Keg pot still - immersion heater element questions

[jbyrd]

Hello all,

I have introduced myself in the Welcome forum recently, but have been lurking for quite a while. I am a welder by trade, I also am a welding intructor and welding inspector. I love fabrication.

I have two questions, but first the particulars: I am converting a pony keg (30 liters) into a pot still and am going to utilize an immersion heating element (currently have a 240 volt 5500 watt).

Questions:

1. I was planning on utilizing the 240 volt element at full voltage to bring the contents up to temperature quickly and then via a switch drop a leg of the electrical circuit to reduce the elements voltage to 120 (240 volts utilize two 120 volt sources) there by reducing its heating capability by aprox 70 percent? Is my thinking correct and viable?

2. I welded my heating element port into the side of the tank as low as I could but due to the concavity on the bottom of the tank it will take 5.5 liters of fluid to cover the heating element. Since my pony keg has a total capacity of 30 liters, if I run my still with 15 liters of fluid will this by sufficiently low enough in the keg for proper operation?

Thanks to all for your help. If this has been covered please feel free to point me in the right direction. Thank you!

[Prairiepiss]

A 5500w 220v element on 110v will be around 1375w. I have two in mine. But with a pot still you will need some kind of control over it. It needs to be adjustable. And a steady heat input. If you have 220v available I would suggest a phase angle controller.

How much you van run will depend on the ABV of the charge? You will need to have enough left in the boiler to keep tje element covered the whole run. So always figure enough to do that.

[jbyrd]

So my thoughts of getting a boiling with the 5500w and then knocking a leg out to bring it down to the 1375w for the remainder of the run is misguided? I am trying to keep the costs down initially so I was hoping to not use the phase controller. Your thoughts?

[Prairiepiss]

To run a pot still proper. You need fine control over your heat input. 1375w is to much for my pot still. I have to turn it down you get proper take off speeds. 1375w would ne pushing it harder then you would likely want. Causing smearing and low ABV.

You can check out my setup in the must read new distiller reading lounge.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=30266

[jbyrd]

Ct and hOk after more reading on the subject I returned my 5500w and got a 4500w so I could better utilize the PSR-25 controller. I am continuing to read on the subject. One thing that is difficult is that most people who post don't put where they are from (understandable) but it makes it difficult when trying to decipher their schmatics and incoming power sources (single hot 240 or split single phase 240). Will continue to research.

Another question: my heating element uses a rubber gasket to seal the port. Shouldn't this be replaced?

[Richard7]

On the gasket for the heating element, just go with ptfe AKA Polytetrafluoroethylene (I love that word) It is just teflon tape wrapped around your gasket that you have. Look for Samohon's everlasting PTFE gasket. That should take care of any worries you have about your gasket on your heating element. Take care and happy stilling to ya!