No really, thats the name of it. Better-bottle.com
Are these acceptable for fermenting and racking? They're made for wine making, I picked up a 6 gallon bottle today from my local brew shop. Originally intended on getting a glass carboy but for almost half the price I figured i'd go ahead and get it.
Anybody used one?
A better bottle?
Moderator: Site Moderator
-
Dnderhead
- Angel's Share
- Posts: 13666
- Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:07 pm
- Location: up north
Re: A better bottle?
Ok for wash/mash.only thing iv seen they will have a melt down if anything hot is put in them.
-
Bull Rider
- Trainee
- Posts: 809
- Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2009 7:47 pm
- Location: Pacific Northwest, USA
Re: A better bottle?
I have two or three of the six gallon Better Bottles, they work great. Just don't get them too close to the banjo burner!
Safer than glass, lighter too.
Bull.
Safer than glass, lighter too.
Bull.
Life is hard, it's harder when you're stupid...
-
likkerluvver
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 398
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:28 am
Re: A better bottle?
They are lighter and cheaper 
BUT washes take much longer to clear in them than in glass. I did a side-by side test - same wash in both.
BUT washes take much longer to clear in them than in glass. I did a side-by side test - same wash in both.
LL
Having fun stillin' seriously..... This antique engine runs best on high octane.
-
Slowninja
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:20 pm
Re: A better bottle?
Reeeally? Thats interesting as i'm just going to be using it to clear neutrals.
How much longer are we talking?
How much longer are we talking?
-
Usge
- retired
- Posts: 3243
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:22 am
Re: A better bottle?
I can't think of any reason that a wash/mash would take longer in one of these than glass (given the same conditions/temp, etc). Only thing I can think of is maybe it doesn't hold heat as well...and if your wash gets cool..it will slow?
Pros: they are lighter (cheaper shipping costs ..often free..if you have to do it that way), easier to clean cause you can easily pick them up and swoosh them around (you put a bit of solution in them, and a washrag. Swirl. The rag will clean any left over krausen off the sides). IT's a lot easier to do this..with plastic bottle than a glass one. And finally...they don't break (they are pretty damn tuff)
Cons: One is already mentioned...heat. You can use hot water...just nothing over 140F if I remember correctly. If you ever put your finger in 140F degree water...it's more than warm. But, I wouldn't go pouring boiling water in it. Then again, I doubt many people pour very hot water in their glass carboys either for fear they'll break. Beyond that, the small opening at the top sort of precludes either one as a mash cooker dont' you think? I use buckets or more open containers for that kind of work (ie., on the grain). Next...this is important...because its plastic..it "gives" when you squeeze it or pick it up causing air to compress or expand. You have to use a special kind of airlock if you plan to pick it up or move it. The reason is...if you use a normal kind of airlock and pick it up or squeeze the sides...it will suck the contents of the airlock down into the bottle. The one they sell specifically for this bottle is a dry-lock. It has a ballbearing/spring and works with their ported enclosure as an attachment to let air out...but locks air out trying to come in. It works fantastic...but it's very expensive for what it is (it's 2 parts...the ported enclosure and the dry-lock about 15 bucks each...so 30 dollars or more for an airlock). Supposedly, morebeer.com sells an inexpensive alternative that is basically a silicon plug with a open/close sliding port in the middle for a few bucks. I haven't used one..but they claim it works the same (ie., lets air out but not in). I started out using standard gum/bung with 3-piece airlock. It really sucked using it with this bottle. I bought the Better Bottle dry-lock and never looked back. As irritating as the price is...it works. It also dissasembles for cleaning and is rebuildable with a 6 dollar gasket/spring kit. I've never had to rebuild one. Better bottle also sells other expensive/exclusive accessories..including an adjustable siphon/port at the bottom with a direction indicator, etc. I really dont' like having holes in my fermenters other than the top....they always tend to leak despite claims otherwise. Iv'e not used one.
So, there you have it. I use them and prefer them over glass. I also bought a strap carrier for mine...makes picking them up easy. All the standard sized (5 or 6 gal, etc) parts will fit these.... just have to be careful with 2 things 1) the airlock and moving/squeezing the bottle and 2) heat. On that note....all the standard fermenter jackets, parkas, etc..will work. But, you have to be careful with the heaters. There are some fermenter belt heaters designed not to exceeed the temp requirements of these bottles. Just make sure the one you buy is compatible.
Pros: they are lighter (cheaper shipping costs ..often free..if you have to do it that way), easier to clean cause you can easily pick them up and swoosh them around (you put a bit of solution in them, and a washrag. Swirl. The rag will clean any left over krausen off the sides). IT's a lot easier to do this..with plastic bottle than a glass one. And finally...they don't break (they are pretty damn tuff)
Cons: One is already mentioned...heat. You can use hot water...just nothing over 140F if I remember correctly. If you ever put your finger in 140F degree water...it's more than warm. But, I wouldn't go pouring boiling water in it. Then again, I doubt many people pour very hot water in their glass carboys either for fear they'll break. Beyond that, the small opening at the top sort of precludes either one as a mash cooker dont' you think? I use buckets or more open containers for that kind of work (ie., on the grain). Next...this is important...because its plastic..it "gives" when you squeeze it or pick it up causing air to compress or expand. You have to use a special kind of airlock if you plan to pick it up or move it. The reason is...if you use a normal kind of airlock and pick it up or squeeze the sides...it will suck the contents of the airlock down into the bottle. The one they sell specifically for this bottle is a dry-lock. It has a ballbearing/spring and works with their ported enclosure as an attachment to let air out...but locks air out trying to come in. It works fantastic...but it's very expensive for what it is (it's 2 parts...the ported enclosure and the dry-lock about 15 bucks each...so 30 dollars or more for an airlock). Supposedly, morebeer.com sells an inexpensive alternative that is basically a silicon plug with a open/close sliding port in the middle for a few bucks. I haven't used one..but they claim it works the same (ie., lets air out but not in). I started out using standard gum/bung with 3-piece airlock. It really sucked using it with this bottle. I bought the Better Bottle dry-lock and never looked back. As irritating as the price is...it works. It also dissasembles for cleaning and is rebuildable with a 6 dollar gasket/spring kit. I've never had to rebuild one. Better bottle also sells other expensive/exclusive accessories..including an adjustable siphon/port at the bottom with a direction indicator, etc. I really dont' like having holes in my fermenters other than the top....they always tend to leak despite claims otherwise. Iv'e not used one.
So, there you have it. I use them and prefer them over glass. I also bought a strap carrier for mine...makes picking them up easy. All the standard sized (5 or 6 gal, etc) parts will fit these.... just have to be careful with 2 things 1) the airlock and moving/squeezing the bottle and 2) heat. On that note....all the standard fermenter jackets, parkas, etc..will work. But, you have to be careful with the heaters. There are some fermenter belt heaters designed not to exceeed the temp requirements of these bottles. Just make sure the one you buy is compatible.