I've done a lot of research into this but I just want to make sure this is what I need before I buy it. I'm building a 60ltr boiling vessel to do 50ltr washes with a 3000w immersion element. Would this controller do the job without any rewiring or bypassing as I not the greatest when it comes to electrical http://www.fasttech.com/product/1177000 ... ming-motor" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Well, your element is close to the capacity of the controller. You can get the same thing off ebay but they have them for 10Kw. That would give you plenty of buffer. These things will get hot if you push them too hard. I am running this at 110V. Can't say what 230V would do but it is rated 220V so my guess is it would work.
I have to ask however, if you are running such a large boiler, what size of column are you using? Before we even get to size of column, 3000W will be really slow on the initial heat up for starter with such a large volume in the boiler. There is a calculator on the parent site for estimating heat up time based on the volume in the boiler and the element wattage.
Now as far as column diameter goes, on my 2" rig, I can put about 2800W into it during an extended reflux run. If you are running a 3" or 4" column, then 3000W may be a bit on the low side to feed a larger beast.
You might try searching around for a Camco 5500W 240v Ultra Low Watt Density Water Heater Element like shown below. That controller should have no problem running it and you'll have more power to the boiler.
Another option would be to run multiple smaller heating elements. One could be rigged to an on/off switch and the other could be rigged to your controller. It might just be easier and more efficient to simply run one bigger heating element.
Cardinalbags wrote:That is the same as the basic controllers posted numerous times on this site. It is a triac based controller.
Camco 5500W 240v Ultra Low Watt Density Water Heater Element
Here is a link to a discussion that is of interest: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... Controller
I have to ask however, if you are running such a large boiler, what size of column are you using? Before we even get to size of column, 3000W will be really slow on the initial heat up for starter with such a large volume in the boiler. There is a calculator on the parent site for estimating heat up time based on the volume in the boiler and the element wattage.
Now as far as column diameter goes, on my 2" rig, I can put about 2800W into it during an extended reflux run. If you are running a 3" or 4" column, then 3000W may be a bit on the low side to feed a larger beast.
Hi Cardinalbags, I'm building a 2" boka reflux and will mostly be doing sugar washes but I want to make a pot head conversion for fruit mashes. From what I have researched so far a 3000w element would do the job, or am I better to upsize to the Camco 5500W 240v element that NineInchNails recomended?
NineInchNails wrote:You might try searching around for a Camco 5500W 240v Ultra Low Watt Density Water Heater Element like shown below. That controller should have no problem running it and you'll have more power to the boiler.
Another option would be to run multiple smaller heating elements. One could be rigged to an on/off switch and the other could be rigged to your controller. It might just be easier and more efficient to simply run one bigger heating element.
Thanks NineInchNails thats cheaper than the 3000w ss element I was going to buy Might go with bigger is better I think.
A lot of people use that 5500W element. I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work for you. If you run the calculations you'll find that it will give you a faster heat-up time. Since it is long, rippled and fold-back, it will put out a lot of heat without scorching your wash unlike other shorter elements. Your controller can easily turn it down as needed to maintain the level of power you need.
Im using the same board for controlling the 2nd 3kw element in my beer brewing kettle which maintains a rolling boil for upto 90minutes. the 1st element is on 100%.
the heatsink provided is pityfull. i lobbed on an old pc cpu heatsink and fan and included a dc powerbrick to power the fan.
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