Internal Heating Elements Wiring

[Wally]

Hello

So i have a kettle that has pre-welded NPT fittings for heating elements to screw into. I am planning on using two 120V 1500W elements with one hooked up to Router Speed Control.

Question 1: How do I attach the element to a power cord that I can plug in? (I have seen people using Metal electric boxes, is there any other way to do this? Like the following minus the adjustment knob -->http://www.milehidistilling.com/heater- ... 500w-115v/)

Question 2: What gauge power cord do I need to use?

Please help me to understand the exact step by step process here. I have minimal electrical experience

[NcHooch]

I can tell you this, you'll need two separate circuits to run those elements, and you'll want to be using 12 guage wire to hook everything up. ...and yes , you'll definitely want something on the element so cover up your connections.

[Wally]

...and yes , you'll definitely want something on the element so cover up your connections.

If someone could get even more specific that would be great. Is there any alternative to using a junction box? Every single guide that I have found about doing this completely glosses over this part.

Pictures would be really helpful. When explaining this to me imagine that I am Forrest Gump dumb

[sambedded]

I can tell you this, you'll need two separate circuits to run those elements, and you'll want to be using 12 guage wire to hook everything up. ...and yes , you'll definitely want something on the element so cover up your connections.

why 12 gauge? 1500 Watt at 120V requires 12A current. 16 gauge should more than enough.

[NcHooch]

this should help : http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements

[Wally]

Is there a cheaper jerry-rigged way to do this? I don't have access to all those tools in that guide

[Prairiepiss]

Connect the cable to the element with ring terminals. Then use heat shrink tubing to cover the whole thing. Remember to leave enough of the ground wire hanging out you can attach it to the boiler.

I would recommend 12 awg. 14 awg is only rated to 15 amps. And to be on the safe side 12 awg is rated to 20 amps.

I would also recommend you read through this thread I did on my duel elements on 110v with a router speed controller. Take note of why I used the elements I did. It mite be a good idea for you to do the same. And why they need to be ran on separate circuits.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=28179

[midcarolina]

Is there a cheaper jerry-rigged way to do this? I don't have access to all those tools in that guide

Are you Asking about a cheap way to cover the electrical connections?

[myles]

I can tell you this, you'll need two separate circuits to run those elements, and you'll want to be using 12 guage wire to hook everything up. ...and yes , you'll definitely want something on the element so cover up your connections.

why 12 gauge? 1500 Watt at 120V requires 12A current. 16 gauge should more than enough.

Remember that for continuous use you should not exceed 80% of the maximum current capacity of the wiring. I am using 3kW 240v elements (12.5A), but am using 20A circuits, 1 for each element.

[Wally]

Are you Asking about a cheap way to cover the electrical connections?

Yes

Connect the cable to the element with ring terminals. Then use heat shrink tubing to cover the whole thing. Remember to leave enough of the ground wire hanging out you can attach it to the boiler.

Talking about these correct:





What is the best way to go about attaching the ground wire to the boiler? Do i need to drill a hole in the thing and then put in a screw to attach it to? Hoping there's a way that doesn't involve putting a hole in the boiler

[midcarolina]

Use the ring terminals and shrink tubing.... then take a 4-6" piece of bicycle innertube slide over the wire and element secure to the nut/shoulder of the element with zip tye or hose clamp..... secure other end of inner tube to wire with zip ties.......

Very easy.....cheap redneck engineering...........

[Prairiepiss]

Yes the element should have two screw terminals. That the lugs will fit good. And you can get heatshrink in a large enough size to get over the element head. You mite need two sizes. Depending on how small the big stuff you get can shrink. You may need a smaller size to go between the big stuff and the cable. To take up some room.

What are you using for a boiler? I wouldn't drill through the sidewall where it could leak. You could get a ground clamp that would fit around the mount fitting for the element. Something that can be tightened down and make good contact to the boiler.

[Prairiepiss]

Like this.

[Wally]

You could get a ground clamp that would fit around the mount fitting for the element. Something that can be tightened down and make good contact to the boiler.

You talking about this:



or this?:



So I would clamp this ground clamp around the protruding NPT adaptor thats welded onto the boiler and then connect the ground to it. The boiler is similar to this one:



If that sounds good to you all thats what I'll do.


Also, I could only find 14 gauge cable at hardware stores, you're saying it has to be 12?

If I have to order from the interweb, does this work?: http://www.toolmarts.com/superiorelectr ... MgodOEQAog

[midcarolina]

The pic of the first ground clamp will work...... you really need to use 12 AWG wire....... the stores around you don't have wire you can buy cut to length? 12 Ga SO cord would be good..... you could aslo buy a 12GA extension cord and cut to your length

[midcarolina]

Also...... you asked earlier in the thread about doing it on the cheap... you could just put a regular SS hose clamp on the pipe and either cut the insulation back on the ground wire and put it in between the pipe and clamp or put the hose clamp on the pipe put a ring connector on the wire and install it on the hose clamps excess tab that extends out of the worm once clamp is tight........ many way's to do it main thing is to have a secure connection to the boiler...........

[Prairiepiss]

Yes the bolt down ground clamp was what I was talking about.

Not real sure where you are located? But any more its hard not to have access to either a home depot or Lowes. Both of which sell 12 awg cable by the foot. I've even seen 12 awg extension cords at wally world.

[Wally]

its hard not to have access to either a home depot or Lowes. Both of which sell 12 awg cable by the foot. I've even seen 12 awg extension cords at wally world.

I was only looking at pre-assembled wiring, I think I saw what you're talking about further down the aisle.

So I'll need to get one of those "plug adaptors" and connect it to the cable. Any specifications necessary for it?:



and now back to another wiring question:

I can tell you this, you'll need two separate circuits to run those elements

This means that I will need to have cable coming from two different areas from the circuit breaker and can't just use two different outlets in the same room right?

[Prairiepiss]

its hard not to have access to either a home depot or Lowes. Both of which sell 12 awg cable by the foot. I've even seen 12 awg extension cords at wally world.

I was only looking at pre-assembled wiring, I think I saw what you're talking about further down the aisle.

So I'll need to get one of those "plug adaptors" and connect it to the cable. Any specifications necessary for it?:
No just a standard 3 prong plug. Like the one you have pictured.

and now back to another wiring question:

I can tell you this, you'll need two separate circuits to run those elements

This means that I will need to have cable coming from two different areas from the circuit breaker and can't just use two different outlets in the same room right?

Correct you will need to find two plugins that are on different circuit breakers. One may have to be in another room. But one 15 amp circuit can't handle 30 amps of draw. So you need to use two separate 15 amp circuits. One for each element. Try to find something so they are close as possible. You don't want a real long run of cord. And all the more reason to go with the 12 awg. I would keep the 12 awg cable under a 20' run. If you need to go further then 20' you probably should step up.

When I had mine setup. I was able to do it with 10' of cord on each element. The shorter the better.

[Wally]

Should I return the two small high density 120V 1500W heating elements:



For two of these ultra low density 5500W 240V heating elements:

[Prairiepiss]

I would but that's me. I will give you a few reasons.

The bigger ones will be less prone to scorching any solids that may be in the wash. Yeast, grain bits, or whatever.

The bigger ones will also be a better amp rating for a 15 amp circuit. A 1500w element will draw 15 amps. That's right at the max of the circuit. If there are any lights or other stuff on that circuit. It could easily overload it. And normally you want to stick to 80% of the load capacity of a circuit. Now a 5500w element on 110 will be 1375w so that would be right around 13 amps. And much better suited for a 15 amp circuit.

They will also give you a more even heat within the boiler.

Now something to look at. Which happened to me. With those being wavy. The need room to spin when you screw them in. How I had my mounts configured. I couldn't get two of the wavey ones to screw in. I could get one. But the other would hit the one already mounted. And stop it from screwing in. So I used one of the wavey ones and one of the straight ones. They are called just low density. So I have one ultra low and one low. I used the low density one on the controller. And the ultra low density one was just plugged in. Reason being the ultra low one has more surface area so less prone to scorching. And the low density on the controller would more then likely not be on full blast all the time.

When I ran in pot still mode and only needed one element. I would use the ultra low density with the controller.

So check your boiler to see which ones will fit best. If you can get two of the ultra lows in it. That's what I would do. If you can't but can fit a straight one in it and a ultra low. That's what I would do.

Ace hardware sells both the lows and ultra lows. Home depot has the best price on the low density ones. And doesn't carry the ultra lows.

[Wally]

Okay think I have everything I need except the router speed controller / variac. Any suggestions for what I should get that will work right out of the box without any alterations?

[Wally]

The bigger ones will also be a better amp rating for a 15 amp circuit. A 1500w element will draw 15 amps. That's right at the max of the circuit. If there are any lights or other stuff on that circuit. It could easily overload it. And normally you want to stick to 80% of the load capacity of a circuit. Now a 5500w element on 110 will be 1375w so that would be right around 13 amps. And much better suited for a 15 amp circuit.

I ran into a problem, the 5500w elements are too long for the tank and I cant find any other 240V 5500W that are short enough. Do you think I can get away with two 120V 1500W ultra low density if I don't run anything else on those circuits?

[lustreking]

Question 1: How do I attach the element to a power cord that I can plug in? (I have seen people using Metal electric boxes, is there any other way to do this? Like the following minus the adjustment knob -->http://www.milehidistilling.com/heater- ... 500w-115v/)

Here's how I protected the wiring for my element. It was cheap and easy, it should be durable, and looks fairly professional.

[oakback]

Since this thread started, I installed electric elements in my keg. I went the no-weld route, using bolt-in elements. However, the only ones I could find locally where 4500w 220v, not 5500w (and straight, not wavy). Should I notice a big difference? Will it run a reflux column? I plugged both in (separate circuits), with water in the keg and got it to a decent simmer, but not a rolling boil. But I'm not sure if I even need it that hot...?

With the propane, I just assumed the reflux rate increased when I cranked up the heat and coolant supply, but never measured it in any way.

[Prairiepiss]

If you are running them on 110v that would be 1125w each. So 2250w total. That should be enough to run a 2" reflux column.

[oakback]

If you are running them on 110v that would be 1125w each. So 2250w total. That should be enough to run a 2" reflux column.

I ran it this weekend, it did alright. I didn't use the router controller though, I just ran both full power. I have plans to upgrade to 3" column eventually, any idea if that's enough power for 3"? (in a 15 gal keg, running no more than 10 gal at a time)