. Once we are all agreed that the design is at a stage where proven results outweighs feasibility, especially regarding plate disablement, the data will be collated, formatted and presented in a way that is useful to all levels within the membership... Thanks Olddog...

and so it continues...

[olddog]

Actually the connection to the column is not just a plain butt joint, I drill a hole large enough for the tube to just go through, then I have machined a brass ring which fits over the connecting tube, then the whole lot is soldered together. This then turns out like a thick brass flange which gives a lot firmer and stronger joint than a plain butt joint. I have used this method to attach the tubes for the plate dissabling system to the back of the column too.



OD

[Samohon]

Like a tank connector OD..?

This is a 28mm one:

28mm Tank Connector...

Tank-Con.jpg (6.08 KiB) Viewed 3966 times

Could be tinned on the inside, connected to the 4", then soldered into place... What do you think..?

[olddog]

Like a tank connector OD..?

No its only a brass ring about 1/4"thick that just slips over the tube, and when soldered to the tube and the column it makes a firmer joint without having to put gobs of solder to make it stronger.
The brass does not enter the column or come in contact with either vapor or distillate.


OD

[Samohon]

Could probably use a brass olive shaped to the OD of the 4" with a bastard file... Their about 3/16" thick in the middle here...

Thanks mate...

[LWTCS]

makes a firmer joint without having to put gobs of solder to make it stronger.

Not quite sure what you are trying to say there,,,,,but I shall restrain myself from experiencing the personal humiliation that you seem to be hoisting upon my soldering skills..

Boostin post count and testin the new smiley deals.

[olddog]

Perhaps this makes it a bit clearer, its just a supporting ring to make a wider base to the tube when soldering onto the column.



OD

[guittarmaster]

Damn she's pretty OD! I can't wait to hear how she preforms! By any chance did you take photos of how you soldered those plates and weirs in there? did you do it one at a time?
usage, could you post detailed pics on how you tackle it? I'm more than a little interested in this.

GM

[olddog]

By any chance did you take photos of how you soldered those plates and weirs in there?

You can just see the soldering on the bottom plate in my last pic. The method was first mentioned by LWTCS when he built his thump tower, You position the plate in the column, then cut a length of soft silver solder, and bend it so it fits around the inside of the column, you then flux the column and plate and drop the solder ring into the column which should then sit on the proposed joint area where the plate contact the column. You then apply heat to the outside of the column in the area where the plate sits. Its important to move your torch away as soon as you see the solder melting, otherwise too much heat will liquify the solder and it will run through the joint and down the inside of the column, but the outside /inside method works well in places where you can't get a torch.


OD

[Usge]

For anyone who is also building a 2" version of this, morebeer.com is blowing out 1/4" stainless 3 way valves in the clearance section for 4.95 each!

[Rum Bum]

OD would you mind showing us how you make your sight glasses?

RB

[olddog]

It's already posted, just read ALL the 75 pages of Flute Talk thread and you will find it.
Try here http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 7#p6833967
I don't use this method now, as I have bought a lathe and I can turn my own, but it's a start if you don't have specialised tools.




OD

[Rum Bum]

I'd rather not start reading that novel again. I just bookmarked the link though, $85 a piece is just out of my reach.

RB

[olddog]

Here are the latest progress shots, the plate drain system has now been fitted, all silver solder, no compression joints, and the shotgun product condenser now fitted to the column.

I have just got the plumbing to fit, build the parrot, and fit the glass and seals in the sight glasses, then it will be ready for a clean and a test drive


OD

[Uisge_a_Ghlinne]

A work of art. I have decided to take the flute plunge, however I will be building out of stainless as it is considerably cheaper than copper. The plates and 'vitals' will of course be copper. One question though; can someone please patch me a link to a drawing for the plumbing for a flute. I am sure I have seen one somewhere but I just cant find the damn thing again.