Mr P's HERMS (Heat Exchanger Recirculating Mash System) buil

[Prairiepiss]

Some of you have seen me talk about it. Some have asked questions about it. So here goes.

I'm building a HERMS (Heat Exchanger Recirculating Mash System) Brewing system. For both homebrew beer and AG mashes for distilling. It will consist of three kegs with the tops cut out. All will have 3/4" drains through the bottom. I have added 3/8" t's as low as I can get them in the sides for level gauges and future temp probes. They all have a 3/8" coupler welded in as close to the top as I can get them. These will be fill ports and sparge arm connections for the MLT. I welded in a 3/4" half coupler in each of them up front for dial thermometers. Little over kill for the size of fitting. But it is what I had. There will be valves and male QD fittings on all ports used for liquid transfer.

First tank is the HLT (Hot Liquor Tank) It will have a 40 foot coil of 1/2" SS tubing for the heat exchanger in it. Will be fired with a 5500w element. Temps will be controlled by a PID. I've welded a 1" coupler in pretty low for the element mount.

Second tank is the MLT (Mash Lauter Tun) It has a false bottom. I found it cheaper and easier to buy a premade one. It's 11" in diameter and is raised up in the middle. And flared around the outside to fit the contour of the keg. It's normally installed with a drain tube coming from the side of the keg down through the top of it. I went a different route because of my bottom drains. I made a standoff to fit over the drain that I can secure the false bottom to.

Third tank is the BT (Boil Tank) it too has a false bottom just like the MLT. And also has a 5500w element in it like the HLT.

I know I'm forgetting something. But it will come up as I go through the build.

Some of you mite remember I had made a MLT out of a ice cube cooler. I decided to go ahead and make one out of a keg. And I think I will gift that one to a brewing buddy.

I had already built my stand a while back. It's made out of pallets I got from work. And I made it so the hight of the kegs would be where I could stand flat footed and reach the bottom of the keg. Without bending over. And a shelf under it for mounting the march pumps on and the counterflow wort chiller.

My plans were made following the plans found on this website. http://theelectricbrewery.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow All I have done is change things a bit to utilize materials available to me. And better ideas I think will work? Like the bottom drains. I have always hated cleaning out my still boiler with the side drain. What a pita.

Warning my welds are ugly. But are stainless just done with a MIG. Again because that's what's available to me. And I don't do it enough.

Here are some pics of the brew stand when I built it. You will see the two kegs and the cooler MLT in these pics.

[Prairiepiss]

Here are some pics of the MLT progress.

This first one is the 3/4_ bottom drain. I used a T in the MLT and HLT. This was so I could mount my temp probe in it for outlet temps. And to keep the probe out of the way.

This is the 3/8" fill port. On the MLT a sparge arm will be connected to it on the inside. And a valve with male QD on the outside. For connection to the heat exchanger coil in the HLT. VIA hoses.

This is the 3/8" T that a level sight gauge will be connected to. And an extra port for another temp probe latter on. If I so choose? Or what ever else mite pop up? I'm really undecided if I will put a sight gauge on the MLT. But I had the fitting and the welder. So I installed it. It will probably be plugged off for now. I only have two sight tubes and they will go on the HLT and BT.

[Prairiepiss]

Sory I ment to post these before the last ones.

I cut the tops out of the kegs with a plasma cutter. I marked a 12" circle on it. When I went to cut it out. I found out if I rested the cutter head on the top ring. And rested my hand on the sankey valve. It was damn near perfect. And made for a nice and easy cut.

[NcHooch]

Nice Mr P ...
how is the heat of the wort controlled as it circulates through the heats exchanger? ....do you just control the HLT? ...and assume the wort will exit the coil at 150 for instance?

[Prairiepiss]

Ok back to the MLT.
Here is the false bottom setup. And the mount saddle I made. I made it out of a funky triclamp I had came up with. Removed the hinged connector between the two halves. Ground the ends off. Drilled a hole and welded a SS bolt in place.

Here is the false bottom attached to the saddle before I welded it in.

[Prairiepiss]

Nice Mr P ...
how is the heat of the wort controlled as it circulates through the heats exchanger? ....do you just control the HLT? ...and assume the wort will exit the coil at 150 for instance?

The HLT temp will be set to mash temp on the PID. So the wort will be coming out the drain on the MLT to a march pump. From the pump to the coil in the HLT. From the coil back to the sparge arm in the MLT. From what im reading on the Electric brewery site. It will maintain the MLT to within one deg.

If I want to do a step mash. All I will have to do is set the PID on the HLT to the first mark. Wait the amount of time for the first rest. Change the PID to the next temp. Let it rise and rest. And do it again for how ever many rests I need. Later on I plan to upgrading or add on a ramp soak PID. So I van program the rests in. And let it do it automatically.

[Prairiepiss]

Here is the MLT false bottom saddle welded in. And the false bottom in place.

[Prairiepiss]

I got one more pic here for now. This is of the BT with the false bottom in place and the element in place. I forgot I took it. It's not a great pic. But you will get the idea. I will get some better ones of it tomorrow.

[King Of Hearts]

Interesting, where are you getting the PID from?

[joseph9936]

all I can say is WOW and nice. The work you put in and the time it took. Im impressed! Great job!!

[Prairiepiss]

Interesting, where are you getting the PID from?

I have a Honeywell I will be using to start with. I picked it up used. But plan to buy new ones from auberins. For the big brew controller build. When funding is available.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... ducts_id=3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I have 6 SSRs ordered and on the way. My brew controller when finished will have 3 or 4 in it. And two for my still controller. Plus a spare?

I'm going to build a basic controller for now with one PID controlling a SSR for the HLT and a phase angle for the BT. It will double as my still controller for now. And end up being my still controller when all said and done.

The final brew controller will have 4 or 5 PIDs. And will have both HERMS and RIMS capabilities. Similar to the one The Electric Brewery site has. Bit like I said funding for that will need to be worked into the ever shrinking budget.

[King Of Hearts]

I do mostly straight infusion mashes so I really don't need anything fancy like that, + I use gas so I would need vales, igniters, etc, etc.

[Prairiepiss]

I forgot to add. For corn based whiskey mashes and some others. I am making a steam head for my still boiler. So I can use it to cook the corn with steam injection. Seeing how it would never work with this HERMS system. Those added steam head parts will be built to double as modular still parts.

And for future testing a playing. I will be building a lid or two that will fit on any of the brew kettles. That will turn them into still boilers and or thumpers. Why not utilize all the parts in as many ways as I can? Like the HLT with the coil in it. Possible steam heated still boiler? Or steam plumbed to the drain on either the MLT or BT with the false bottom on it for a steam injected still boiler? Would be nice for stillin on the grain or fruit. Whole world of possibilities that I will try to make as easy as I can to later take advantage of.

King I wanted to do everything indoors. And I have grown quite fond of electric. The precision and repeatability you can get from it is much better then gas. And I always run out of gas at the most inopertune moments. Middle of cooking a turkey. Middle of cooking some good steaks. Middle of the night camping for the heater.

[King Of Hearts]

Cool. I use natural gas, but with my setup could easily go steam injection. But Im not burning because my flame is spread out, and I always make sure the was is clear.

[Beer Gnome]

Looking Good Mr. P! An additional purpose your new brewery can serve is for sous vide style cooking. It is awesome.

I build homebrewery controls for side money, so if you need any advice, plans, or anything else, just let me know. Kal's plans are very good and very industrial.

[HolyBear]

I'm too simple to understand much, but since you want multiple uses for parts, maybe an idea to add would be to somehow use the steam for cleaning? Thinking a flex line with a nozzle attachment? Hot steam makes a good cleaner, even just a port, valve and flex line could come in handy... just a thought...

[Prairiepiss]

I've thought about it. But not going to use the steam every time. And it would be my still boiler too. So I mite be using it for that.

[new guy]

Hey Mr. P Could this herms system be used to keep a mesh at a constant fermentation temp, for us in the cold garages?

[King Of Hearts]

Hey Mr. P Could this herms system be used to keep a mesh at a constant fermentation temp, for us in the cold garages?

Imo, you would be better off to build an insulated box and get a thermostat with a high wattage outdoor light.

[Prairiepiss]

Does my thermometer make my mash tun look small.

[King Of Hearts]

Does my thermometer make my mash tun look small.

IMAG1768-picsay.jpg

I like the feet and the bottom valve.

[Prairiepiss]

Thanks KOH.

Got the last welding done. And all the inside grinding done tonight. I need some more fittings. But it looks more like a brew rig now. Thermometers for the BT and HLT will have to wait till funding comes up. They aren't going to be necessary with the PIDs anyway. I need to go buy carriage bolts for the feet. Was waiting to find out what length would work best.

[heartcut]

Looking good.

[Prairiepiss]

I've been fighting leaks on all my welds. To the point I want to smash this crap with a sledge hammer.

But I hadn't shown the pics of my new way of mounting the elements. I used a stainless 1" NPT union. Welded the threaded half to the keg. And installed the other half on the element. I wanted an easier way to change them out if I wanted too. But couldn't afford triclamp ferrules. And had these already.

[Prairiepiss]

Here is the element from the inside. This is the BT.

[Misflt]

Awesome thread. You should be working in a distillery or brewery. Naaa, that would take the fun out of something you love, trust me, I worked for Stroh's Brewing Co. for 6 years in the brewing dept. still don't know much more than the basics of brewing, but I can pump the hell outta some molasses and corn syrup from railcar tankers and vacuum transfer grains from railcars to silo's!

You should apply at the local MENSA chapter. From what I can tell, you would make it easy into the ranks!

[W Pappy]

Looks darn good Mr P I can see I need to look for more kegs!

[woodshed]

That is one damn nice build.

[Prairiepiss]

Thanks guys. It would be nice to one day finish the controller and get the pumps to finish it off. So I could use it as it was intended to be.

[CatCrap]

Wonder what this looks like no? is PP still around?