recommended drll bit

[lampshade]

What's the best bit for drilling a 1/2" hole into 1-1/2" copper pipe. I used a regular bit and it just mangled the hole, I suspect because the pipe wall is thin. Would a step bit be better? Or maybe I'm doing something else wrong.

Thanks.

[edge]

The drill is too sharp.
You can stone the front of the flute and it should not grab.

edge.

[Prairiepiss]

I use step bits for all my holes up to an inch or so. And hole saws for anything larger. They work much better IMO.

[myles]

If you have a pillar drill it helps. You can ease into the cut slowly and just cut a thin layer at a time. And dont forget you can use flow drilling too if you wish to make a socket for the tube to go into,

[LWTCS]

Me too PP.
I also use a Forsner for drilling out the stops in the fittings

[Prairiepiss]

Me too PP.
I also use a Forsner for drilling out the stops in the fittings

That's a good idea. Gota have a drill press though. It's on the list.

I took and ground the sides of the teeth on a few hole saws. So they would fit inside pipe. Like 2" I have one ground down so I can solder a piece on. Then drill it out. Works good. Also found sometimes its easier to run the hole saws in reverse. The copper is soft enough it still cuts.

[lampshade]

If you have a pillar drill it helps. You can ease into the cut slowly and just cut a thin layer at a time. And dont forget you can use flow drilling too if you wish to make a socket for the tube to go into,

Those terms are new too me. What's a pillar drill and flow drilling?

[edge]

I use step bits for all my holes up to an inch or so. And hole saws for anything larger. They work much better IMO.

I am a machinist by trade and stoning a drill bit will solve the problem.
Copper and brass require negative attack angles.
This is VERY well known in the trade!

edge.

[LWTCS]

This is VERY well known in the trade!

Yeah PP,,,don't chew know that?

[Prairiepiss]

I use step bits for all my holes up to an inch or so. And hole saws for anything larger. They work much better IMO.

I am a machinist by trade and stoning a drill bit will solve the problem.
Copper and brass require negative attack angles.
This is VERY well known in the trade!

edge.

I don't have a problem with the way I do it. I think the step bits work great. And actually I used mine to drill my 1 1/8" holes in my plates for my bubble caps no problems. Easy peasy.

I did Larry. I was just testing everyone else?

[cob]

Those terms are new too me. What's a pillar drill and flow drilling?

pillar drill, post drill, column drill, radial drill, are other terms for drill press.

flow drilling is friction drilling moving metal and reforming metal instead of removing metal.

i looked for and could not find the build post for a condenser in which the op made a simple swedge tool to provide more support for small tube connections to large tube. that joint is stronger than a soldered butt joint.

a copy of machinery's handbook will be distributed immediately to all members. edit: on edge.

[Prairiepiss]

Was that my post cob?
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =2&t=21258

[lampshade]

There's also a related youtube vidiot that Stillbrewin posted. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpMFQFi6Hh4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[cob]

Was that my post cob?
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =2&t=21258

it was, thanks for the link to yet another good method.

[lampshade]

I started this post by lamenting that I got mangled holes while drilling in copper pipe. I was using a hand drill. I have since purchased a $120 drill press from Home Depot and it produces lovely, symmetrical holes, provided I carefully secure the copper pipe with a clamp and use progressively larger bits.