alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

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BCJ67CHEVY
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alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by BCJ67CHEVY »

Im starting to build a alembic inspired one. But my question is, is 1" diameter enough off the top? Also is it possible to bend or curve 1" hard copper? I was hopping if I use a wood template and some heat??
It is a 17.5 gal boiler and the copper top is roughly 1/3 the size.
boiler3 (600x800).jpg
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pounsfos
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by pounsfos »

for a boiler that size, I would recommend AT LEAST 2', what are you heating it with gas or electric

if electric what size element
BCJ67CHEVY
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by BCJ67CHEVY »

It's heated with 5500 watts for warm up and then hopefully under 2000w. 2" seems kind of big, how long would I have to run 2" before I switch to smaller size? I see the column stills with 2" columns, but I guess I thought that was since it was a column still.

Thanks for the input guys..
BCJ67CHEVY
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by BCJ67CHEVY »

I saw on the parent site the area about sizing, but this appears to apply to reflux stills, http://homedistiller.org/theory/refluxdesign/your" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow . I don't see a calculator for a pot still..
Thanks for the help.
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by Prairiepiss »

If it were me. I would take a piece of 2" cut a slice of pie out of the side. And form it into a cone. Down to 1" or 3/4". Then come off it with a 1" or 3/4" pipe bent like a swan neck.

But 1" would work.

In order to bend hard pipe. You will need to aneal it. A little heat won't do it. You will need a good amount of heat.
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BCJ67CHEVY
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by BCJ67CHEVY »

Thanks Prairiepiss.
So if I were to come straight out the center of the top with a 2" 90deg elbow, then to a 2" 45deg downward, then neck down to 1" for about 12", then to 1/2" for the worm? I don't have any 2" pipe so if I can get away with elbows/fittings it would help. Does starting off with 2" help quite a bit with the speed/heat that the still can run??
So to aneal the pipe i would have to get cherry red right? Would I have to keep it cherry red while it is bending or just to initially aneal it?
Thanks guys for the info..
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by Prairiepiss »

Whether 2" helps or not. On a pot still. Is a big debate. With many opinions. That are driven by different motives. So you will have to look through those discussions and come up with your own opinion.
Both sides have good reasons. But generally no one can look past their reasoning to see the big picture.

I will just say. I would prefer a larger pipe section coming out of the pot. Reduced down as you go.

Yes red hot. Let it cool then bend. You may need to do it more then once. Don't rush it. Take your time.

Elbows and other fittings work. Not always the best looking solution. But very functional.
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by BCJ67CHEVY »

Thanks for the reply Prairiepiss,
I agree that the larger size will help, finding the sweet spot will be the challenge.
Can 2" pipe be bend to a 90 and then downward at 45 easily? I don't really like the look of the fittings either, but the simplicity helps too.
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by Prairiepiss »

2" can be bent. But it is not easy. And more then likely you would need to use a pipe bender. There are places on the net. That sell 180 deg radius bent 2" copper. That could be cut at the angle you wanted. And soldered in place.

But after seeing on your other thread. That it already has a 1" adapter coming off the top. I think I would just go with the 1". The onion dome would serve much the same purpose as using 2". And 1" could easily be bent into a nice swan neck.
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by BCJ67CHEVY »

I think that is what I will do then. I think the 1" stuff I could bend after anealing, I guess we will find out.
Thanks for the info and insight.
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by Prairiepiss »

Don't try to bend it in to tight of a turn. Go slow. And you should be fine. Maybe fill it with something to hold its shape. And help keep it from flattening out. Like sand or salt. There are many threads about bending coils around here. The same principals hold true for any tube bending.
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by BCJ67CHEVY »

Thanks,
Sand is what I was going to try. The 90 deg or 180 deg turn at the beginning will be the fun part, thankfully I will be using around a 6" radius so that should help some..
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by SouthpawStiller »

Like prairiepiss said annealing will help make it bend easier. But I've had real good luck puttin a spring over the section of pipe I was bending. Never done it on anything bigger than 3/4" tubing tho. It does a good job of keepin it from kinkin and would be a lot easier and lighter than fillin the tube up with sand. Make sure to bend it slow also.

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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by just sayin »

Watched Youtube films on making brass instruments. They filled the brass tube sections with hot liquid pitch or fill with soapy water and freeze before bending.
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Re: alembic arm diamter question and bending hardline

Post by BCJ67CHEVY »

Thanks guys for the info, I will hopefully try this weekend.
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