Let's see your controller box

[humbledore]

Very clean, nicely done! I hope mine will look half as good. Is that an example of the two pots in series to allow finer adjustment?

[sambedded]

Yes, two pots much more convenient for tuning.

[humbledore]

Now can you run that on 120 or 240V? Not to get off track but you mentioned this on another thread. I am not talented enough with electronics to pull that off.

[sambedded]

Yes, it can run on any input voltage in 80V -250V range.

[olddog]

Try this one for size, not finished yet, just waiting for a couple of warning lamps to arrive. The top section is for controlling flow to the dephlegmater, and the bottom section for mashing or brewing.

[Brendan]

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Try this one for size, not finished yet, just waiting for a couple of warning lamps to arrive. The top section is for controlling flow to the dephlegmater, and the bottom section for mashing or brewing.

Wow...so complex, but I bet it will make life a lot easier, or at least interesting.

Brilliant stuff OD

[Soft batch]

The exact opposite of olddog's controller. Serves it's purpose though. Controls both a 110 + a 220v outlets ( not run simultaneously).

[Cardinalbags]

They are both beautiful to me.

[humbledore]

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Try this one for size, not finished yet, just waiting for a couple of warning lamps to arrive. The top section is for controlling flow to the dephlegmater, and the bottom section for mashing or brewing.

I bow before its greatness. And yours sir.

[humbledore]

The exact opposite of olddog's controller. Serves it's purpose though. Controls both a 110 + a 220v outlets ( not run simultaneously).

perfectly functional. I am shooting for something like this.

[NineInchNails]

Just finished this morning. The three position switch allows me to switch from auto/PID to manual/variable. As its wired right now, the POT/variable control functions with the PID as well. The LED illuminated fan also serves as a cooling fan indicator light. I have a 3-wire RTD port and just for fun I also installed a K-type thermocouple port. The PID has a 16mm flashing buzzer alarm, an alarm kill switch and an indicator light.

[humbledore]

Wow, well done. I'll go out on a limb here and say that big stainless box was not cheap!

[NineInchNails]

No it's aluminum. I bought it on eBay for about $50. If it were stainless I don't think I would have been able to make all those cuts & holes without screwing something up.

[KeggerJoe]

This is my Controller. I used an old computer power supply. I took a computer heat sink that had an 80mm fan on it and screwed it into the spot where the power supply fan went.

I used These Controllers http://www.ebay.com/itm/140553985193 . it was 31.25 for two shipped to my door. It took about 13 days to get here.

I took a 25ft 20 Amp extension cord, cut in half, and used it to connect my controller to my element. I am running my 5000 watt element on 110. It will bring 10 gallons to a rolling boil in about 40 minutes.

A wall wart is powering my 12v fans.

I took the time to drill and tap the heat sink. I wanted to make sure if I needed to, I could take it back apart. I used quiksilver as a thermal compound. With the fan running, the heat sink is cool to the touch after an hour run.

I need to incorparate an Amp Meter and a female plug for the wall wart. These parts aren't on order yet, but should be soon.

Feel free to ask any questions.

[humbledore]

Is that a computer power supply housing? Interesting i have several of those laying around.

[Prairiepiss]

I hope there is a typo or two in this post.

I took a 25ft 20 Amp extension cord, cut in half, and used it to connect my controller to my element. I am running my 5000 watt element on 110. It will bring 10 gallons to a rolling boil in about 40 minutes.

A 5000w element on 110 would be 45 amps? Most circuits can't handle that? And I have never seen a 110 element that high in watts?

Assuming you ment 220v 5000w? Even then that would be approx 23 amps. So now the extension cord you used is under rated. If its smaller the 10 ga. I would replace it.

And if it was a 220v 5000w element running on 110v. That would only be approx 1250w. Which by the calculators would take approx 181 minutes to heat 10 gal.

So the only logical answer would be 220v 5000w. Even though they are usually 5500w or 4500w. That would be approx a 45 min heatup time. But as stated above. The wires are small.

[Odin]

Here's pictures of the new casing & interior of our new power management module.

Odin.

[Prairiepiss]

Show-off. LOL

[Odin]

Sorry ... couldn't help myself!



Odin.

[Cardinalbags]

That is super clean....

[Odin]

And don't get me started on what she can do ...

Odin.

[KeggerJoe]

I am running 110, I am running two elements. I meant what I wrote.

You are correct about them being 5500 Watt though.

[humbledore]

I won't get you started Odin but I have to say, a laser-cut logo on your box cover just might take the prize. However this is an amateur competition only!

[Jimbo]

Here's mine. No frills. Not too pretty. 2 ea cheap chinese 10000W SCR's, 2 cheap chinese voltmeters and a fan ripped off an old PC. Fed off a dedicated 50A breaker at 240V. Drives 2 5500W Camco ULWD elements.

[humbledore]

The classic comversion thread that got me going. Good one Jimbo.

[humbledore]

Here's an update on mine, it's not wired up just yet. Haven't decided if I'm going to place an analog meter above the controls yet.

[Odin]

No it's aluminum. I bought it on eBay for about $50. If it were stainless I don't think I would have been able to make all those cuts & holes without screwing something up.

Aluminium and booz don't get allong well.

... just kidding!

That looks really, really great, NineInch! Congrats!

Odin.

[Theo]

Here's an update on mine, it's not wired up just yet. Haven't decided if I'm going to place an analog meter above the controls yet.

I did not mount anything on the lid of the box. That way I could position all of the wiring & not disturb it when putting on the lid. Otherwise it would be like sitting on a suitcase to get it shut & hope it will still work.

[humbledore]

Ha, good approach Theo. I am wiring mine up right now and it is a spaghetti mess! Good thing it will be hidden.

[sw_reijnders]

here is my controller
still under construction