Need help connecting copper to pot lid

[MeatballStunts]

I am in the planning stages of building my first pot still. I have a 5 gallon stainless pot I am using and I am having a hard time figuring out how to connect the copper tubing to the pot lid.

Can I use a brass threaded flange like this?...http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Fitting-Thr ... B004ZLCM1A" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Then get a threaded copper fitting and the rest would be copper from there? Is this safe to use in a still design? Or if its not safe can anyone popint me to some threads with some of this info I am looking for. I think using the flange and a cork gasket would be easier than me trying to solder some copper to the stainless lid since this will be my first time learning to solder on this copper.

Thanks in advance.

[Bushman]

Brass has been used in the past but it needs to be pickled. How do you propose fastening it to the stainless lid? Have you looked online for stainless connectors as it is a specialty item most local stores wouldn't carry it.

[ErnieV]

You could build your own easy flange like this
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=27056

Or you could look further down this thread. Brian has made a great flange
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26274

Then you will need to make a PTFE washer, see here for details. Hope that helps.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=24199

[Richard7]

I would go stainless like this http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Fitting ... s_indust_3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow from the same site. cost a little more but no worries about lead. The one I posted is 2" and the one you posted was 3/4". You may find it cheaper in the lower sizes.

[MeatballStunts]

The reason I was going to use the brass flange if possible is that I am building a small 5 gallon pot still so I was going to have just 3/4" copper come out of the top of the pot so if i used a threaded flange connector then this could just bolt to the pot lid with a gasket and then a copper threaded fitting could screw into the flange.

After looking at some of the links above I think I am going to try to make my own flange and have a few small holes in it where i can put some stanless screws into it a secure it to my pot lid with a gasket. This will be a learning experience for me so I will let you know how it goes. I think I will be able to make it work as long as i can find the right materials needed at the local hardware store.

[mash rookie]

Use a stainless steel sink basket strainer with a Samohon gasket. Cheap, easy to find and install. Large stable connection. Its easy to adapt from the 1-1/2" to any size you need.

[wombatvvv]

I'm a novice myself, but I read on the main site about someone using a pipe compression connector with a nut on either side of the lid. Sounded like a good idea to me.



"The lyne arm is attached to the lid of the pressure cooker by two male/female brass connectors, one on the inside, one on the ouside and the seal is made by a copper washer on each side. I cranked the connectors until the washers were squashed then tested the seal with dishwashing detergent while distilling water. No leaks. The pressure cooker is stainless and holds 10l. I used 10ml copper tubing throughout.".

[ErnieV]

If you're using Brass, it needs to be lead free

[Rafe Hollister]

Meatball,
I think everyone runs into the same issue at the start.

I connected a 1.5 inch copper pipe to the lid of my SS stock pot lid with the use of a 2"x1.5" threaded copper fitting. I cut a hole in the SS lid and ran the threaded end of my copper fitting up through the lid. I attached the lid to the fitting with a 1.5" locknut (electrical conduit section of the hardware store). I use a paper gasket on the inside of the lid. Only SS and copper are exposed to the product! I have a 1.5" female threadded fitting on the end of my comumn. I simply screw the column onto the fitting in the lid when it's time to assemble. Be advised... those 1.5" copper fittings are kind of expensive!

[Richard7]

Rafe, I noticed this was your first post, come on over to the welcome center and give us an intro! I like the advice you gave and it sounds like you would fit in well around here.

Meatball, what route did you decide to take?

[wombatvvv]

If you're using Brass, it needs to be lead free

This maybe a silly newb question, so apologies in advance. But would you expect a brass compression connector to contain lead?

The ones I have come with a copper compression bit that goes on the inside. As far as I can tell, the rest is brass.

This is the one I was going to use:

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_pro ... spx?page=3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Sealed on the inside with copper washers and perhaps a cardboard/PTFE gasket (as described on this forum).

[Richard7]

wombatvvv, From what I know yes, brass has lead, brass has to be pickled, tinned, or lead free brass (that has a very small amount of lead in it, the government gives it the OK for water but i still wonder if it is OK for High ABV alcohol).

[wombatvvv]

wombatvvv, From what I know yes, brass has lead, brass has to be pickled, tinned, or lead free brass (that has a very small amount of lead in it, the government gives it the OK for water but i still wonder if it is OK for High ABV alcohol).

Thanks for that info.

I did a little bit of research and found this on wiki:

The so-called dezincification resistant (DZR or DR) brasses are used where there is a large corrosion risk and where normal brasses do not meet the standards. Applications with high water temperatures, chlorides present or deviating water qualities (soft water) play a role. DZR-brass is excellent in water boiler systems.

The link I gave does specify DR Brass. I realise this doesn't mean it's certified for high ABV alcohol though... I'm going to have to rethink this connection too. This project is turning out to be a lot bigger than I initially planned.

[wombatvvv]

I've been going over this problem all day and it's doing my head in. In the process I've done a lot of reading about making flanges, etc., which all seems a bit above my pay grade to be honest (I had to Google, "flange" to see exactly what it was you were talking about). In any case, I'm still not sure how it goes together. Once you have a pipe with a flange in it, and a gasket, what's the process for putting it all together? Assuming the flange is not bolted onto the lid.

Another thought ... is there any problem with just using a cork bung and sticking the copper pipe through it? Cork is kind of hard to source, but I found a few places online where bungs and stoppers could be purchased and then drilled out.

As always, apologies if my questions go beyond "newb" and into "stupid". I'm not much of a handyman, although I'm willing to learn.

[ErnieV]

You could always drill the hole in the top of the pot big enough for the pipe. Then retain it inside the pot somehow (bash the coper over a bit on your pipe, drill a hole and put a nut and bolt though etc, {stainless of course}) then use flour / water paste or pasta paste to make your seal every time you run it.

[Usge]

This is just my personal opinion. Use of stock pots was common in the past because a) it was a readily available resource and b) there weren't really any comparable alternatives size wise and c) it was relatively cheap compared to commercial alternatives. Of course..if you start with a really cheap stock pot..you aren't going to get very far. The handles leak. The bottom burns. The lid is wonky (particularly after you cut it up). That's not to mention what you go through trying to figure out how to flange it or etc..to mount/attach your tube or column, or make a gasket or seal it up with clamps and dough and etc.

Today, you can buy a proper pot from 3 to 8 gal size..that is in the range that would fit on a stove top. They already have a 2" ferrule on the top that uses a tri-clamp connection. They seal up tight, they are solid and designed to hold weight, and the handles are welded on..not riveted. You can get them for 139 to 169 bucks and they are ready to go. Then you can spend your time building heads/condensers, etc..to go on it. I would venture to say...by the time you cut up two stock pots (the first one being too cheap to work)...bought flanges, parts, etc..that could fill a workbench trying to get the right parts...etc..and you end up with some permanently or semi-permanent setup..that can't be disassembled or broken down very far...and takes a moderate amount of prep to get it sealed up ready to run.....you will have spent similar amount of money...and wasted a lot of time..and have a collection of parts and pieces that only work with stockpots.

Just my opinion. And no offense to any of the stockpot still users out there. I know we have quite a few.

[wombatvvv]

You could always drill the hole in the top of the pot big enough for the pipe. Then retain it inside the pot somehow (bash the coper over a bit on your pipe, drill a hole and put a nut and bolt though etc, {stainless of course}) then use flour / water paste or pasta paste to make your seal every time you run it.

This is probably what I'm going to do I guess. At-least in the short-term. This project is taking more time and costing much more than what I had anticipated, and last night I couldn't sleep. My mind was set in a loop of trying to figure out how to connect the bloody tube to the lid. The way I see it I can use the dough method described, forget about it, and always make a more permanent connection down the track when I have the time/knowledge/money required.

[wombatvvv]

P.S. come to think of it ... is there any reason I just couldn't solder the seal instead of using dough?

This article seems to suggest that with the right preparation and flux, soldering SS to SS is not a problem:

http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=150" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I wouldn't need a strong seal anyway. Just an airtight one.

[ErnieV]

No reason whatsoever, just don't use leaded solder. Use silver solder instead.

[Gaztops]

I used a compression tank connecter to connect the copper tube to a stockpot lid with a home made PTFE washer on the inside.
I'm not sure but I think in America they are called bulk head connecters. These fittings are used for very hot water and was assured that the connecter was lead free. If using a stockpot make sure it is a good quality one, as people have said the handles leak and the lid is flimsy.

[wombatvvv]

I just thought I'd mention in this thread that I bought a 2" copper pipe fixing with a flange from the local plumbing store.

Pictured here:

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 6#p7039957

Probably much easier than making your own.

[Rafe Hollister]

Usge,
It was a very good point you made about the stock pots. I hadn't considered the handles and how they might not be air tight. I wonder if it's possible to solder them to make them air tight.

[Wasserwerks]

I welded a weld-in Swagelok compression fitting in the top of my stainless pressure cooker. I used 1/4" tubing and compression fittings. Also obtained a block off plug so I can stil use the pressure cooker for other purposes after I upgrade to larger equipment. I have a picture posted somewhere on here of when it was first completed. You could use a silver solder also, if you have an oxy-acetylene set up.

[Usge]

I wouldn't use 1/4 od tubing for your still...other than for a reflux condenser coil.

[Wasserwerks]

I wouldn't use 1/4 od tubing for your still...other than for a reflux condenser coil.

I know, I know.... I have room for improvement. It seems to work ok although slowly...

[Richard7]

Wasser, the point USGE was making was for safety. 1/4" could be blocked real easy. Don't make a pressure bomb.

[Wasserwerks]

Richard7,
Thank you, I realize this also. There is a pressure relief valve on the cooker.