the penny whistle experiment

[Mr.Spooky]

yes sir! looking great. i might have to find one piece to engine turn on mine. i am gonna go with a dark forced patina on it, so one shiny turned piece would be a nice contrast. prolly the phlegm killer.

good stuff spook.

thanks! thought i might add a little pimpification to the process. if i thought i could, id lay a light dusting of chunky copper coulored metalflake to the column or maby some goldleaf. LOL
spooky

[LWTCS]

Pimpafication

[Samohon]

Man my vocabulary just keeps getting better L...

That engine turn sure is pretty, maybe a mod for the flute... when i get it finished that is...

[Prairiepiss]

Pimpafication with some Bling Bling!!!!

[HookLine]

And very nice Pimpafied Bling-Bling copper it is.

[condensificator]

now you's guys speakin my language!!! pimperrification at it's best.

[Kentucky shinner]

Damn fine job spooky.. You are the best yet at the engine turning look.. That is friggin awesome..

[Ono Nadagin]

how did you guys engine turn/jewel your stuff I have only done it on large flat surfaces and gun parts.. other than a round rifle bolt.

I use a drill press and a cratex rubberized coarse abrasive stick for for both but the round rifle bolts I made a jig to hold it.. did you free hand it after griding off the piece? I use to use valve grinding paste but I find the Cratesx sticks much easier to use as you can just chuck them up in a 1/2" drill press and go to town on the item

[olddog]

This is Spookies method I used on the product condenser for Flute 2. You get a round wire brush bit that you use with a drill, with some cable ties you pull all of the wire together to form a tight end to it, put it into your drill press, and the tubing into a drill press vice. Then proceed to form circles along the length of the tube with the rotary wire brush until you have completed the surface of the tube. This is best done before any other assembly has been done, as attached bits will get in the way.
Kudos to Spooky for the idea.


OD

[Ono Nadagin]

I have never done such large diameter jewels/turns ) I have done a lot of engine turning/jeweling on automotive parts using 1/2" circles and 1/4-3/8ths" on firearms. Google Cratex abrasives they make rubberized abbrasives that give a much better result than a cinched wire wheel, I used that method for a couple of years before a man that does jeweling for a living turned me onto Cratex. They are not too pricey and imho do a much better job... best I ever got out of a cinched down wire brush I used my mini lathe to flatten/square off the bristle lengths to the same length before that I always had some wires gouging deeper than the others but even after trying to square it on the lathe I still had the same problem to a lessor extent.

I will search through Spookies posts to see if I can find his method... I was just really wondering if you guys freehanded it with a drill or used a drill press or milling machine and also if you laid out a grid and used a jig to hold the pipe/tube.. If you guys free handed it I am very impressed doing curved surfaces is tough to keep uniform in my experience. Kudos

EDIT ok now I noticed you said you used a vice ) either way good job

another question have you done this on 2" pipe if so was it more difficult to get your brush to work the convex of the outside of the tubing with out over grinding the center portion of the spot your turning?

Also what was diameter of your brush once it was cinched down with a zip tie or what ever you used... K shiners look very large in the pics

[Mr.Spooky]

I have never done such large diameter jewels/turns ) I have done a lot of engine turning/jeweling on automotive parts using 1/2" circles and 1/4-3/8ths" on firearms. Google Cratex abrasives they make rubberized abbrasives that give a much better result than a cinched wire wheel, I used that method for a couple of years before a man that does jeweling for a living turned me onto Cratex. They are not too pricey and imho do a much better job... best I ever got out of a cinched down wire brush I used my mini lathe to flatten/square off the bristle lengths to the same length before that I always had some wires gouging deeper than the others but even after trying to square it on the lathe I still had the same problem to a lessor extent.

I will search through Spookies posts to see if I can find his method... I was just really wondering if you guys freehanded it with a drill or used a drill press or milling machine and also if you laid out a grid and used a jig to hold the pipe/tube.. If you guys free handed it I am very impressed doing curved surfaces is tough to keep uniform in my experience. Kudos

EDIT ok now I noticed you said you used a vice ) either way good job

another question have you done this on 2" pipe if so was it more difficult to get your brush to work the convex of the outside of the tubing with out over grinding the center portion of the spot your turning?

Also what was diameter of your brush once it was cinched down with a zip tie or what ever you used... K shiners look very large in the pics

before i did mine, i looked on the web for any info that i could on the turning because i had never did it before... there wasent a whole lot out there... the most that i could find the wire brush thing,, and the cratex sticks that you were talking about..
there were a few reasons that i used the wire bursh.. one, was that it was like 2 bucks at lowes,, and two, i dident think that you could get the cratex sticks in a large enough diameter. and three,,,,, it was like 2 bucks at lowes . i just squeezed all the bristles together using nilon straps,, and went to work..
after understanding the patern that was needed to get the look,,, i just drew one streight line to start off with,, and off i went. this is by far nothing professional, and it was only the second time i did it,,,,, but thats the quality that you get with a wire brush.
ill take a pic of the brush today and show you how i set it up!!!!
thanks
spooky

[Kentucky shinner]

parts are on the way my freind

[Mr.Spooky]

parts are on the way my freind

thanks man!!!!!!! ill be lookin for em
spooky

[Mr.Spooky]

ok,, i know that i said id di this 2 days ago,, but i got kinda busy...... heres the pic of the wire brush that i use.

[Mr.Spooky]

yesterday, i got a bunch of parts in from Ky( thanks KY, everything was perfect!!!!! ) dang what a bunch of pieces .. heres how shees gonna be in pot mode...
spooky

[Samohon]

Again, looking good Spooky...
Is that zip ties or tape you have round your wire brush..?

[Mr.Spooky]

Again, looking good Spooky...
Is that zip ties or tape you have round your wire brush..?

thanks Sam.... those are zip ties.
spooky

[Prairiepiss]

+1 on the looking good.
Nice work spooky.

[Mr.Spooky]

i got the shotgun product condensor finished today,,i used soft solder on the whole thing, it was kinda pain in the arse, but in the end it passed the leak tests!!!!! so the column, deflag, and shotgun are finished and the next thing i gotta do is the plumbing on both condensors.... .shit just relised that i aint got a thermo in yet ,,, add that to the list...
here she is so far....
spooky

[Prairiepiss]

Nice very nice.

[Samohon]

Hey Spooky, thats a nice piece of kit man... Well done...

[Prairiepiss]

Hey Samohon I bet he's like a little kid at Christmas. Just can't wait to get that beauty a whistling. Hell I can't wait to how she does!

[Mr.Spooky]

thank ya fellas,,, thank ya!
like i said, i gotta finish the plumbing, a thermo, glass, and some work on my keg,,, but im getting closer!!
spooky

[Samohon]

I'm still waiting on some parts and the glass to be delivered...

Hey J, are you gonna put the engineers twist on the copper...

Looks great man...

[Samohon]

Hey Samohon I bet he's like a little kid at Christmas. Just can't wait to get that beauty a whistling. Hell I can't wait to how she does!

Hell PP, I feel like a little kid that thinks santas using the wrong sat nav...
Wheres my boys toys posty... I gotta get this thing finished...

[Prairiepiss]

I like how your 90s turned out on top. Did you cut the solder cups down? They look like only about a 1/2" wide? And did you put a piece between them? The top looks like the same size from 90 to 90? Or is it just the pic. I've been trying to figure out how to do mine to make it different. You have given me some ideas. That I mite have to steal. If you don't mind. I like being different. I wish I had a computer so I could get a better look see.

[Prairiepiss]

Hey Samohon I bet he's like a little kid at Christmas. Just can't wait to get that beauty a whistling. Hell I can't wait to how she does!

Hell PP, I feel like a little kid that thinks santas using the wrong sat nav...
Wheres my boys toys posty... I gotta get this thing finished...

I think Santa is just leaving me a lump of Cole in my stocking every other nite.

[Mr.Spooky]

I'm still waiting on some parts and the glass to be delivered...

Hey J, are you gonna put the engineers twist on the copper...

Looks great man...

only on the condensors.... BTW,,, that green kilt looks fine

[Mr.Spooky]

I like how your 90s turned out on top. Did you cut the solder cups down? They look like only about a 1/2" wide? And did you put a piece between them? The top looks like the same size from 90 to 90? Or is it just the pic. I've been trying to figure out how to do mine to make it different. You have given me some ideas. That I mite have to steal. If you don't mind. I like being different. I wish I had a computer so I could get a better look see.

the solder cups on the 90's are 1/2" and the space between the two is 1 and 1/4". the 90's are DWV and i think that the "cups" are alot shorter.. this doesent effect or comprmise the integraty of it at all... this thing is as solid as a brick shit house
spooky

[Kentucky shinner]

you gotta love a really nice brick shit house.. your crazy spooky... your right they work great ..
LOL..
KS