Any electricians in the group?

[fullhouse]

I have a few Questions about wire size and such for wiring my LAB lol...my meter base is about 120 feet from the lab.it is a 200 amp base.i want to put a electric stove unit,5500 watt element for my boiler,AC unit (prolly a 110 window unit lab is 10x16),outlets and lighting,and a small hotwater tank (just a 10 gal or so just to for sink use). i feel good that i can do the wiring ok just need to know the size wire i would need to get this done and also the size box to put next to my meter base and in the lab i will proly go with a small breaker box in lab to save trips to the main box next to the meter ....thanks for any help with this

[MuleKicker]

I would run 200A service cable then. 2/0 copper, or 4/0 aluminum. consult local electrical code.

[moonshine guy]

So I think that you want to run 220 vac to your lab. What size btu will the ac be? And will the hot water heater be 110 vac with 1500 watt heater?

[fullhouse]

thanks for fast replys..the ac will be 10,000 btu and water heater will be 1500 watt yes...i may see if i can find a inline water heater as it will not be used much and wont need to hold hot water heating it all the time

[fullhouse]

ouch that 2/0 stranded copper is 3.06 a foot and id need 3 of them right?

[Nimrod]

2/0 might not be big enough! You have to consider voltage drop at that distance. 120ft is right at the teeter point.

You will definitely need 2 you can downsize the neutral to 1/0 and then I would do atleast #4 ground.

[fullhouse]

ouch u fellas sure dont encourage the wallet any lol....ok so if i drop the stove was just thinking since i have it yanno..guess i could use a hot plate if i needed to do some stove type stuff...and water could be heated in my boiler inconvenient but ...what if didnt go all out on a 5500 watt boiler....ac is a must tho as with lighting and such lol...i was told i could use 6/2G to run the lab but wanted more input on it b4 i did it

[Nimrod]

6/2 would carry about 60 amps, but not 120 feet. It would also either give you just 2 hots or one hot one neutral....

[fullhouse]

so 6/2 would keep me at 110 not the 220 that i would like to have right?if thats right would the it carry enough for the lights and ac and smaller watt boiler element?i may need to just stick with my gas burner setup i may just need to get a larger tank for my gas! the small ones are just such a hassle

[Nimrod]

Yep, you are right. just 120. 6/2 has a ground in it, but it's not worthy or smart to use it as a neutral. I would go #2-120ft (x2), #4-120ft , and a #6 bare copper for conduit ground. Put 100 amp indoor panel in the lab. Wire as needed via standard romex. As per NEC .

[Nimrod]

Gives 23 amp for the 5500 boiler. 20 amp for the AC, 20 amp for HW tank. If you do florescent lighting go with the T8 Electronic they are miliamps. 2 20 amp circuits for plugs ought to be ample for that size. But I sure like all my dedicated runs I made in this house

*Edit, just seen you put 1500w HW tank. Thats is 12.5 amps. It would be good to keep that dedicated, but you could cheat a few plugs on that circuit, just be aware not to run anything power hoggy on it.

[Tater]

When I wired my shed I added a ground rod to breaker box ground same as for house breaker box I was pulling power from for additional safety.

[Nimrod]

NEC requires a ground in any conduit. I send a ground in the conduit, drive 2 ground rods 8ft apart at the shed. Bond box, and 2 rods all the way to source. I usually try to hit cold water pipe, but shed most likely wont have it. Tater is right, an additional rod at the meter base would be a good idea. Also if you put a panel at the meter you will have to keep all grounds and neutrals segregated.

[fullhouse]

thanks Nim ! u have shed a lot of light on this rednecks project...to keep the costs down for now i think i will stick to the 110 with the 6/2 and maybe later have a service pole installed at the shop lots less #2 wire that way and i can buy parts to build the pole along the way instead of at once...but the 6/2 will run the AC and lights and 110 water heater right? thanks again for helping me sort this out

[Nimrod]

Ehh, no not really. If you did 6/2 you would have them on same phase. If you do this and I'm urging you NOT to run romex that far. Get 6/3 and get the 240 and a N and a Ground. Running that far, what happens is when voltage drops amperage goes UP, you can exceed 60 very quick and have a fire. Before I would risk a fire, call your power company and see what the cost would be to set another pole and meter. They might do it free (unless your Coop). OG+E where i'm at love adding meters... more revenue .

[fullhouse]

calling the power company 2morrow lol..dont need no fires here...your advise is well taken...the other option i have is that i bought this shed repoed from a local building sales ....good friend of mine does the delivery i may see about having him come out and move the shed alot closer to the house meter base...im sure i can persuade him since he likes my hobbys so much lol

[MuleKicker]

why dont ya run aluminum service cable? Alot cheaper.

[junkyard dawg]

I don't know if the codes allow aluminum anymore? It wasn't allowed when I had to replace a 310' run here a few years ago.

I'd hate to have to pay for all that copper today...

[Nimrod]

I frown upon aluminum in that trade like all will with this hobby. However aluminum is acceptable in runs like this as long as the aluminum feed doesn't enter any premises. The big problem with aluminum is amp loads and what nots will heat the wire then when no load it cools. The problem is when it does that numerous times it becomes loose under lugs then loose connections get more heat, BIG problems. I have seen long aluminum runs burn in half in the middle....... With occasional maintenance aluminum is good. I just prefer copper .

[fullhouse]

hummm may have to look into that alum thing..the service to my main weatherhead looks like alum where they crimped it on...as for code goes i live way out in the sticks and a lil rule breaking never stoped me b4 BUT i sure dont want any fires lol long ways to the local fire dept also...ill check if lowes has the service wire tho may be a option worth checking into...although moving the shed closer is sounding most cost effective

[ozone39]

aluminum oxidizes....have to dip it in an anti oxidation paste before cranking down those lug bolts...